Phase Linear

Northwinds said:
Hmmmm... I wonder if I would really be able to hear how the headroom makes a difference since Sally can destroy my CV's by herself. To experience the headroom, I need speakers that handle significantly more power becasue Sally is not even breathing hard when she shuts down the highs and mids. I am sure the headroom on Sally is far higher then the rated output in microsecond instances, is this a correct assumption Lee? Reserve headroom peaks could spike near double or more rated output with the bigger reserve power caps right ?
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Just a sidenote related to the CV's. I ended up bypassing the CB's on mine, as yep.. they too were being shut down by a WOPL. I've had WOPL'd 700's going on "as much as I can stand level" (YMMV) since then, and haven't blown them. True believer that it's going to be the clipping on less worthy amps that'll chew up drivers, versus having more power available, but clean and not constrained.
 
Northwinds said:
The powers there to do it with a 400 also Bro, I have had the woofs cracking momentarily on my CV's but prudently turned it down before VC damage. Sally can easily blow these E-712's

On a side note,not sure what Jer is doing with the stuff in Blackie but maybe you can do a deal for the stuff to upgrade yours to the latest Quasi version. I bet you will change your tune at least somewhat.I know the 700s have way more headroom but getting that headroom in my speakers is going to present a challenge without breaking something and it won't be the 700 LOL
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Full rewire/conversion Ron. Beefy caps, pl14 rev D driver, backplanes, BNBB (new term.. big nasty buss bar), and 96/95's for outputs. Might see about what is needed to move that AC for the DCP, too. (haven't looked at the 400 version of Don's board, but I think it too is doable). Plus Lee's donating new working meetz for ya.
 
jbeckva said:
Just a sidenote related to the CV's. I ended up bypassing the CB's on mine, as yep.. they too were being shut down by a WOPL. I've had WOPL'd 700's going on "as much as I can stand level" (YMMV) since then, and haven't blown them. True believer that it's going to be the clipping on less worthy amps that'll chew up drivers, versus having more power available, but clean and not constrained.
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Jer, how do you bypass the circuitbreakers with the CV's, maybe I should look into that option while I am hunting some big honking floorstanders. I see JBL's at the fleamarket at least once a month
 
jbeckva said:
Full rewire/conversion Ron. Beefy caps, pl14 rev D driver, backplanes, BNBB (new term.. big nasty buss bar), and 96/95's for outputs. Might see about what is needed to move that AC for the DCP, too. (haven't looked at the 400 version of Don's board, but I think it too is doable). Plus Lee's donating new working meetz for ya.
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Maybe you can do a deal with Jason for Blackie's guts? Not sure if you already had plans for that stuff already though. I am thinking his Quasi needs some help for him to truly appreciate Bertha, she can be so much more with the better Quasi components and tricks

I am so stoked that Blackie is getting upgraded thanks to you kind folks! Been watching the monster section for updates but I knew you were busy building your badass beauty. Have you named her yet?
 
Northwinds said:
Jer, how do you bypass the circuitbreakers with the CV's, maybe I should look into that option while I am hunting some big honking floorstanders. I see JBL's at the fleamarket at least once a month
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The CB's have two connections on the back.. in and out. I just soldered a wire between the two...

Disclaimer.. not endorsing it nor supporting LOL... different speaks and circumstances, perhaps. YMMV... known to cause heart attacks, diabetes, strokes, man-boobs and death.. :mrgreen:
 
Skynyrd77 said:
Yeah good idea Ron!! Let me know jer
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I really don't end up with much. Just the point to points / sockets, 410 drivers and 6 of the NPN outputs since they're replaced with PNP's (the 95's for the 96's). The RCA410's would be worth something, and to a lesser degree the 96's but the actual point to point wiring bundles not so much. If the bundle needs rewiring, it's best to keep all that the original IMHO and just replace the resistors and diodes one by one. A socket or two might be replaced if needed, but generally avoided as well.
 
jbeckva said:
I really don't end up with much. Just the point to points / sockets, 410 drivers and 6 of the NPN outputs since they're replaced with PNP's (the 95's for the 96's). The RCA410's would be worth something, and to a lesser degree the 96's but the actual point to point wiring bundles not so much. If the bundle needs rewiring, it's best to keep all that the original IMHO and just replace the resistors and diodes one by one. A socket or two might be replaced if needed, but generally avoided as well.
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I was referring more the control board since Jason's is an early Rev A and what is needed to make it work right so he gets Blackie's sound out of his Quasi

I will take a gander at the CV's Jer but the developing manboobs thing has me sort of thinking to leave well enough alone LMAO
 
I would think that fully rectified AC would provide over 100vdc once smoothed by the caps. Seems like a lot of stress on a line too... Maybe powered up with a variac ?
 
Phase Linear Phanatic said:
(Warning: thread hijack) You seem to like your coffee Pure Brew? I think Im on Phoenix too much because every morning when I make coffee; I'm reminded of your screen name. This is in my cabinet........

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i really don't know why I chose pure-brew coffee filters for my avatar but it must have seemed like a good idea at the time lol. But I was thinking of yours when I turned on the beast.

@lee, the only time I got the heat sinks to warm up was when I was shaking the house with some electronic bass. Got that high pitch "squeeeeeeeeeeeeele" after a few minutes and turned it down. Went back to "quality" visits with it.
 
Pure_Brew said:
I would think that fully rectified AC would provide over 100vdc once smoothed by the caps. Seems like a lot of stress on a line too... Maybe powered up with a variac ?
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No center tap on the ac line, so you have 1/2 of 120 times 1.4 there's a rectified voltage..
 
laatsch55 said:
Something weird going on with your ac there guy...
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I think it was due to everything plugged into the Belkin at the time.

I don't think you need a center tap, just 4 diodes?
 

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Srill have to have a ground reference, but the AC ground would work....
 
I had a big relay in the 200c that had an annoying hum, so I built a transformer-less DC supply from scratch to shut it the hell up. It would normally work off 120ac, but using DC of course gives no cycle. The caps would charge up enough to throw the switch, then settle down to about 12vdc, which was enough under test to hold it closed. If the amp was left on during a power outage, the relay would of course release, but since the switch had to be off to get the caps charged again, then it wouldn't accidentally come back on if the power came back.

I could be wrong, but if you are only rectifying half the wave, then you'd multiply by .707 and get 84 volts DC from 120AC. But if your full wave, then that would be 120vac x 1.414 = 170vdc (approx). Correct?

It was kind of fun to learn, but the mods a diyaudio locked the thread. Something about hooking anything up to mains without a transformer was too dangerous for them to support, and people dying was bad for their reputation.
 
Well , now I'm gonna have to rig up a BR and some caps, be right back...
 
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