PL400 Series II WOPL Quasi Control Board

Sunnbobb

Sunnbobb

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Hi kids, I just finished assembly of a WOPL Control Board Version G for use in a Quasi setup. I thought I'd post a picture to see if anyone spots any issues before I go forward with installation. Thanks in advance for your eagle eyes.441201912_10231998890625117_5309861014402280682_n.jpg20240506_041230[1].jpg
 
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You didn't line up all of your screw heads...:eek::eek::eek:1714995110087.png

But on a serious note, is it just a reflection of something in the solder or is is a lack of solder on some of your joints, for example...? I'm hoping it is just a reflection as you can see the same in the nuts but then again some of the holes look a little "empty" and could use a little more solder.
1714995279734.png
 
Joe. Should the 3 wires to the bias transistor be tightly twisted, or doesn't it matter?
A question I've been meaning to ask for a long time.
 
Curious why the screw heads should be on bottom. I reversed them so I could get a socket on the nut... ps thanks for checking things out!
 
Sunnbobb said:
Curious why the screw heads should be on bottom. I reversed them so I could get a socket on the nut... ps thanks for checking things out!
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You should not need a socket on the nut, once you put an internal tooth lock washer on top of the TO-220 tab followed by a nut, the turning of the screwdriver will tighten the nut without the need for any sockets. Try it, you will see.
 
Gepetto said:
You should not need a socket on the nut, once you put an internal tooth lock washer on top of the TO-220 tab followed by a nut, the turning of the screwdriver will tighten the nut without the need for any sockets. Try it, you will see.
Click to expand...
ok, but still wonder why it matters? Curious mind here.
 
Sunnbobb said:
ok, but still wonder why it matters? Curious mind here.
Click to expand...
Minimize scuffing off of the solder mask around by the washer and nut. Once you scuff the green solder mask off, bare copper gets exposed right underneath. The only tinned areas of the board are those that do not have solder mask on them, around holes and such. You will note the screw head is just about the same size as the pad on the board. That is the reason, maximum longevity of your finished product over the years.
 
Gotcha. I appreciate the explanation, and something I can be aware of in other electronic endeavors. BTW, your color diagrams of hooking up the board in a former pl36 configuration are very helpful.
 
Dianne, the series II 400, is being a spoiled Princess. It has an issue. Firing it up, everything goes as planned. Then, after about 20 seconds of idling, The Output relay shuts down. If I try a restart, the Relay lights up for a brief moment and does not energize. If I wait an hour or so, I'm back to 5 seconds of idling, then after that, the brief flash on/off thing happens.

Here is what I know:
Voltage supplied 118V
Filter caps L83.5V R83.4
PL13-20 WOPL Board voltage 11L-12L 165V
Bias L/R .360 holds steady
VR L15.23 R15.38
R128 L R 11Ω
LED lights on light board are proper

DC Offset (J1-1 & J2-1 on WA Output Relay) L .7VDC R .7VDC
Relay J3-1 83VDC J3-3 59 VAC
Notes: Inputs disconnect/reconnect no difference
Replaced output and driver transistors, populated board, unpopulated board no difference.

Suggestions and berating are equally appreciated..
 
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What are output conditions when the DC protect relay trips?
 
George S. said:
Joe. Should the 3 wires to the bias transistor be tightly twisted, or doesn't it matter?
A question I've been meaning to ask for a long time.
Click to expand...
There were three… so I braided mine…
 
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