pioneer sx1080 help...

gene french said:
you guys are fantastic!!!!
finished cleaning the rest of the switches...had to add another wire to another....but its all good...
rebundled the wires ... slowly reassembled checking after every screw!!!
lol...listening to john lee hooker!!!
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Sweet set up Gene. Did you build the speakers yourself ?
 
J!m said:
Replica Prop Forum is pretty good but many are guarded due to the thieves…
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Took me a second to think on that one and even checked the forum out a bit. Now after a visit and thinking about it I can see how they would, could should be somewhat guarded. I am showing that site to my Daughter. She is in Miami right now working a con.
 
VSAT88 said:
Sweet set up Gene. Did you build the speakers yourself ?
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yes sir...i did all of this in the late 70s until my kids had more need for the money...lol
now that i am retired...i wanted to finish what i started so many years ago...i had a lot of pioneer gear...bic turntable...disc players...the ones the size of an lp...equalizers...tapes...etc....
not really interested in recreating those days....i gave away my vinyl collection to nephew....along with the tapes....
just wanted a dac preamp to stream music....
i went to parts express .... they have so much documentation....and bought the speakers that i needed to get what i was looking for...
it is a 15" woofer rated at 200 watts with a sensitivity of 91db at 1 watt at 1 meter...goes down to 20hz before dropping off.....i knew i wanted front vent as bass reflex are more efficient then sealed box...used sub box pro to design a box with the correct volume...and optimized to be resonant at 24 hz...all of that can be controlled by the box...rather than account for the other speakers volume in the woofers...i built a smaller box....the mid is a 6" rated at 100 watts...no worries as the freq goes up the power peters out...the mid needs no special box...but almost all tweeters are sealed units....so it was natural...i wanted the mtm configuration so the tweeter would be ear level sitting on the couch...the sensitivity of the mid and tweeter were very close....within 1 db of the woofer....so that your speakers each project about the same volume at a certain voltage...if i remember right...i set this up with a calibrated mike at 2.83 volts at 1 meter...basically 1 watt at one meter....i used xsim for the crossover points according to the data sheets of my speakers...fdr files...or maybe frd???...and bought them in components from parts express too for my custome crossovers
these speakers cross over at 400hz and 4500 i believe...i forget sometimes....cabinets are 1" mdf with a steel all thread through the center to keep the box from flexing...i have grafts at different setups until i found what i liked....the crossovers are outside of the boxes to make it easy to make changes...
i exported the data from the audio program to excel to print out the grafts....there is no such thing as flat...but, it does look pretty nice...within a few db from 20 to 20k....i am very happy with them...i did research them for a while before i pulled the trigger....if anybody is interested...i have documentation somewhere i can share....these should handle the pl400 without problems...you dont want to push the envelope because it only takes a watt of distortion to destroy speakers....i would bet money the phase linears and preamps were being pushed beyond their design limits when a lot of the damage to speakers was done....even though i did order the wattsabundant speaker protect board for mine...lol...
my wife and i listen to music most of the day....one of our greatest joys...i am sure there are a lot of guys here that are doing the same thing...
thanks for asking....hope i wasnt too long winded...
 
Hell naw no such thing as long winded far as I am concerned. Lots of data goes into making a speaker. I ain't too tough on doing any cabinet work so I stick pretty close to vintage (early 90's and back) speakers and just re fit them. I really like the x over on the outside of the cabinet that's a great way to go if you asked me. That way you can tweek any time you want.
 
i did find this graph...this was a 20 to 20k sweep over 3 seconds played at 1 watt 1 meter into a dayton audio calibrated mike....
the polarity of the midrange was reversed....as it produced the flattest response....all trial and error...as there is not any one answer....
this IS NOT professional equipment...but, it suits my needs....and was a lot of fun...
btw...it has made all of the rats move over to the neighbors farm...too noisy over here....lol
 

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gene french said:
i did find this graph...this was a 20 to 20k sweep over 3 seconds played at 1 watt 1 meter into a dayton audio calibrated mike....
the polarity of the midrange was reversed....as it produced the flattest response....all trial and error...as there is not any one answer....
this IS NOT professional equipment...but, it suits my needs....and was a lot of fun...
btw...it has made all of the rats move over to the neighbors farm...too noisy over here....lol
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HA ! That's how we do it. And above you say that you and your wife listen to music all day together, same here whether she likes it or not. HA , nah, just kidding she is happy that I am happy and I am happy if she is . No WAF shit going on here.
 
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after a few days of playing the sx...pushing it to 105 decibals for a few days....i feel secure in the work that we have done on the box...
no scratching...no hums...dead silent between songs....not really happy with the light kit i bought...too dim...i did reorder some bulbs...
other than that....i am very happy....i will put the 1080 and 400 side by side on my stand...with switches on the inputs outputs so i can compare...
thanks all, especially mr fixit man!!!
so happy to have this behind me...and was able to recover the unit...
take care guys...will repost here when i change the 3 dial lights...
 
I got the lights for my 880 Forman eBay seller that also sells used parts. They are exact replacements and stock brightness.

I’m not a fan of LEDs in this old gear.
 
Incandescent.... For all of my vintage stuff with the exception of Phase Linear. Joe has those light kits and they work.
 
VSAT88 said:
Incandescent.... For all of my vintage stuff with the exception of Phase Linear. Joe has those light kits and they work.
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The incandescent bulbs put out ALOT of heat and don't last for shit. LED's are cool and cut down on power used. Even the LEDs now come in flavors that match the color of the incandescent bulbs, ya just need to do some homework.
 
It’s kinda like the acrylic crystals on my old watches. Sapphire is better, but it just doesn’t have the same “vibe” as the old plastic crystal does. It’s important for the identity of the watch.

LEDs are better in every way (excepting diffusion pattern) but the heat that comes with the light is part of the charm to me too.
 
J!m said:
It’s kinda like the acrylic crystals on my old watches. Sapphire is better, but it just doesn’t have the same “vibe” as the old plastic crystal does. It’s important for the identity of the watch.

LEDs are better in every way (excepting diffusion pattern) but the heat that comes with the light is part of the charm to me too.
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Someone wears Rolex.
 
good morning....
the sx1080 seems to be in great shape...sounds great...
just need to change out the 3 lights on the dial illumination...the new ones are just too dim...
i have new ones coming....and the originals if i am not happy with the new leds...
i just collected a little data...want to share it...
thanks for everyone that helped me get this back in service....especially mark the fixit guy!!!
could not have done it without you!!!
J!m said:
And Tudor.

Seiko (with sapphire) today. View attachment 64130
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garmin fenix 5
 

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