phase linear 400
- Thread starter gene french
- Start date
I use it on every electrical connection in my truck, but it does exactly what your asking- exclude environment while not causing shorts through conduction.
If it’s very hot you may want to find a thicker variant. I use Molykote 111 for watch gaskets (and plasma gun o-rings) and it is much more viscous (thicker) than the typical Napa grade stuff.
If it’s very hot you may want to find a thicker variant. I use Molykote 111 for watch gaskets (and plasma gun o-rings) and it is much more viscous (thicker) than the typical Napa grade stuff.
I'm not one to ask for help, follow the recommendations, fix the problem, and never report back. after trying and replacing just about everything, I still kept coming up with the left channel working perfectly, and the right channel with 0 bias. So I threw it off the back of a truck... Nah, I decided to change out Q8 and Q9. Literally my last attempt. I changed Q8 and.. no change. Changed Q9 (2n1305) and came up with a sweet .355 on the right channel! Ring the bell, drinks on the house! and thanks everyone for your insights, Christina's ghost has been exorcised! Now back to normal WOPL programing.
I replaced the transformer in my wopl pl400 today. Powered up great. Well, almost great. The left channel is working perfect, the right channel bias and output test points are showing 82V on the bias test points as well as the output test point. I think I'll take a break and tackle that next. I wonder how much copper is in a used transformer? LOL
Hey Gene,
Have you tried Stabilant 22 for your switch connections?
We have had success with this "coating" fixing the connections in some PEV battery connections.... Differential metals from the battery cells and buss bars ! Couldn't see that issues comming ! Expensive stuff but does the trick.....
https://www.dewitzdiagnosticsolutions.com/review/stabilant-22a-snake-oil/
M
Have you tried Stabilant 22 for your switch connections?
We have had success with this "coating" fixing the connections in some PEV battery connections.... Differential metals from the battery cells and buss bars ! Couldn't see that issues comming ! Expensive stuff but does the trick.....
https://www.dewitzdiagnosticsolutions.com/review/stabilant-22a-snake-oil/
M
Yeah Gene.
Got rid of the contractor grade power strips.
Put in two Furman PS-8R Series Two.
They are the 15 amp models.
There is a 20 amp pro version with the 20 amp plug, but I went with 15 amp because I have two available 15 amp outlets.
They advertise "power conditioning", but I'm a skeptic. I'd go with a couple massive isolation transformers instead.
I bought them because of the sequential equipment power on function.
They have a jumper across the back, so they are slaved to each other.
Eight outlets across the back and one in front of each unit.
Press the master bright orange rocker switch on, and the front outlet and rear outlets 1+2 become hot.
Press the sequential start switch on either unit (they're slaved with a jumper on the back) and rear outlets 3+4 on both units become hot.
Stand back, and in 5 seconds (a internal adjustment) outlets 5+6 on both units become hot.
Wait another 5 seconds, and rear outlets 7+8 of both units become hot.
System startup is complete.
Preamp, MiniDsp, tuners, turntable, are powered on first in both units outlets 3, 4, 5, 6. That's eight outlets in two Furmans.
The four amps, a 700 Pro WOPL, two 400S2 WOPL, and a 300S2 get powered dead last in the sequence on outlets 7+8. That's the last four outlets on the two Furmans.
Shut down is the reverse.
Hit the power sequence button, amps get turned off, then everything else in sequence.
No pops, no power surges. Proper start up and shutdown every time.
Now the bad.
These old Furmans are still bringing good money on the Bay.
They'll need recapped at a minimum due to age and the fact they came with no name cheap caps.
They're loaded with relays, two SIP resistor packages, a timer IC, a opamp, handful of transistors.
I got the cheapest units I could find that weren't totally scraped up.
One just needed a recap, the other needed a recap and the timer and opamp IC.
Couple months back I replaced both power rocker switches. Exact replacements are available from Digikey or Mouser.
I really like them, a must have with a four way active system.
That's appx 1800 watts in 8 channels going to 8 drivers. Nothing is in-between the amps output and the drivers. No caps or resistors, just Monoprice wire.
Power strips just wouldn't cut it anymore.
Got rid of the contractor grade power strips.
Put in two Furman PS-8R Series Two.
They are the 15 amp models.
There is a 20 amp pro version with the 20 amp plug, but I went with 15 amp because I have two available 15 amp outlets.
They advertise "power conditioning", but I'm a skeptic. I'd go with a couple massive isolation transformers instead.
I bought them because of the sequential equipment power on function.
They have a jumper across the back, so they are slaved to each other.
Eight outlets across the back and one in front of each unit.
Press the master bright orange rocker switch on, and the front outlet and rear outlets 1+2 become hot.
Press the sequential start switch on either unit (they're slaved with a jumper on the back) and rear outlets 3+4 on both units become hot.
Stand back, and in 5 seconds (a internal adjustment) outlets 5+6 on both units become hot.
Wait another 5 seconds, and rear outlets 7+8 of both units become hot.
System startup is complete.
Preamp, MiniDsp, tuners, turntable, are powered on first in both units outlets 3, 4, 5, 6. That's eight outlets in two Furmans.
The four amps, a 700 Pro WOPL, two 400S2 WOPL, and a 300S2 get powered dead last in the sequence on outlets 7+8. That's the last four outlets on the two Furmans.
Shut down is the reverse.
Hit the power sequence button, amps get turned off, then everything else in sequence.
No pops, no power surges. Proper start up and shutdown every time.
Now the bad.
These old Furmans are still bringing good money on the Bay.
They'll need recapped at a minimum due to age and the fact they came with no name cheap caps.
They're loaded with relays, two SIP resistor packages, a timer IC, a opamp, handful of transistors.
I got the cheapest units I could find that weren't totally scraped up.
One just needed a recap, the other needed a recap and the timer and opamp IC.
Couple months back I replaced both power rocker switches. Exact replacements are available from Digikey or Mouser.
I really like them, a must have with a four way active system.
That's appx 1800 watts in 8 channels going to 8 drivers. Nothing is in-between the amps output and the drivers. No caps or resistors, just Monoprice wire.
Power strips just wouldn't cut it anymore.
