No impact...View attachment 59364
One thing I JUST noticed on the relay board is in my previous build, (shown) I left C3 in place. On THIS board, it appears to be missing from the circuit. Any correlation to what's happening?
No impact...View attachment 59364
One thing I JUST noticed on the relay board is in my previous build, (shown) I left C3 in place. On THIS board, it appears to be missing from the circuit. Any correlation to what's happening?
Understood....No impact...
C3 should be installed but has no impact on the issues you are reporting. C8 and C9 are the capacitors that are in series with the Zoebel resistors and also have no effect if left in as long as R1 and R2 are not installed.Are you thinking that it has nothing to do with it as it was related to the Zoebel Network and we don't need that anyway due to the White Oak boards providing the network?
I didn't see a circuit diagram in Don's installation procedures, only a BOM. Perhaps one is provided if you buy it and are assembling it but that wasn't ME. So C3 may have nothing to do with it as C3, C8 and C9 are unpopulated. That lines up with the BOM. All I am looking for are differences between a working amp and a malfunctioning one, and like George did, I left C3 there last time and no issues. Just trying to narrow the possibilities down....
View attachment 59366
C3 should be installed but has no impact on the issues you are reporting. C8 and C9 are the capacitors that are in series with the Zoebel resistors and also have no effect if left in as long as R1 and R2 are not installed.
You know George, I thought about that today too. In fact I might have used em in the last build. Remember a lot of my work emulates yours. I did NOT use them here. But I looked at the driver board and it doesn't look like those two spots trace anywhere so I thought "nawwww couldn't be that"? Could it? Lemme try that however......please stand by......Dave, do you have the nylon insulating washers on both sides of the control board mount studs/long screws? Looks like KEPs nuts, ground loop, hum, if that solder pad is continuous with the boards ground plane. Would check mine, but on the road working. The other guys would know.
Measure 0 Volts at both outs. If you want to count 4.5mV, well that's about what I did get at them "technically".........The black wire was - DC feed to the board, that didn't hurt anything..
What is your meter telling you for noise on the Speaker outs?
You can fix your OCD concern by running the red and white wire from the DCP to the meter board laced to your grey ground wires and over to the meter board. likewise for the black ground wire coming in from the left, it can be routed with the other grey ground wires and over to the meter board. The central orientation applied to when you were running them from the backplane boards. But you have moved them.Alright so Joe gave me a laundry list of things to try. I made all of them. Obviously the meter issue was solved by moving the wires to the DCP binding posts. (Again, didn't have to do that in the last build and had no issues) but that's what I did. So solved that issue. The hum is still there even after re-routing the way Joe directed me to. Lucky I bought 2 wire kits when I only needed one. Allowing myself the extra wire need to make these modifications.
So I had my father bring my other build to me today. He was over here watching me make the changes. I did NOT make the changes to the meters on the one he brought. He said a big flat NO to that. Doesn't want to mess with something that works. So I used it to look at my own work from last year and sure enough, all was the SAME as what I just wired on THIS amp. So No wiring departures on my part. I hooked that other amp up and also heard the hum. Both builds had it. But only if you put your ear literally up to the speaker. Otherwise it's inaudible. I guess it went un-noticed in my last build? Either way, my father just said "not a big deal, I can't hear it from across the room anyway" and since both do it, he was willing to live with it.
We tested it on my PL700B system. Swapped one of the 700B's out on the highs with the 400 since he's bi-amped and that's what it's gonna be driving. It Jammed perfectly. Attenuation switch worked same as the other amp so all is now solid. It just bugs me that I didn't have that meter issue on that last build and those went right to the backplanes but this one did? Owell. It 's fixed and it works. I sent him home with both amps as he was happy and that's all that matters.
I personally preferred the look of the wire routing in my last build to this one. Namely because I had less 'bundles' run but here I made more just to separate AC and DC more effectively. Doing so changed nothing sonically, but made for a less appeasing wire job to an OCD guy like myself.
Below are some pics I took before I sent him home with the goods. The FIRST pic is the old build. It has Joes blue/purple/white pigtails for the attenuation switch. The others are the current build. I'm not sure how comfortable I'd feel doing a 700B build after all this? Might be awhile yet. But when I do, it won't be for someone as important as my father. So I'll be doing ALL the board population myself. We'll see how that goes when the time comes. I have 12 amps to do sooooo the funds will come from my retirement account probably and that's not too far in the distant future. Thanks for everyone's help on this!
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Thanks Lee! And Joe! i TRY to do the best work I can to my abilities. (Though they be limited). It was a joyous moment to send my dad home packing two powerful full-montied WOPL400's. I loaded them into his van and told him to enjoy them as he drove off into the sunset. He will be hooking them both back in-line tommorrow. I told him to call me and let me know how it sounds. He was ecstatic as it was.Looking good Dave!!