Ed Blackwood's Heatsinks Phase Linear 700B

Yeah Dennis, some pretty cool shit. And I can access said toys 24/7. Don't get no better than that.
 
Heatsink Serial numbers 5 & 6 are done.....
 

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Sweet looking. Yes, jealous of the shop you get to work in, for sure.

I like that you made them larger this time for increased cooling. For most people/applications, this eliminates the need for cooling fans at all. Looks way cool too.
 
87-1/2 degree Mark. Done with a hand drill took awhile to get the right pressure and rotation speed to get em to come out smooth.

Gibsonian, I'm in Phoenix (az) dO YOU WANT THE CABBAGE CASE????
 
Gibsonian said:
Sweet looking. Yes, jealous of the shop you get to work in, for sure.

I like that you made them larger this time for increased cooling. For most people/applications, this eliminates the need for cooling fans at all. Looks way cool too.
Click to expand...



i CAN MAKE THEM bigger..............................
 
Son=in=law's computer. Don't remember my password, so I signed him up.
 
A new member, who care how we got him... I should have said 90 deg or 120 deg, I'm thinking of the angle from vertical but the tool bit nomenclature considers both sides of the hole, I just forgot. Yeah, I try to do chamfers on the drill press sometimes and it almost works better to do them by hand with a variable speed drill. Of course, you could just slap them down on the magnetic chuck and cut them on the Bridgeport, right? Ha!
 
Good catch Jer, it might NOT have been ME!! And in your palce not being sure can cause a lot of damage. Dr., did you think a new member could sound like ME??
 
mlucitt said:
A new member, who care how we got him... I should have said 90 deg or 120 deg, I'm thinking of the angle from vertical but the tool bit nomenclature considers both sides of the hole, I just forgot. Yeah, I try to do chamfers on the drill press sometimes and it almost works better to do them by hand with a variable speed drill. Of course, you could just slap them down on the magnetic chuck and cut them on the Bridgeport, right? Ha!
Click to expand...

Mark, I'll do the next batch with the little Ryobi drill press and set the depth gauge and try to be consistent with the width of the chamfer itself. The biggest problem is the mechanical layout of the TO-3 outline. Even transfer punching from an original 700B HS is iffy. If you don't have the transfer punches plumb and level it can be off enough to make a lead short. So i took measurements off the stock HS, and referenced everything from the SECOND tranny in the stack. not the driver but the first output. Why?? there was enough distance to get a good reading on the square and the driver is reversed from the outpts anyway. I took a small set of precision Lufkin dividers and scratched a small arc where the corresponding hole in the next output would be after scoring the vertical centerline of that particular row of holes.Where they intersected, it got a good centerpunch. After marking with the punch, I set a TO-3 base which had everything but the mounting plate removed and spotted it over the centerpunch marks to check for overall fit. If that was perfect we drilled em. Idid not do that on the first set of 2 and it took some reaming to get everything to line up and really messed with my sense of neat. The driver was marked with the dividers for the mounting holes and with a transfer punch through the TO-3 mounting plate and checked against an original XPL-909 mounting plate which also had the can and die removed. It really is pretty involved, but it ain't rocket surgery, but it does need to be repeaable and consistent. This procedure gives me that.
What would I bulid some for money wise??? There is 216.00 worth of plate copper for the 7-1/4 inch by 6 inch deep ones. After the last 2 of the second set I think 3 hours per set of 4 will be awfully close to what I would have in them.
 
For manual hole drilling I use an optical punch - this uses a magnifiying lens to line up the guide base. The magnifier is then pulled from the base and replaced by a punch. The punch is tapped with a small hammer and the accuracy is around 0.001" or so it is claimed. I beleive that is not far from reality.

View attachment 177-optical center punch.pdf
 
Hemi69bee said:
87-1/2 degree Mark. Done with a hand drill took awhile to get the right pressure and rotation speed to get em to come out smooth.

Gibsonian, I'm in Phoenix (az) dO YOU WANT THE CABBAGE CASE????
Click to expand...

Nope Lee. I can pack it safely I am certain but thanks anyway. If you make it over to Blythe tell my dad hello and have a Christmas drink with him will ya?
 
Those copper fins of handmade heat holding hapiness should fetch $500-$600 I would think; there are lots of pre-1982 pennies in there.
 
Takes two cents to make a penny nowadays...


Scott, how far is Blythe??
 
mlucitt said:
Those copper fins of handmade heat holding hapiness should fetch $500-$600 I would think; there are lots of pre-1982 pennies in there.
Click to expand...

Good. Should be a very limited market then.Even with very small mistakes the time can quadruple......
 
NavLinear said:
For manual hole drilling I use an optical punch - this uses a magnifiying lens to line up the guide base. The magnifier is then pulled from the base and replaced by a punch. The punch is tapped with a small hammer and the accuracy is around 0.001" or so it is claimed. I beleive that is not far from reality.

View attachment 7151
Click to expand...

Dennis, i have the transfer punch set, the 2 sizes of the "Econo-pic" but not the optical doodad. I like the premise the optical is based on though......
 
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