In one of the earlier builds I've done, I actually thought hmmm... make the paint scheme and fonts match the "WOPR" of which you speak. Too much like "NAD" tho...
The chip I am using is a LM3914, which yeah if I floated pin 9 changes the "mode" to "dot mode".. basically the single traveling LED like the cylons LOL. This is definitely better - more color, more light.
hmm, now you have me wondering. I should dig up a datasheet on the Series II power meter driver chip and see if it has a similar option. Maybe I can modify mine with small work. I can tell people it's an exclusive feature that came only on the Pro model or something.
How about adjustable meter responsiveness with a couple of extra dials/switches? Like have an option for how long you want them to remain on for while they measure the output level.
hmm, now you have me wondering. I should dig up a datasheet on the Series II power meter driver chip and see if it has a similar option. Maybe I can modify mine with small work. I can tell people it's an exclusive feature that came only on the Pro model or something.
UAA170 IC.. Doesn't look good - no option other than LED brightness.
D2 Yep, I have a sensitivity adjustment on the boards but I am seriously thinking of bringing that "outboard". Make it a variable sensitivity control instead of the 0/-20 "two option" switch.
UAA170 IC.. Doesn't look good - no option other than LED brightness.
D2 Yep, I have a sensitivity adjustment on the boards but I am seriously thinking of bringing that "outboard". Make it a variable sensitivity control instead of the 0/-20 "two option" switch.
A couple small external box kits would be cool so people with WOPLs can position them where they like plus a controller box for LED adjustment. Would be great if you could solder the connections from the existing meters on PL's into the controller for an optional add on.
Plodding along here. Yeah guys, not as active on this stuff as I used to be, but this build here should be pretty dern good once done.
Here's the progress. Lee n Joe - I had a thought here about building everything up with the transformer "out", then reattach it and finish up. It seems like it'll be easier to mount the backplanes with just the chassis weight to worry about (and not a big hulking transformer throwing it's own weight around).
Anywhoo.. here's the latest.. adding my own lil touch with the "color code" heheh.
The instructions on the build say that the colors of the wires are not significant- but on a recent TV project, the wiring harness seemed to have the same color set:
I imagine this is an electronics industry standard of sorts.
The instructions on the build say that the colors of the wires are not significant- but on a recent TV project, the wiring harness seemed to have the same color set:
I imagine this is an electronics industry standard of sorts.
Umber is a natural brown or reddish-brown earth pigment that contains iron oxide and manganese oxide. It is darker than the other similar earth pigments, ochre and sienna.