Power transistor help

Gary, to me it looks like you're a little cold on your joints and ya might be moving off too soon because you believe you're gonna hurt components??
 
Gary, you asked about 400 S2 rack handles. They are 5" on center. The original ferrules are basically unobtainium, but cone washers are available on eBay. Check out my old post about 400 S1 handles and cone washers. These cone washers are a decent if slightly loose fit on original 400 S2 handles, and a nice fit on the aftermarket drawer pulls.
https://forums.phxaudiotape.com/threads/robust-series-1-rack-handles.9512/
 

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Gepetto said:
Gary
You will find it much easier to use 63/37 for electronics work. It is a eutectic formulation and is designed specifically for electronic assembly work. Also using the no clean flux types is preferred as the clean up is much easier than with rosin core solder. Kester 245 1.1% flux content is such a solder. If you switch, you will see a big difference in ease of soldering and cleanup.

The eutectic 63/37 has a melting point of 183C vs 190C for the non-eutectic 60/40
Click to expand...


Even though you like the no clean, some tech's like the rosin core solder. Just that little bit will help produce a nice joint. And, there is very little there so clean up is a snap. I recommend trying both types to see what works best. I won't use no clean cored solder.

If you have limited solder abilities, use the rosin cored solder. My boards clean up just fine with minimal effort. :)

And, thats a BIG yes on the 63/37 solder. Toss out the 60/40 guys. He never said what he has for an Iron. I asked that question earlier.
 
Yes, we need to know what you have for a soldering iron too. Maybe it doesn't have enough cajones.
 
gary33030 said:
I'm using a Weller WESD51 temp. controlled soldering station.
Click to expand...
50W is a bit on the light side for the PEM nut soldering task. The dwell will be longer to get the area heated up with 50W behind it.

FIne for the control board, it has less copper to wick the heat away from the solder joints.
 
Joe,

I already boxed up my backplane boards for shipment to your shop. In my excitement, I did not identifie myself inside of the box. Hopefully you were not expecting backplane boards from a bunch of people this week. Feel free to use my boards as a before and after on this forum, so others can learn from my mistakes. Also, I had installed the first roll of transistors, are the sil pads reusable?
 
gary33030 said:
Joe,

I already boxed up my backplane boards for shipment to your shop. In my excitement, I did not identifie myself inside of the box. Hopefully you were not expecting backplane boards from a bunch of people this week. Feel free to use my boards as a before and after on this forum, so others can learn from my mistakes. Also, I had installed the first roll of transistors, are the sil pads reusable?
Click to expand...


As long as you didn't reef on them but for 2 bucks, replace them.
 
gary33030 said:
Joe,

I already boxed up my backplane boards for shipment to your shop. In my excitement, I did not identifie myself inside of the box. Hopefully you were not expecting backplane boards from a bunch of people this week. Feel free to use my boards as a before and after on this forum, so others can learn from my mistakes. Also, I had installed the first roll of transistors, are the sil pads reusable?
Click to expand...

Hi Gary
Yours are the first so I won't have any problem mixing them up... :-)

Joe
 
George S. said:
Gary, you asked about 400 S2 rack handles. They are 5" on center. The original ferrules are basically unobtainium, but cone washers are available on eBay. Check out my old post about 400 S1 handles and cone washers. These cone washers are a decent if slightly loose fit on original 400 S2 handles, and a nice fit on the aftermarket drawer pulls.
https://forums.phxaudiotape.com/threads/robust-series-1-rack-handles.9512/
Click to expand...

I reverse engineered the ferrules and made a few for someone here. I can’t anodize them but I have a print.
 
e30m3mon said:
There is an anodizing shop in Bridgeport that I was going to approach for some parts.

https://ctanodizing.com/

Also this shop that electroplates steel
https://danburymetal.com/
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Skip all the work. You can order any size and material/style ferrules you need here. I even have my handles custom made here and the price is right. plus, you don't have the look of drawer pulls and closet door handles some have used. I have bags of these things.


Take your time and peruse this link. I have been doing business here for years. Have calipers, will travel.........

https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300521530/?searchFlow=results2products&KWSearch=handle
 
Everyone:

Let me set things straight on the handles. I bought a series 2 black face plate from white oak. Did not come with matching black handles. What is everyone doing? Spray painting?
 
If you want the handles and/or knobs a different color, they can be sent out for anodizing.
There are some sellers who do offer after-market black handles with the correct center to center spacing.
I would not recommend spray painting aluminum, if you want it to last. They could be powder coated as well
if that is more convenient. Just do your homework, before you send them out. Many companies do the bulk
of their business in Hard-Anodize industrial coatings, and this will limit your color selection. You do not need hard anodize for this application.
They may offer 5 different "blacks" as in Flat, Matte, Semi-Gloss, Gloss, and a Charcoal finish. That decision is up to you.
You may want to match the faceplate exactly or add a contrast with a gloss handle and knobs.
Many builders use the black faceplate and keep the original satin aluminum handles and knobs.
Hope that helps.
 
gary33030 said:
Everyone:

Let me set things straight on the handles. I bought a series 2 black face plate from white oak. Did not come with matching black handles. What is everyone doing? Spray painting?
Click to expand...

If you look at the link, you'll see that they make black anodized handles just like the Series II style. And, if you spray paint your handles, They WILL hold up if left to cure for 2 weeks before use. I have done a shit load. Yes, they will hold up.
 
Sending shit out for stripping and re-anodizing is expensive and a waste of time. You can buy new ones and if you are using a new face plate.... Your set. If you are using old face plate and it's not perfect, and your handles are not either, who cares. Some guys like the patina and I have sold many amps in original condition.
 
Been professionally painting cars and bikes for over 50 years.
With proper prep, and proper paint, yes, they could hold up. A shot from a rattle can won't.
Built many robots and automation machines, and we wanted a finish that was bright, durable and caught your attention
just before it smacked you in the head !!!! We always anodized aluminum.
 
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Vintage 700b said:
Sorry, been professionally painting cars and bikes for over 50 years.
With proper prep, and proper paint, yes, they could hold up. A shot from a rattle can won't.
Built many robots and automation machines, and we wanted a finish that was bright, durable and caught your attention
just before it smacked you in the head !!!! We always anodized aluminum.
I stand corrected.
Click to expand...


You'll be hard pressed to tell mine from piss can and the ones I air brushed. I have many amps out in the wild with both. They work. And yes, prep is king.
 
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