Derek92994's 700 Ser II White Oak conversion

And can the 0db/20db switch be bypassed for testing?
 
D2, I b worked late last night and am working early this AM, should only be 3 or 4 hours today, then we'll tackle it.
 
derek92994 said:
I just checked the two photos with the old and new light board, I have connected the wires correctly. Any wires that are the same color were numbered so the correct order was used when installing the new board.

Old Board:



New Board:




Which wires should I try swapping or is there something else I can do to troubleshoot this?
Click to expand...

Cannot really tell Derek as the wire colors are no give away to where they go.

Trace each wire to its origin and confirm.
PAD 1 goes to right channel output.
PAD 2 goes to the attenuator switch blue wire (this looks correct in your photo)
PAD 3 goes to attenuator switch ground, the crossbar orange wire between switch poles. (this looks correct in your photo)
PAD 4 goes to the ground bus bar between the 2 big capacitors.
PAD 5 goes to the attenuator switch yellow wire (this looks correct in your photo)
PAD 16 goes to left channel output.

PAD 14 goes to the AC transformer low voltage secondary
PAD 15 goes to the AC transformer low voltage secondary

Thus the wires you need to trace back are PAD1, PAD4, PAD16, PAD14, PAD15
 
Gepetto said:
Cannot really tell Derek as the wire colors are no give away to where they go.

Trace each wire to its origin and confirm.
PAD 1 goes to right channel output.
PAD 2 goes to the attenuator switch blue wire (this looks correct in your photo)
PAD 3 goes to attenuator switch ground, the crossbar orange wire between switch poles. (this looks correct in your photo)
PAD 4 goes to the ground bus bar between the 2 big capacitors.
PAD 5 goes to the attenuator switch yellow wire (this looks correct in your photo)
PAD 16 goes to left channel output.

PAD 14 goes to the AC transformer low voltage secondary
PAD 15 goes to the AC transformer low voltage secondary

Thus the wires you need to trace back are PAD1, PAD4, PAD16, PAD14, PAD15
Click to expand...

Thanks bud, I will get to this soon and report back =)
 
Yep, there is a slight problem with the wire ordering:

Pad 1 Goes here:




Pad 4 Goes Here:




Pad 14 & 15 Goes Here:




Pad 16 Goes Here:



So I should reposition these wires on the light board to correct?
 
I have figured the wires on pad 1 and 4 need to be swapped. I will wait for your confirmation to be sure this is correct.
 
derek92994 said:
Yep, there is a slight problem with the wire ordering:

Pad 1 Goes here:




Pad 4 Goes Here:




Pad 14 & 15 Goes Here:




Pad 16 Goes Here:



So I should reposition these wires on the light board to correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, PAD 1 going to chassis ground is an error. It looks like you have the wires going to PAD1 and PAD4 swapped on the light board end of things.
 
Yes!! We have meter action now!! Thanks so much guys. I will re zip tie the wires and button her up.
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
Derek, I got my pic out of the wire connections and it looks to be correct. Just verify with the multiMeter that the white wires you have going to pads 1, 4 and 15 are going to the right place. I only use white wire for grounds so it's easy to trace. The Attenuator switch is a BIG PROBLEM and they are impossible to clean or find new ones.

Pad 15 you have a white wire on and it should be one of your AC lines (14 and 15)
pad 4 you have a white wire on and it should be ground from the ground bar on the caps or star ground.
Pad 1 you have another white wire on and is your right channel input (pad 16 is left channel input)

It appears your attenuator is correct connection wise, (but may be dirty inside) does it always act FU or can you mess with the attenuator knob and get the meter to work corretly???


Perry
Click to expand...




Hmmmmm
 
Houston we have a problem. I was doing some work near the audio cabinet, pushing a PC towards the wall moving it back into place. Heard a pop come through the speakers followed by loud buzzing (like when you touch an interconnect). Switched the power off on the WOPL and another pop through speakers just as the switch was turned.

Components connected at the time were the P 3600 pre with a Nakamichi cassette deck via switch box. I don't know if something up the back was bumped connection wise, after checking the area this seems unlikely.

Powered the WOPL up and down a few times, relays only clicked once and meters would go crazy. This is with no input or speaker connections.

The fault which is reoccurring now is no relay click, just lights. About 30 seconds after power down meters peg then slowly go back down.
 
Check DC offset where wires go the input of the DC protect board.. Speaker wires. Each channel..
 
I think I figured it out, I see Ground markings, ok so I'm assuming the larger wires
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top