WOPL PL400

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calman46

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I'm back using my WOPL400 with McIntosh C33 and McIntosh XR16 ,B&O 4002.( All recapped etc..) There all getting along just fine(sounds great) . I can't warm up to LEDs on the 400 though, I may go back to the incandescent board.
 
calman46 said:
I'm back using my WOPL400 with McIntosh C33 and McIntosh XR16 ,B&O 4002.( All recapped etc..) There all getting along just fine(sounds great) . I can't warm up to LEDs on the 400 though, I may go back to the incandescent board.
Click to expand...
Off topic, but I am curious of which cartridge you are using with your B&O 4002 turntable.

Nando.
 
calman46 said:
I'm back using my WOPL400 with McIntosh C33 and McIntosh XR16 ,B&O 4002.( All recapped etc..) There all getting along just fine(sounds great) . I can't warm up to LEDs on the 400 though, I may go back to the incandescent board.
Click to expand...

Put in the warm white LEDs, looks amber glow like the original lamps. That is what I run in mine. Others like other colors, it is definitely a personal preference thing. Blue is the most popular by far but I cannot warm up to it.
 
Gepetto said:
Put in the warm white LEDs, looks amber glow like the original lamps. That is what I run in mine. Others like other colors, it is definitely a personal preference thing. Blue is the most popular by far but I cannot warm up to it.
Click to expand...
I can't get LEDs position correctly to light the dial . I got rid of the shadow bar but now the dial not getting lit up enough. Plus being really fussy doesn't help .
 
The note from the release notes provides the method for creating the best illumination

Use the nylon washers provided to space the Light Board off of the back of the meter such that the round body of the LEDs just kisses or is slightly off of the front plastic jewel lens. Getting the LEDs as close to the lens as possible without crushing or bending the LEDs or LED leads against the lens helps to maximize the light dispersion via total internal reflection against the meter lens inner surface. A dozen #6 x 1/16” thick washers have been provided for this purpose. Most applications require either one or two nylon washers stacked on each screw stud under the light board and above the meter case to get the recommended LED spacing. Put the last 4 nylon washers on top of the Light Board before installing the hex nuts provided to prevent scuffing of the PCB surface. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTS ON THE METER STUDS. A gentle tightening is all that is required.
 
my light board has warm white LED's I believe to be bright, so I got some amber film that I cut to fit between meter's and bezel's.
Gives the look of incandescent lights, witch is shown in my avatar.

I could have used any color...
 
silver_face said:
my light board has warm white LED's I believe to be bright, so I got some amber film that I cut to fit between meter's and bezel's.
Gives the look of incandescent lights, witch is shown in my avatar.

I could have used any color...
Click to expand...
Interesting, I ordered the soft blue mostly to try but thinking I may swap the LED’s for the soft white now that I acquired the 700... with your amber film it looks very original.
 
The warm white is most original and you do not meet an amber filter. For the clear white you do need an amber filter if you want that yellowish hue
 
this was the look before, I may have used the clear white, can not remember now
 

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calman46 said:
I'm back using my WOPL400 with McIntosh C33 and McIntosh XR16 ,B&O 4002.( All recapped etc..) There all getting along just fine(sounds great) . I can't warm up to LEDs on the 400 though, I may go back to the incandescent board.
Click to expand...
I was thinking the blue would go with my Mcintosh nicely. Any thoughts on the blue leds?
 
Tilly-Dr. Von Ron said:
I was thinking the blue would go with my Mcintosh nicely. Any thoughts on the blue leds?
Click to expand...
Lots of people favor the blue LEDs with the black aftermarket faceplates. I am more old school and prefer the original aluminum faceplates and the "warm white" LEDs, they really mimic the incandescent bulbs color, with no heat.
 
The LED's leave a shadow bar on the meter face of PL400. I did bend them straight out and it lowered the shadow to the bottom of the meter face.
 
Use the nylon washers provided to space the Light Board off of the back of the meter such that the round body of the LEDs just kisses or is slightly off of the front plastic jewel lens. Getting the LEDs as close to the lens as possible without crushing or bending the LEDs or LED leads against the lens helps to maximize the light dispersion via total internal reflection against the meter lens inner surface. A dozen #6 x 1/16” thick washers have been provided for this purpose. Most applications require either one or two nylon washers stacked on each screw stud under the light board and above the meter case to get the recommended LED spacing. Put the last 4 nylon washers on top of the Light Board before installing the hex nuts provided to prevent scuffing of the PCB surface. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTS ON THE METER STUDS. A gentle tightening is all that is required.
 
Maybe I have an early version of the board .The LEDs came with the leads bent @90 to fit up inside the meter. I have since straighten them and no more shadow bar . Just not as bright as the incandescent lamps.
 
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