I'm back using my WOPL400 with McIntosh C33 and McIntosh XR16 ,B&O 4002.( All recapped etc..) There all getting along just fine(sounds great) . I can't warm up to LEDs on the 400 though, I may go back to the incandescent board.
I'm back using my WOPL400 with McIntosh C33 and McIntosh XR16 ,B&O 4002.( All recapped etc..) There all getting along just fine(sounds great) . I can't warm up to LEDs on the 400 though, I may go back to the incandescent board.
I'm back using my WOPL400 with McIntosh C33 and McIntosh XR16 ,B&O 4002.( All recapped etc..) There all getting along just fine(sounds great) . I can't warm up to LEDs on the 400 though, I may go back to the incandescent board.
Put in the warm white LEDs, looks amber glow like the original lamps. That is what I run in mine. Others like other colors, it is definitely a personal preference thing. Blue is the most popular by far but I cannot warm up to it.
Put in the warm white LEDs, looks amber glow like the original lamps. That is what I run in mine. Others like other colors, it is definitely a personal preference thing. Blue is the most popular by far but I cannot warm up to it.
I can't get LEDs position correctly to light the dial . I got rid of the shadow bar but now the dial not getting lit up enough. Plus being really fussy doesn't help .
The note from the release notes provides the method for creating the best illumination
Use the nylon washers provided to space the Light Board off of the back of the meter such that the round body of the LEDs just kisses or is slightly off of the front plastic jewel lens. Getting the LEDs as close to the lens as possible without crushing or bending the LEDs or LED leads against the lens helps to maximize the light dispersion via total internal reflection against the meter lens inner surface. A dozen #6 x 1/16” thick washers have been provided for this purpose. Most applications require either one or two nylon washers stacked on each screw stud under the light board and above the meter case to get the recommended LED spacing. Put the last 4 nylon washers on top of the Light Board before installing the hex nuts provided to prevent scuffing of the PCB surface. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTS ON THE METER STUDS. A gentle tightening is all that is required.
my light board has warm white LED's I believe to be bright, so I got some amber film that I cut to fit between meter's and bezel's.
Gives the look of incandescent lights, witch is shown in my avatar.
my light board has warm white LED's I believe to be bright, so I got some amber film that I cut to fit between meter's and bezel's.
Gives the look of incandescent lights, witch is shown in my avatar.
Interesting, I ordered the soft blue mostly to try but thinking I may swap the LED’s for the soft white now that I acquired the 700... with your amber film it looks very original.
I'm back using my WOPL400 with McIntosh C33 and McIntosh XR16 ,B&O 4002.( All recapped etc..) There all getting along just fine(sounds great) . I can't warm up to LEDs on the 400 though, I may go back to the incandescent board.
Lots of people favor the blue LEDs with the black aftermarket faceplates. I am more old school and prefer the original aluminum faceplates and the "warm white" LEDs, they really mimic the incandescent bulbs color, with no heat.
Interesting, I ordered the soft blue mostly to try but thinking I may swap the LED’s for the soft white now that I acquired the 700... with your amber film it looks very original.
Use the nylon washers provided to space the Light Board off of the back of the meter such that the round body of the LEDs just kisses or is slightly off of the front plastic jewel lens. Getting the LEDs as close to the lens as possible without crushing or bending the LEDs or LED leads against the lens helps to maximize the light dispersion via total internal reflection against the meter lens inner surface. A dozen #6 x 1/16” thick washers have been provided for this purpose. Most applications require either one or two nylon washers stacked on each screw stud under the light board and above the meter case to get the recommended LED spacing. Put the last 4 nylon washers on top of the Light Board before installing the hex nuts provided to prevent scuffing of the PCB surface. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTS ON THE METER STUDS. A gentle tightening is all that is required.
Maybe I have an early version of the board .The LEDs came with the leads bent @90 to fit up inside the meter. I have since straighten them and no more shadow bar . Just not as bright as the incandescent lamps.