- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 75,030
- Location
- Gillette, Wyo.
- Tagline
- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
What We've All Been Waiting For--700 BP boards!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter laatsch55
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 75,030
- Location
- Gillette, Wyo.
- Tagline
- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
Over the top of course Lee. Tee down to the thermal cutout switches...
Turn south just after the end of the right channel board and head south to the AC business.
All DC routes take the southern route and lay along the bottom of the chassis, underneath the board connect wires.
Outputs are short and sweet staying away from the AC bundle and laced together to get to the output posts.
Turn south just after the end of the right channel board and head south to the AC business.
All DC routes take the southern route and lay along the bottom of the chassis, underneath the board connect wires.
Outputs are short and sweet staying away from the AC bundle and laced together to get to the output posts.
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 75,030
- Location
- Gillette, Wyo.
- Tagline
- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 75,030
- Location
- Gillette, Wyo.
- Tagline
- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
When you are ready to install the boards, here is how you do it...
Ensure the 4 round spacer screws are in place but not tightened down. They should be able to move within the hole but not so loose that they are flopping around.
First put in all 48 of the shoulder washers...
Then get the boards all cleaned up, joined and ready to install...
Next position the board set over the round posts and the screw through the bias transistor strap and lower into place...
Next drop a 1/4" ID, thick washer on the upper round post screws, then put on a #6 flat washer and a 6-32 hex nut, finger tighten to put pressure on the board.
This will hold the boards into place and allow you to flip over and final position them...
View attachment 12174
Flip the chassis over and it should look like this with all 48 shoulders protruding equally through the chassis...
Put four 6-32 in the diagonal corners as shown to locate the boards in the proper position.
Tighten the round spacers in this position. This locks the location of the boards to the chassis...
Simple...
Ensure the 4 round spacer screws are in place but not tightened down. They should be able to move within the hole but not so loose that they are flopping around.
First put in all 48 of the shoulder washers...
Then get the boards all cleaned up, joined and ready to install...
Next position the board set over the round posts and the screw through the bias transistor strap and lower into place...
Next drop a 1/4" ID, thick washer on the upper round post screws, then put on a #6 flat washer and a 6-32 hex nut, finger tighten to put pressure on the board.
This will hold the boards into place and allow you to flip over and final position them...
View attachment 12174
Flip the chassis over and it should look like this with all 48 shoulders protruding equally through the chassis...
Put four 6-32 in the diagonal corners as shown to locate the boards in the proper position.
Tighten the round spacers in this position. This locks the location of the boards to the chassis...
Simple...
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 75,030
- Location
- Gillette, Wyo.
- Tagline
- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
Lee
I am going to add the recommendation to ream the holes in the 12 mounting screw locations from the original 0.234" (A drill) to 0.242" (C drill) The chassis and heat sink holes are line to line which should never be the case. PL did not do that on the PL400, they had the HS holes oversize and let the chassis control.
With the C drill, it is possible to line up all the bosses and have it drop into place. With the original size, it is impossible. Do the reaming on a drill press and use a sharp C drill.
I am going to add the recommendation to ream the holes in the 12 mounting screw locations from the original 0.234" (A drill) to 0.242" (C drill) The chassis and heat sink holes are line to line which should never be the case. PL did not do that on the PL400, they had the HS holes oversize and let the chassis control.
With the C drill, it is possible to line up all the bosses and have it drop into place. With the original size, it is impossible. Do the reaming on a drill press and use a sharp C drill.
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 75,030
- Location
- Gillette, Wyo.
- Tagline
- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 75,030
- Location
- Gillette, Wyo.
- Tagline
- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
These are what I've used to hold the boards in place before the heatsinks are added. I use 2 like you do, he same catty corner pattern. These bushings are deep enough to swallow the boss and being hard rubber have some "Squish".
Nav, the nylon screws faired very well, maybe a little melt on one...
Nav, the nylon screws faired very well, maybe a little melt on one...
Attachments
You can probably force it Lee but what is the point of that. The 2 aluminum alloys are different and will expand and contract at slightly different rates.
With individual sockets you can get it to go with some work, with a unified assembly, it is nearly impossible without skiving the edge off of one or more insulators.
With individual sockets you can get it to go with some work, with a unified assembly, it is nearly impossible without skiving the edge off of one or more insulators.
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 75,030
- Location
- Gillette, Wyo.
- Tagline
- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof