What We've All Been Waiting For--700 BP boards!!!!!!!!!

laatsch55 said:
hOW YA GETTING EAST TO WEST WITH THE ac jOE?
Click to expand...
Over the top of course Lee. Tee down to the thermal cutout switches...

Turn south just after the end of the right channel board and head south to the AC business.

All DC routes take the southern route and lay along the bottom of the chassis, underneath the board connect wires.

Outputs are short and sweet staying away from the AC bundle and laced together to get to the output posts.
 
Then get it out there Joe!! Bout time we saw the the other Joe!
 
Gepetto said:
Over the top of course Lee. Tee down to the thermal cutout switches...

Turn south just after the end of the right channel board and head south to the AC business.

All DC routes take the southern route and lay along the bottom of the chassis, underneath the board connect wires.

Outputs are short and sweet staying away from the AC bundle and laced together to get to the output posts.
Click to expand...

When you are ready to install the boards, here is how you do it...

Ensure the 4 round spacer screws are in place but not tightened down. They should be able to move within the hole but not so loose that they are flopping around.

First put in all 48 of the shoulder washers...
PL700_2 002.jpg

Then get the boards all cleaned up, joined and ready to install...
PL700_2 004.jpg

Next position the board set over the round posts and the screw through the bias transistor strap and lower into place...
PL700_2 006.jpg

Next drop a 1/4" ID, thick washer on the upper round post screws, then put on a #6 flat washer and a 6-32 hex nut, finger tighten to put pressure on the board.
This will hold the boards into place and allow you to flip over and final position them...
View attachment 12174

Flip the chassis over and it should look like this with all 48 shoulders protruding equally through the chassis...
PL700_2 008.jpg

Put four 6-32 in the diagonal corners as shown to locate the boards in the proper position.
PL700_2 010.jpg

Tighten the round spacers in this position. This locks the location of the boards to the chassis...

Simple...
 
Gepetto said:
When you are ready to install the boards, here is how you do it...

Ensure the 4 round spacer screws are in place but not tightened down. They should be able to move within the hole but not so loose that they are flopping around.

First put in all 48 of the shoulder washers...
View attachment 12177

Then get the boards all cleaned up, joined and ready to install...
View attachment 12176

Next position the board set over the round posts and the screw through the bias transistor strap and lower into place...
View attachment 12175

Next drop a 1/4" ID, thick washer on the upper round post screws, then put on a #6 flat washer and a 6-32 hex nut, finger tighten to put pressure on the board.
This will hold the boards into place and allow you to flip over and final position them...
View attachment 12174

Flip the chassis over and it should look like this with all 48 shoulders protruding equally through the chassis...
View attachment 12173

Put four 6-32 in the diagonal corners as shown to locate the boards in the proper position.
View attachment 12178

Tighten the round spacers in this position. This locks the location of the boards to the chassis...

Simple...
Click to expand...

Sorry but the important attachment isn't showing up for some reason...

PL700_2 007.jpg

Ahhh...there the little bugger is.
 
laatsch55 said:
Beat me to it Joe..
Click to expand...

Lee
I am going to add the recommendation to ream the holes in the 12 mounting screw locations from the original 0.234" (A drill) to 0.242" (C drill) The chassis and heat sink holes are line to line which should never be the case. PL did not do that on the PL400, they had the HS holes oversize and let the chassis control.

With the C drill, it is possible to line up all the bosses and have it drop into place. With the original size, it is impossible. Do the reaming on a drill press and use a sharp C drill.
 
Gepetto said:
Lee
I am going to add the recommendation to ream the holes in the 12 mounting screw locations from the original 0.234" (A drill) to 0.242" (C drill) The chassis and heat sink holes are line to line which should never be the case. PL did not do that on the PL400, they had the HS holes oversize and let the chassis control.

With the C drill, it is possible to line up all the bosses and have it drop into place. With the original size, it is impossible. Do the reaming on a drill press and use a sharp C drill.
Click to expand...

Now I know why every original socket had a fractured boss on it...not a good design practice.
 
OK, got a drill press. No way with the tolerance of your hardware is there enough wiggle room eh?
 
These are what I've used to hold the boards in place before the heatsinks are added. I use 2 like you do, he same catty corner pattern. These bushings are deep enough to swallow the boss and being hard rubber have some "Squish".


Nav, the nylon screws faired very well, maybe a little melt on one...
 

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laatsch55 said:
These are what I've used to hold the boards in place before the heatsinks are added. I use 2 like you do, he same catty corner pattern. These bushings are deep enough to swallow the boss and being hard rubber have some "Squish".


Nav, the nylon screws faired very well, maybe a little melt on one...
Click to expand...

That is exactly the idea Lee.
 
laatsch55 said:
OK, got a drill press. No way with the tolerance of your hardware is there enough wiggle room eh?
Click to expand...

You can probably force it Lee but what is the point of that. The 2 aluminum alloys are different and will expand and contract at slightly different rates.

With individual sockets you can get it to go with some work, with a unified assembly, it is nearly impossible without skiving the edge off of one or more insulators.
 
Gepetto said:
Lee
I am going to add the recommendation to ream the holes in the 12 mounting screw locations from the original 0.234" (A drill) to 0.242" (C drill) The chassis and heat sink holes are line to line which should never be the case. PL did not do that on the PL400, they had the HS holes oversize and let the chassis control.

With the C drill, it is possible to line up all the bosses and have it drop into place. With the original size, it is impossible. Do the reaming on a drill press and use a sharp C drill.
Click to expand...

To be clear Lee this is the Heat Sinks that the holes are reamed out on, not the chassis. They are much easier to do on the drill press.

I kiss the inboard end that faces the chassis with an 82 degree countersink. Clean the parts well after reaming out the holes, you do not want metal filings.
 
Thanks for the clarification, I'm a countersunk kinda guy ya know...
 
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