What dia. Kester no-clean solder you like to use; aka the solder shoot out at OK corral

[laatsch55]

thanks, I had read your posts Joe about the Kester no-clean solder but never saw the dia. listed. Any reason for the difference between you and Lee? I know not a big diff between 0.025 and 0.020. Getting list together for an order for parts and other supplies.

By god the memory wasn't that bad... .020 and .062 for the big stuff..

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I DO use a "NO CLEAN" flux, but I still use the .031 rosin core 63/37

Since you need to clean (even after using "No Clean"), I prefer the extra benefits of the nice shiny solder joint that the rosin brings with it. Dewetting is a minor issue with the rosin.

Did you also know that you are supposed to trim your leads BEFORE soldering the joint??? Do a quick demo for yourself. Take a piece of the lead you are going to solder, and place it on the pad and trim the component lead the thickness of the piece you put on the pad (you can lay your nippers on the piece so you can gauge how close to trim the component lead). after trimming the component lead one thickness of the lead itself, appy flux and flow the joint (especially the exposed copper of the lead you just cut), Now, compare the sexiness of that joint compared to a solder joint you flowed prior to trimming the lead. You can see the stresses applied to the solder joint just caused by trimming not to mention the exposed copper left by trimming after soldering.

 

[AngrySailor]

 

[grapplesaw]

I used Perry’s magic flux cleaner today for the first time. 50% acetone and 50% of 99% pure alcohol.
bice fast and clean boards. Just a slight haze but no residue. I give it two thumbs up

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I used Perry’s magic flux cleaner today for the first time. 50% acetone and 50% of 99% pure alcohol.
bice fast and clean boards. Just a slight haze but no residue. I give it two thumbs up

Glen, I think my next purchase will be an ultrasonic cleaner. I can then cut my use of chemicals down by 90%. They say you can use water in them and it will take all of the flux off. I have used one before, many years ago and they work excellent but we used "Trike" in them not water. I'll get one and do a comparison to see if they work with the H2o......

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I was looking at this 10 Liter one but maybe a 6 would do.... Heated too

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10L-DIGITA...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

[grapplesaw]

I was looking at this 10 Liter one but maybe a 6 would do.... Heated too

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10L-DIGITA...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I wait for your results. Happy shopping.

 

[J!m]

I'm looking at those to clean my records...

 

[wattsabundant]

I use mostly Kester 63/37 .031 water soluble. Rosin is a mess.

 

[orange]

Don't you mean 'at the RoHS Corral'?

Okay, I'm stepping back from the PCB with my hands up...

 

[Wheel-right]

I DO use a "NO CLEAN" flux, but I still use the .031 rosin core 63/37

Since you need to clean (even after using "No Clean"), I prefer the extra benefits of the nice shiny solder joint that the rosin brings with it. Dewetting is a minor issue with the rosin.

Did you also know that you are supposed to trim your leads BEFORE soldering the joint??? Do a quick demo for yourself. Take a piece of the lead you are going to solder, and place it on the pad and trim the component lead the thickness of the piece you put on the pad (you can lay your nippers on the piece so you can gauge how close to trim the component lead). after trimming the component lead one thickness of the lead itself, appy flux and flow the joint (especially the exposed copper of the lead you just cut), Now, compare the sexiness of that joint compared to a solder joint you flowed prior to trimming the lead. You can see the stresses applied to the solder joint just caused by trimming not to mention the exposed copper left by trimming after soldering.

Thanks for that one WOPL, going to have to practice, practice, practice on that.

 

[Skywavebe]

I just ordered a case of Kester 66 I think it is called but 44. It is .031 and I use a lot due to the Japanese stuff I work on is always lacking.
Kester 24-6337-0027 | Sn63/Pb37 Solder WIre, 44 Rosin, .031 diameter, 66 Core, 1 lb.
I have used this stuff for many years- it used to be as low as $7.00 a roll. Those were the good old days.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I just ordered a case of Kester 66 I think it is called but 44. It is .031 and I use a lot due to the Japanese stuff I work on is always lacking.
Kester 24-6337-0027 | Sn63/Pb37 Solder WIre, 44 Rosin, .031 diameter, 66 Core, 1 lb.
I have used this stuff for many years- it used to be as low as $7.00 a roll. Those were the good old days.

The 66 tells you how much flux is in the core (66=3.3%)

That's RA (Rosin Activated) That is TOO HARSH.... You need RMA (Mildly Activated), it's not as corrosive. RA cleans the joint the best because it's the most corrosive (Abietic Acid)....

Rosin flux is, unsurprisingly, made up primarily of rosin, which is extracted from the sap of pine trees, and contains the active ingredient abietic acid (other acids may be present as well). There are three types of rosin flux — rosin (R), rosin mildly activated (RMA), and rosin activated (RA) — each of which have a different level of activators, the agents enabling the flux to deoxidize and clean.

Rosin flux is used for cleaning already clean surfaces, and has the advantage of leaving no residue behind. Rosin mildly activated flux is used on dirtier surfaces and will leave more residue than ordinary rosin flux; after using rosin mildly activated flux, you use a flux cleaner to cleanse the surface. Rosin activated flux cleans best, but will leave a significant amount of residue behind — because of this, rosin activated flux is rarely used.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

Even though the residues of the flux is supposedly not conductive or non corrosive (we're talking the residue after soldering), at a certain temperature (like 160-200 degrees?), it DOES become corrosive and conductive so cleaning the boards is super important and if you had a catastrophic failure and your amp or whatever got hot.... You can be asking for trouble. Yeah, rosin can be a mess but the solder joints with no clean flux look half as good as a Rosin flux joint.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

Water Soluble Flux

Water soluble flux, also called organic acid flux, is typically made from glycol bases. The downside to using water soluble flux is it often bonds with the circuit board itself or other metal surfaces, and as a result will require thorough cleaning. In addition, water soluble flux tends to be a more aggressive oxidizer than is usually required. Organic flux is more reactive than rosin activated flux and is thus a stronger cleaner. (Note: You can also find inorganic water soluble flux, which is even more powerful than water soluble flux.)

No-Clean Flux

No-clean flux is a mixture of organic resins — aside from rosin — mixed with certain inorganic agents. The behaviors and properties of no-clean fluxes can vary significantly depending on their respective chemical composition; for example, some no-clean fluxes leave a tremendous amount of residue, which is unattractive, though it is no threat to the surface. You can, however, find no-clean fluxes that won’t leave residue behind. The main advantage of using a no-clean flux is that you won’t need to clean the surface after soldering, because they do not affect electrical conductivity.

 

[Skywavebe]

I have used this stuff for many years and never had a previous job come back with corrosion or any conductive issues with it. A large company like Kester knows what they are doing and had come across the right formula maybe years ago. I have some joints even with this solder that do not like to bind and then a more aggressive flux is used but in the end the solder bonding to the component lead well and the foil trace is not ever a problem. Too many scare tactics are used to steer people away from accepted use materials and I for one do not find anything wrong with what I am using or I would not bought a case. If in some cases I have to clean boards due to lots of dirt and to get rid of brown flux marks which are probably there previously, I use Denatured and it all cleans off wonderfully. A slight rinse with Isopropyl will get rid of any while residue the Denatured leaves although it is only for looks as the while residue has never resulted in any issues. The largest issue I see that was not selected correctly is that cockeyed glue they put on large capacitors which is not at all needed. I have had to remove the component and get rid of the glue and under the glue you can see silver staples- jumpers starting to react and turn green (Brown glue) the Yellow glue which is worse ate transistor and zener diodes leads away in a Teacam 38 I was working on that lost the counter display. This then make it a worrisome consideration as to when this will result in other 30 series decks or even other deck that use that yellow glue- It is already known to conduct when humidity is high in the power section of the Teac V900X. All that garbage glue must be removed. If these guys would learn to solder their parts in properly there would never be a need for this glue.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I have used this stuff for many years and never had a previous job come back with corrosion or any conductive issues with it. A large company like Kester knows what they are doing and had come across the right formula maybe years ago. I have some joints even with this solder that do not like to bind and then a more aggressive flux is used but in the end the solder bonding to the component lead well and the foil trace is not ever a problem. Too many scare tactics are used to steer people away from accepted use materials and I for one do not find anything wrong with what I am using or I would not bought a case. If in some cases I have to clean boards due to lots of dirt and to get rid of brown flux marks which are probably there previously, I use Denatured and it all cleans off wonderfully. A slight rinse with Isopropyl will get rid of any while residue the Denatured leaves although it is only for looks as the while residue has never resulted in any issues. The largest issue I see that was not selected correctly is that cockeyed glue they put on large capacitors which is not at all needed. I have had to remove the component and get rid of the glue and under the glue you can see silver staples- jumpers starting to react and turn green (Brown glue) the Yellow glue which is worse ate transistor and zener diodes leads away in a Teacam 38 I was working on that lost the counter display. This then make it a worrisome consideration as to when this will result in other 30 series decks or even other deck that use that yellow glue- It is already known to conduct when humidity is high in the power section of the Teac V900X. All that garbage glue must be removed. If these guys would learn to solder their parts in properly there would never be a need for this glue.

Scare Tactics?????? This was taught in Military Board/Connector Repair before they would let you solder on a multi Million Dollar Aircraft? Use what you want but using the excuse "I've used this for years with no problems" never cuts it. Kester knows what they are doing??? That's where most of the information comes from........

Glue? What has that to do with the solder/flux???

 

[mlucitt]

What I use, mostly for cleaning on my Weller WTCP old school soldering station tip and for pre-fluxing large items like the capacitor bus bar.
I think it is mostly mildly activated pine sap, but it smells good to me. The only ingredient listed is zinc chloride. Easy to clean up with denatured alcohol, the natured alcohol is for me.

 

[Skywavebe]

The glue issue is a much more damaging product than any solder product I have even encounters since we are talking about damage to parts due to the resin that is used. We are not working on stealth bombers here and so that would have nothing to do with consumer level products either.
In order for me to see a reason for not using a flux solder of any kind, I need to see some proof of the damage it causes. I have never seen any and after 45 years in this business I have to say that is a pretty good sample. I am not about to use some $80 roll solder that some yuppy thought up to get away from lead. It requires too much heat to start with. I like Lead and will actively search it out- I have no kids chewing on my solder strings- If they want lead they will have to eat paint off of old buildings. I have no kids around me anyway as I find them to be an annoyance.
The flux I just bought and use on occasion is Harris stay-clean flux made of Zinc Chloride, Ethylene Glycol and Ammonium Chloride.
Everything is the State of California is known to cause cancer even it's cockeyed politicians. I am kind of tired seeing that as it is far too redundant- why don't they list the things that DON'T cause cancer in California then they would have a lot smaller list.

 

[J!m]

Saw dust causes cancer in CA. It says so on the plywood.

California is deadly! Stay out! Or you will die!