What dia. Kester no-clean solder you like to use; aka the solder shoot out at OK corral
- Thread starter stetter
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- Jan 14, 2011
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- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 74,995
- Location
- Gillette, Wyo.
- Tagline
- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
You must be like a democrat: 1. I asked you to prove your assertion, you did not. 2. So you challenge me to prove my testing (I made no assertion that it was superior to USN solder, just that it flows easily and cleans up easily {note: I did not say "better}) 3. Then you call me a name, (sorry Ed).
Nice one. We both had the same USN training, we both repair/build PL gear; don't try and be superior to me, you are not.
BTW, here are some comments I found AND the sources:
"Silver was originally added to lead alloy solder to prevent an effect known as silver migration. With typical lead alloy solders, the silver in a silver plating will leach out into the solder and cause the joints to become brittle and prone to breaking." https://www.lifewire.com/types-of-solder-flux-818850
"If you are soldering to silver wire, including some mica caps and silver-on-steel RF cables, you may want to use "silver" solder. This is because regular Sn/Pb solder will dissolve the silver over time. The silver in the 62/36/2 prevents this from happening." https://neurochrome.com/pages/choosing-solder
"Silver solder isn't better electrically, at least not so you can tell. It's used more for its strength and high temperature and corrosion resistance." https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/lead-solder-vs-silver.286956/
Nice one. We both had the same USN training, we both repair/build PL gear; don't try and be superior to me, you are not.
BTW, here are some comments I found AND the sources:
"Silver was originally added to lead alloy solder to prevent an effect known as silver migration. With typical lead alloy solders, the silver in a silver plating will leach out into the solder and cause the joints to become brittle and prone to breaking." https://www.lifewire.com/types-of-solder-flux-818850
"If you are soldering to silver wire, including some mica caps and silver-on-steel RF cables, you may want to use "silver" solder. This is because regular Sn/Pb solder will dissolve the silver over time. The silver in the 62/36/2 prevents this from happening." https://neurochrome.com/pages/choosing-solder
"Silver solder isn't better electrically, at least not so you can tell. It's used more for its strength and high temperature and corrosion resistance." https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/lead-solder-vs-silver.286956/
Your posting quote was not complete. Here is the whole thing. The last line is worth noting as I was ready to go get some till I read it through
SILVER ALLOY SOLDERS
Silver alloy solder can be either lead-free or combined with lead. Silver was originally added to lead alloy solder to prevent an effect known as silver migration. With typical lead alloy solders, the silver in a silver plating will leach out into the solder and cause the joints to become brittle and prone to breaking. Lead alloy solders with silver, such as 62/36/2 solder with 2% silver, 62% tin, and 36% lead, can be expensive, and the benefits aren't always worth the extra cost.
SILVER ALLOY SOLDERS
Silver alloy solder can be either lead-free or combined with lead. Silver was originally added to lead alloy solder to prevent an effect known as silver migration. With typical lead alloy solders, the silver in a silver plating will leach out into the solder and cause the joints to become brittle and prone to breaking. Lead alloy solders with silver, such as 62/36/2 solder with 2% silver, 62% tin, and 36% lead, can be expensive, and the benefits aren't always worth the extra cost.
The extra cost for 62/36/2 solder at Radio Shack was exactly $1.00. The 63/37 is $5.00 per spool, and the 62/36/2 is $6.00 per spool.
https://tinyurl.com/rrdmm8n
https://tinyurl.com/rrdmm8n
Ha.... I buy one LB rolls... and yes Glen, it will add up quick.... The amount of building/soldering I do, a one ounce roll would last me a week OR LESS. Even using my Navy math, the silver solder would be $16 more in a MANLY size roll. But hell, when your solder joints are JEWELS, you could sell just the joints for big bucks. You wouldn't need to build a complete amp.
AND, as a side note, that solder you are using (If it is in fact the solder you pointed us to in your link) that is RA solder and should NOT be used. RA (Rosin activated) flux is more corrosive that RMA, which is what the Navy used EXCLUSIVELY. Also, that is Rosin Cored NOT no clean solder. The manufacturer also tells you it must be "Cleaned" within 2 hours at 100 degrees F or it can cause "Issues". I don't know about you but it takes longer than that to build a Control board (even without breaks) so you would have to clean your board a couple times before you even finished putting it together. Skip the Radio Shack (we called it "Shit Shack") since we were kids) crap and buy from a reputable company (the Navy used only Kester which is the best) and use an RMA solder. Do not use an RA solder if you are smart. Even if your solder joints are "Jewels", you risk damage to your boards.
.015
.020
.031
.050
.062
The silver bearing solder is the 020 and I like it as it is eutectic. The others were a clear out at an audio swap meet and I got partial rolls of each. I like 031 and 050 the best for board work the .015 is too fine to put much metal down and I need a few inches to fill a component fillet use that for smd stuff. The 062 is nice to have for the older gear with point to point and lots of large terminal strips. The 031 and 050 are my standard go tos.
The silver solder is needed when a silver containing component is soldered in as the tin/lead solder will dissolve the silver out of the component which could lead to failure. Since the silver solder is eutectic just like the 63/37 stuff, 4°C difference they both flow well better than the non-eutectic 60/40 which has a melting point range of a few degrees. Not a big deal but it is noticeable. The shiny result of using the silver bearing solder is really nice though.
All that said I would buy either 050 or 031 no-clean and that time is coming close with little 031 left.
.020
.031
.050
.062
The silver bearing solder is the 020 and I like it as it is eutectic. The others were a clear out at an audio swap meet and I got partial rolls of each. I like 031 and 050 the best for board work the .015 is too fine to put much metal down and I need a few inches to fill a component fillet use that for smd stuff. The 062 is nice to have for the older gear with point to point and lots of large terminal strips. The 031 and 050 are my standard go tos.
The silver solder is needed when a silver containing component is soldered in as the tin/lead solder will dissolve the silver out of the component which could lead to failure. Since the silver solder is eutectic just like the 63/37 stuff, 4°C difference they both flow well better than the non-eutectic 60/40 which has a melting point range of a few degrees. Not a big deal but it is noticeable. The shiny result of using the silver bearing solder is really nice though.
All that said I would buy either 050 or 031 no-clean and that time is coming close with little 031 left.