Michael F
Journeyman
Same design but dual mono? I guess channel separation and cross-talk figures are improved.The G board is a true dual mono board. The channels share nothing...
Same design but dual mono? I guess channel separation and cross-talk figures are improved.The G board is a true dual mono board. The channels share nothing...
Thanks Joe.You have mail.Hi Michael
The release notes for each are attached which describe the features of each.
Joe
Yes those are delegated by factory. These are the fly back diodes. Much debate as to there requirement in full complimentary setup but Joe said they will not hurt so I add them. I don’t think Ed likes them put in. Your choice
Save yourself hours of head scratching to understand the pl36 board in the full complementary setup and buy a new WhiteOaks F or G Board Very easy install using Joe’s documents. Also get a watts abundant DCP board from Don.
I F#•Ked that up. I should have said Rev ENo Rev F
They are always good to have and are good design practice regardless of why PL removed them
As for the service center agreement, I signed one, and figured it was null and void once the service department no longer existed. I scanned the common manuals that I was provided by P/L and have posted them here and elsewhere. Nobody is being hurt because of that and I don't lose any sleep about it.
Every designer worth his salt puts a clamp diode around the coil of a DC relay. When power is turned off to a relay, usually by a transistor turning off, the collapsing magnetic filed in the relay turns into a voltage spike generator. A 12 volt relay can easily generate a pulse in excess of 100V. The diode clamps the voltage. Without the diode the transistor sees the voltage spike and may be damaged.
Speaker cabinets with woofers can also generate inductive spikes just like a relay. The potential cost of a blown amp versus the cost of a couple diodes should seem a like an easy decision to include them.
As for the service center agreement, I signed one, and figured it was null and void once the service department no longer existed. I scanned the common manuals that I was provided by P/L and have posted them here and elsewhere. Nobody is being hurt because of that and I don't lose any sleep about it.
I`m sure the E version will be just fine. It`s an evolved, tried and true board, it`s less expensive and I dont feel the need for a dual mono configuration particularly in my application which will be a single channel driving a JBL B380 subwoofer. Crosstalk is not really a concern.Why not the G1?
I`m sure the E version will be just fine. It`s an evolved, tried and true board, it`s less expensive and I dont feel the need for a dual mono configuration particularly in my application which will be a single channel driving a JBL B380 subwoofer. Crosstalk is not really a concern.
Pair of bridged 400's , lots of big dancing meters to watch. Since those darn 400's go for next to " nothing" might be kinda a fun thing to have someday. Subs just aren't in my world even using my Nikko Alpha II the JBL's l150's have enough bass to shake my place apart.Save that for your main amp and try one of my bridged 400’s. 800 watts into 8 ohm for your sub