The Fleatique Phase Linear 700 B

When I hooked one up like that there was some board damage. Check Q1-Q4 All diodes and Q7
 
When I received this board, it came with no assembly or installation instructions. I emailed the seller and asked if there were any tips or tricked I needed to know. He emailed me a bunch of documents. One document was the color coded wiring guide to install the board in the amp. I looked at the wiring guide document this morning and it says "Revision C", but I have a I have a "Revision D" board.

I see what happened now. The Rev. C instructions say there is an "Intentional Blank Area" just to the left of holes 1 and 2 on both the left and right sides of the board.

On the Rev. D board there is no blank area and I mistakenly assumed that meant leave the 3rd hole from the right on each side empty. If I had actually paid attention to the silkscreen labeling on the board, this would not have happened.

So, I have the yellow and purple wires installed one hole too far to the left on both sides of the board, plus the white wire on the right side of the board needs to be moved one hole to the right.
 
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OK, I fixed the board connection wiring snafu and now have a good dim bulb.

Time to check the bias and offset.

Both channels biased up fine and offset is good.

Left = 378 mV bias and -14.0 mV offset
Right = 379 mV bias and -14.8 mV offset


The dim bulb tester evidently saved my bacon on the board components!!

Hooked up the bench speakers and an iPod. The music is playing again. :mrgreen:

Thanks much Lee for all your help!!!!
 
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WHEW!!!!! The DBT has saved my bacon more times than I can count.
 
Moved this amp into my main listening system today. Running a Rogue Audio Perseus preamp, AudioSmile modded Behringer DEQ2496 DAC and KEF LS50 speakers. The WOPL 700B replaced a Vincent SP-331 amp, which was highly reviewed a few years back. The WOPL gives up nothing to the Vincent. The bass is probably even better with the WOPL. Am very happy with the refurb results.
 
Scott, w are finding out the WOPL"S give up nothing at all to a very high number of amps, regardless of make, model or number....
 
All of the outputs, except two, on one side of this amp were bad. All on the other side were good. Replaced all of them on the bad side. Now I'm wondering if I should have done the same on the good side just for good measure. Thoughts?
 
BMWR75 said:
All of the outputs, except two, on one side of this amp were bad. All on the other side were good. Replaced all of them on the bad side. Now I'm wondering if I should have done the same on the good side just for good measure. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Are the output drivers MJ21196 devices Scott?
 
They are RCA 410s, which I think Lee said are the good ones.

The outputs were all F PL909s.
 
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BMWR75 said:
They are RCA 410s, which I think Lee said are the good ones.
Click to expand...

Hi Scott, those are the pre-drivers and there are only 4 of them, one at the bottom of each column. And the RCA410s are the best device for that location.

What are the output drivers that are the 5 devices above the RCA410s?

When you said all but 2 were bad in one channel, you mean you had 10 bad transistors in total?
 
BMWR75 said:
They are RCA 410s, which I think Lee said are the good ones.

The outputs were all F PL909s.
Click to expand...

The PL909s are the original output driver devices Scott.

They are 3.5A collector current devices. The more modern MJ21196 output drivers are 15A devices and have a higher gain bandwidth product than the original PL909s.

The Safe Operating Area of the MJ21196 is many times greater than the original PL909.
 
Gepetto said:
When you said all but 2 were bad in one channel, you mean you had 10 bad transistors in total?
Click to expand...

Sorry, all but two outputs in one channel were bad........in other words, 8 out of 10 tested bad in one channel. Replaced all 10 with new MJ21196 output drivers. [TABLE="class: no-border cartProdDetailcell, width: 0"]
<tbody style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">[TR]
[TD]Mouser #:[/TD]
[TD]863-MJ21196G[/TD]
[/TR]
</tbody>[/TABLE]


The 10 in the other channel all tested good and are still being used.
 
BMWR75 said:
Sorry, all but two outputs in one channel were bad........in other words, 8 out of 10 tested bad in one channel. Replaced all 10 with new MJ21196 output drivers. [TABLE="class: no-border cartProdDetailcell, width: 0"]
<TBODY>[TR]
[TD]Mouser #:
[/TD]
[TD]863-MJ21196G
[/TD]
[/TR]
</TBODY>[/TABLE]


The 10 in the other channel all tested good and are still being used.
Click to expand...

Scott
Many here would recommend going to the MJ21196 in the other channel unless you are anticipating converting this to full comp with the backplane kit.
 
Thanks Joe. Am doubtful I'll ever go full comp.......but who knows. Will get the new outputs on order.
 
Let me show a little more of my ignorance about electronics.

I installed new output transistors in the left channel of this amp today. The right side already had new ones.

Do I need to recheck the bias now? Or is bias only affected by the transistors on the WO PL14_20 board?

EDIT
-----
I went ahead and checked the bias and it was still right at 380 mV on both channels.
 
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BMWR75 said:
Let me show a little more of my ignorance about electronics.

I installed new output transistors in the left channel of this amp today. The right side already had new ones.

Do I need to recheck the bias now? Or is bias only affected by the transistors on the WO PL14_20 board?
Click to expand...

Recheck it for the new transistors Scott. It should be close but you should adjust for the devices you just installed. Should be able to do it by just removing the top lid.
 
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