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Sutton's Phased Linear White Oaked 1000 Rigg #2
- Thread starter laatsch55
- Start date
Looking good. I am waiting on some connectors, a new solder station and a few more odds and ends to begin my attampt at bringing a 400 back to life. Next on my list is putting the light bulb apparatus together and epoxying the protect transistor leads to the chassis so I can replace the power cord. She is pretty clean and unmolested on the inside. I'll post some pics over in the thread about the rebuild..
Thanks again Lee. I'm ready to rock and roll.
Thanks again Lee. I'm ready to rock and roll.
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- Joined
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- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
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Sutton, I DO NOT EPOXY THE BIAS TRANSISTOR leads to the chassis. I epoxy small fiberglass sleeves to run the leads through. What I'm trying to accomplish there is to keep limited pull angle on the leads./ There will be a bit of straight pull on it but they can take that. The leads on those 2N3403's are stiff and NOT VERY mallaeble. If you can keep the sideways pull off of em they do ok.
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In addition to the epoxy that Lee mentions, I generally change the lead wires to 26AWG Tefzel for the bias devices. The original 22AWG that Phase used is way too stiff for that application and the insulation has not aged well on most amps causing the flexibility to suffer. In general, Phase used cheap hookup wire and the meltback characteristics are terrible while soldering, even at low iron temperatures. To combat the meltback, I always put a 3/8" piece of 1/16" diameter heat shrink tubing on each wire end as I reattach it into the new White Oak board. This allows application of enough heat to make a good connection to the old, oxidized wire and to present a neat appearance as well. The heatshrink tubing shrinks over the original insulation during the soldering operation and will not melt back.
On the bridge topic, I notice that Mouser now sells 50A 1000V GeneSic bridge rectifiers in the original KBH package that the 25A was put into. I will be sampling some of these in my next order with Mouser.
Enjoy the games today guys.
On the bridge topic, I notice that Mouser now sells 50A 1000V GeneSic bridge rectifiers in the original KBH package that the 25A was put into. I will be sampling some of these in my next order with Mouser.
Enjoy the games today guys.
Thanks Joe, I'm glad you saw the reversed compnent too. Would have been a problem I suppose. Do you have the Mouser part number for the BR? Also, where is everyone buying 5 and 8 amp fuses? I can't find ANY 8 amp ones locally, and I am going to need some. Thanks..I have bought from Mouser, MCM and Parts Express. I'm just trying to find the best price, plus, I hate to spend ten or fifteen buck on shipping for fuses..maybe I could order some other things to make me feel better about the shipping costs..I will need snother one of your cap kits Joe...also need some hook up wire, some more shrink tubing...some replacement stainless screws for the transistors, and all of the ones in the amp which are rusted...If I knew the part numbers for those things I could order them all from Mouser....anybody know the size of the screws?
Hi Sutton
The Mouser part number for the bridge rectifier is 905-KBPC50010T/W
I purchase fuses off of Mouser too.
5A are 504-AGX-5
8A are 504-BK/AGC-8-R
Both of them are in stock at Mouser.
I have a small stock of both so to save you shipping cost, let me know how many of each you need and I will ship them to you at same cost that Mouser charges and backfill my stash on my next order with them.
The Mouser part number for the bridge rectifier is 905-KBPC50010T/W
I purchase fuses off of Mouser too.
5A are 504-AGX-5
8A are 504-BK/AGC-8-R
Both of them are in stock at Mouser.
I have a small stock of both so to save you shipping cost, let me know how many of each you need and I will ship them to you at same cost that Mouser charges and backfill my stash on my next order with them.
Are all the fuses the standard 1 1/4" size? The one appears to be a smaller fuse, but I think the ones in the amp now are all standard sized fuses? Just wondering. I may take you up on the offer of putting some fuses in an order for anothe cap kit. I have 10 5 amp AGC fuses and 10 10 amp AGC fuses, and don't know how many I will blow during the process of trying to rebuild. What do you think, maybe 10 or 15 of the 8 amp fuses and 5 or so more of the 5 amp ones?
Do you have any 10,000uf snapin caps that you trust? Or do you think anything over the 16,800uf is just overkill?
I may just keep the screws in the amp....just try to clean them up and soak them in some solution to get the rust off and prevent future rusting..
Anyone got a spare variac they want to sell? Looks like I'm going to need one..
Do you have any 10,000uf snapin caps that you trust? Or do you think anything over the 16,800uf is just overkill?
I may just keep the screws in the amp....just try to clean them up and soak them in some solution to get the rust off and prevent future rusting..
Anyone got a spare variac they want to sell? Looks like I'm going to need one..
Hi Sutton
The 2 rail fuses are AGX5 and are smaller in size (1"L x 1/4" diameter). This is an oddball size that does not get used anymore. The normal fuse size used today is either 1-1/4"L x 1/4"diameter and is the size used for the 8A primary AC fuse (AGC8)
The fuseholders that Phase used for these 2 rail locations could have a normal 1-1/4" fuse forced into them which is likely what you have. All the PL400s that I have purchased over the years had one or more of the fuses forced in a similar condition. Fortunately the internal spring does not get deformed as a result and you can revert to the proper AGX5 size with no negative consequences.
I am fortunate in that I have not gone through many fuses over the years, your mileage may vary though
The 2 rail fuses are AGX5 and are smaller in size (1"L x 1/4" diameter). This is an oddball size that does not get used anymore. The normal fuse size used today is either 1-1/4"L x 1/4"diameter and is the size used for the 8A primary AC fuse (AGC8)
The fuseholders that Phase used for these 2 rail locations could have a normal 1-1/4" fuse forced into them which is likely what you have. All the PL400s that I have purchased over the years had one or more of the fuses forced in a similar condition. Fortunately the internal spring does not get deformed as a result and you can revert to the proper AGX5 size with no negative consequences.
I am fortunate in that I have not gone through many fuses over the years, your mileage may vary though