phase linear 400

Gepetto said:
Gene, keep up the sharing when your kits arrive. The experts on this site will keep you on the straight and narrow during the assembly process and give you hints and tips. We all want your build to come out as perfectly as possible.
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I cannot wait to see this!
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
I can't reccommend anything else, but I have used 951. I prefer the 959t since it has just a touch of rosin in it (.5%) for killer joints.

959T Soldering Flux
Kester 959T is a no-clean, non-corrosive, liquid flux that is designed for the wave soldering of conventional and surface mount circuit board assemblies. 959T was developed to minimize the formation of micro-solderballs during wave soldering operations. This flux contains a small percentage of rosin (0.5%), which improves solderability, heat stability and surface insulation resistance. 959T offers the best wetting and the shiniest solder joints of any no-clean, solvent-based chemistry. 959T leaves evenly distributed residues for the best cosmetic appearance. 959T is classified as ORL0.
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Any tips on soldering the Dual sided WOB Control boards? and back pane board?
and Tips on checking the Top Side for good solder Joint?
What temp is recommended and what Temp do you use?

I also use the Kester No clean .031 1.1% and Kester Rosin .031 3.3%
I will have to try the 959T flux. I rarely use my paste.
I also use the 91% Isopropyl Alcohol sold at Walgreens w a tooth brush to clean afterwards and than a rag.

or / and if the boards are old and full of old flux and what ever that sticky old stuff is lol (I do this before and after soldering) I will spread (or spill) or spray the Isopropyl Alcohol over the board and use the toothbrush to clean it, than I clean it up w a rag. (and also inspecting the board for looses parts)
Than I will do it again until it somewhat clean than I spay it again but this time I put a Clean Rag over it and use the Tooth Bruch to clean it But the rag will catch the pins but I keep brushing it (best rags are the thinner ones, I have tried Paper Towels but that just made a big mesh)
If the old board are still dirty and not smooth yet , I will do it again, than just in the Dirty area , It's Amazing how good the boards look afterword's (like smooth again).
 
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That Kester solder works perfectly - I bought a spool of it when I built the WOPL 400-II kit, based on the recommendations out here. I use it on everything now.

If gettibng liquid flux into CR will be an issue, this paste works great - I use it on difficult joints with excellent results.
 

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e30m3mon said:
That Kester solder works perfectly - I bought a spool of it when I built the WOPL 400-II kit, based on the recommendations out here. I use it on everything now.

If gettibng liquid flux into CR will be an issue, this paste works great - I use it on difficult joints with excellent results.
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sounds great...i actually have a flux paste...but it is so fluxing old...and i used it on other old stuff that needs soldering...
only needed it a few times...and it did the job...

not sure how customs will handle anything....this is a spanish country....the vast majority dont know english....which is the language on the invoice and products and descriptions of everything i bring in....so...you never know how something will be classified....i ordered two sets of transistors once...one was classified as circuitos and the other lote de transistoras....both have different tax rates....and they were both to3 style transistors....

it is illegal to bring in sun screen and some beauty products....or anything with uv skin protection....dont ask why....i am not sure even they know why....
but, i bought a cleaner/conditioner that you use for sprucing up your car interior...i use it on the dash and leather seats....it had uv protection written on the outside of the bottle...i had explaining to do...but, was allowed to proceed....they did not know the difference between sun screen and uv protection in aero 303,,,,also works great on your plastic headlight lens covers...the ones that turn yellow....
over the years we have learned what to do/say to minimize problems....just a learning curve....as i am just a guest here too....and not looking for problems....lol
thanks for the advice....it is welcomed....and i do believe this will be an interesting project for the masses...

GOOD MORNING, EVERYBODY....
GET UP...THE DAY IS HALF OVER...
LOL
 
gene french said:
just curious....
as a person gets older, around my age...they start reflecting on certain aspects of their life....things done...things not done....
how have they impacted their surroundings....have you left the world a better place....
and i have often wondered what will be done/said after i am gone....
if any of you could be a fly on the wall at your own funeral....what is the one thing you would love to hear someone say???
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no takers???
no answers??
you guys getting soft??
did you see the hook sticking out of the bait???
lol

the correct answer to the one thing GENE would like to hear at his own funeral is.....

wait for it...

HEY LOOK EVERYBODY, GENE IS MOVING!!!
 
I use a small screwdriver or chisel tip on the iron, 700 deg F calibrated with a Hakko clone thermocouple. I use whatever solder Joe recommended way in back, probably what you use.
On the control board, I solder the backside with the small screwdriver tip. Then move to the top and very carefully touchup the top being very careful with the heat. I'll switch to a long conical SMD tip to reach under plastic transistors or or tight places. That long SMD tip doesn't carry much thermal mass heat so there's little chance of heat stressing the component. After doing SMD projects on hot plates, ovens, and hot air, lightly neatening up the top of the board using good judgement and proper tip/temperature isn't a issue to me
On the backplanes, the PEM nuts are easy to due with a good iron and a screwdriver tip. Long ago Joe posted about spinning the PEM nut with the tip while adding solder. This works great once everything is up to heat and there's liquid solder between the board and nut, just have to be aware the nut has to be square with the board as it cools. I aim for good solder penetration and a nice raised solder "doughnut" on the bottom of the board. Then run a tap through the nuts and lightly lube the threads. This pays off big time when installing the outputs. Once those silpads start to curl on the edge or wrinkle, stop.
The big things are, read old posts, intently study the photos, have the tools and parts, study the PDFs and print them if you need to or work off a laptop. Really study what prior builders did for success, especially photos. Have a good well lit workspace where you can work long term. And don't rush it. The first build can be intimidating, but once done, many of us build more these. They're really not that hard because Joe has made it easy with his outstanding kits.
 
Not to hijack the mojo going on here, but I used to use 303 on everything and found out it is mostly silicone. Tossed all that I have and have only used this product on practically everything:
https://www.reliableproductsonline....vinyl-kote/automotive-cleaning-and-protection

Reliable Products makes a full line of protectants and their products last on surfaces for (practically) ever - including difficult plastics made of red and black colors. Those tend to fade back quickly, even with 303 on them. The downside for you is that most are spray/liquid.

A little spray went a long way to brighten the under-hood of my M3. This has 255k miles on it and never looked better!

ok - back to WOPL stuff...
 

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And note the builds with nicely built control boards, so so back planes, and not so good wiring and issues with proper operating. Sniff has often said build these so when someone else in the future opens it, he'll appreciate your outstanding work. That's the way to do it. Don't rush it. Do neat work.
 
gene french said:
absolutely wonderful advice and greatly appreciated.....
cant wait to unpackage it...
which do you recommend doing first....
i would think the board....since it seems to be the easiest and give me a feel for joes methodology....
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Perfect. Exactly.
 
i have 2 little bags of soldering tips as well...if i go through the trouble of bringing something in...its not much price difference in bringing in two ....
as long as they are in the same box....and god forbid if one invoice gets lost before sending to customs for evaluation....
i ordered a few things at one time from amazon....it was split up into different orders and shipments....however, dont know how...but amazon but 2 products from two different invoices into the same shipping box....therefore i had two invoices for one shipment....99.9% of the time it is the other way around....one invoice and multiple shipments.....and would you believe....on the box correos website you can only enter one invoice per shipment tracking number....what a shame....lol....
i do get to get on top sometimes....
 
Sniff has built dozens, I've built three. I studied all his posts and photos for months before ordering. Fred and Glen also have some great photos of builds they've done. Glen is the "mad scientist" with his esoteric builds, really unique, especially the Dual 500s. Download photos and really study them on a desktop with a monitor and magnification.
 
e30m3mon said:
Not to hijack the mojo going on here, but I used to use 303 on everything and found out it is mostly silicone. Tossed all that I have and have only used this product on practically everything:
https://www.reliableproductsonline....vinyl-kote/automotive-cleaning-and-protection

Reliable Products makes a full line of protectants and their products last on surfaces for (practically) ever - including difficult plastics made of red and black colors. Those tend to fade back quickly, even with 303 on them. The downside for you is that most are spray/liquid.

A little spray went a long way to brighten the under-hood of my M3. This has 255k miles on it and never looked better!

ok - back to WOPL stuff...
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is that your supper plate ??
wow....
it looks clean enough to eat from!!!!
lol
classy...
clean....

just like your wopl build!!!!

i buy a silicon spray here to spray under the hood....i am very careful cleaning under the hood near the computers and wiring on my cummins...
so, when i am done....i coat everything with the silicone spray....acts as a shield and water proofing....
the 303 is reserved for the inside and headlights....
once a month i put a small amout of brake fluid on a rag and gently coat all of the weather stripping....it prevents the rubber from getting hard and brittle....plus it swells the rubber a bit.....and keeps down the wind noise......
the key is small amount...just enough to wet the surface....it soaks up quickly and you dont want to over do it...it also keeps the rubber black...and takes out the chalky appearance....
 
George S. said:
Sniff has built dozens, I've built three. I studied all his posts and photos for months before ordering. Fred and Glen also have some great photos of builds they've done. Glen is the "mad scientist" with his esoteric builds, really unique, especially the Dual 500s. Download photos and really study them on a desktop with a monitor and magnification.
Click to expand...
got a 24" flat screen on the i5 intel nuc computer....should surfice nicely!!!
 
e30m3mon said:
Not to hijack the mojo going on here, but I used to use 303 on everything and found out it is mostly silicone. Tossed all that I have and have only used this product on practically everything:
https://www.reliableproductsonline....vinyl-kote/automotive-cleaning-and-protection

Reliable Products makes a full line of protectants and their products last on surfaces for (practically) ever - including difficult plastics made of red and black colors. Those tend to fade back quickly, even with 303 on them. The downside for you is that most are spray/liquid.

A little spray went a long way to brighten the under-hood of my M3. This has 255k miles on it and never looked better!

ok - back to WOPL stuff...
Click to expand...

1652017918607.png
 
e30m3mon said:
My wife would be that ONE person!
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lololol....
not many automatics here...
nobody knows how to work on them...
cheaper to use a manual....
a buddy that moved nearby at the same time i came here...bought a trailblazer...and the auto lost reverse and second gear...
i ended up rebuilding it....a first for me...because no body here would even touch one...
there were some shops on the pacific coast that would ... but we are a long way from there...and they wanted 1500 to do the work....
worked out fine....still driving today....
i have a 48re in the dodge...and i keep a stage 4 rebuild kit in stock, complete with new steels and fibers....i just dont have the case or torque converter....nobody in the country is equipped to do that transmission...
.and i chipped the dodge and that transmission is not bullet proof...so...when i do get it...and i am sure i will...i have the parts....lol
aint life fun!!!!
 
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