phase linear 400

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I can't reccommend anything else, but I have used 951. I prefer the 959t since it has just a touch of rosin in it (.5%) for killer joints.

959T Soldering Flux
Kester 959T is a no-clean, non-corrosive, liquid flux that is designed for the wave soldering of conventional and surface mount circuit board assemblies. 959T was developed to minimize the formation of micro-solderballs during wave soldering operations. This flux contains a small percentage of rosin (0.5%), which improves solderability, heat stability and surface insulation resistance. 959T offers the best wetting and the shiniest solder joints of any no-clean, solvent-based chemistry. 959T leaves evenly distributed residues for the best cosmetic appearance. 959T is classified as ORL0.
 

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I mix 99% Isopropyl with acetone for cleaning (a 50/50 mix works awesome). You can use straight Iso but you get ugly white haze on the boards which wipes off but there are too many nooks and crannies to get it all. It won't hurt anything just ugly.
 

gene french

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ok....if you dont have confidence in anything but the liquid...i will get the 959 off of ebay...by itself...
so that if customs classifies it as hazardous....i wont lose the solder....
i will get the solder off amazon.....031////
last time this happened they confiscated my grits....grits....can you believe...and i had brought them in several times before....
but, not only that....they kept the two items that was shipped with the grits...
i asked if someone shipped a container of household goods here and accidently or ignorantly shipped a no no in the container .... would customs confiscate the whole damn container....to which he simply replied....yep...

if i get your ok sniff....i will pull the trigger now...
 

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ok....if you dont have confidence in anything but the liquid...i will get the 959 off of ebay...by itself...
so that if customs classifies it as hazardous....i wont lose the solder....
i will get the solder off amazon.....031////
last time this happened they confiscated my grits....grits....can you believe...and i had brought them in several times before....
but, not only that....they kept the two items that was shipped with the grits...
i asked if someone shipped a container of household goods here and accidently or ignorantly shipped a no no in the container .... would customs confiscate the whole damn container....to which he simply replied....yep...

if i get your ok sniff....i will pull the trigger now...
Doesn't anybody solder in CR??? What would you be using if you didn't order any of this????
 

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Frequently Asked Questions About Soldering Supplies in Costa Rica
Where can I buy Soldering Supplies brand online at the lowest price in the Costa Rica?
Desertcart is the best online shopping platform in the Costa Rica where you can choose to buy from the largest selection of Soldering Supplies products. Desertcart Costa Rica delivers the most unique and largest selection from around the world especially from the US, UK, India at a reasonable price and fastest delivery time. If you can't find a particular Soldering Supplies product on Desertcart, we pay you!
 

gene french

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maybe in san jose....but, not around here...and san jose is a 10 hour drive round trip...
they would just have a general purpose solder....i have bought one before....similar to the one i sent a picture of and you said throw in the jungle...
i have quit wasting my time trying to run down stuff that is exactly what i want...
i just order off of amazon or ebay....i want what i want....and something tells me...you do too...
stores here in my neighborhood only stock what they can sell....and trust me...
i am probably the only guy here with vintage audio equipment...
if you want black and decker you can buy it locally....
if you want kitchenaide....well either a long drive or amazon...

no matter....its done...got solder from amazon...and 959 from ebay....
hopefully i will get them both through...
thank you sniff....

i told amazon what you said about the price joe....
didnt make a bit of difference....they said take it or leave it....
lol

thanks guys
 

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DIY no-clean-style flux
2019-06-06 SDIY chemistry science!

My two previous DIY solder flux formulations are both designed to be cleaned away after use, with alcohol or with water. In both cases the cleaning is more or less necessary: traditional resin leaves a sticky residue that will attract water, and the citric-acid water-wash flux remains active and corrosive at room temperature, so it will damage boards if left in place. But there are many solder joints, such as those involving stranded wire or liquid-trapping components like potentiometers, that cannot or should not be cleaned after soldering. Those mandate a no-clean flux.

The flux I'm describing here is somewhat experimental. It is partially inspired by US Patent 5,297,721, but also incorporates some ideas from other patents, known formulations of commercial fluxes, and the compromises necessary to make it something you can reasonably mix up in a home lab. Please note that fluxes similar to this one are sold on the claim that they work without cleaning, but I'm not sure I want to commit to that really working, and so I am calling it "no-clean style" rather than promising that it will really work perfectly well without cleaning. In my testing, residues from fluxes made to this formulation have allowed significant leakage currents that might interfere with circuit operation. It may be better to treat this as a water-wash flux. See my next article for the test results.

Laxatives and supplements
As described in the first article of this series, one of the fundamental flux ingredients is the resin: a gooey or plastic-like substance that will become a thin liquid under soldering heat and flow out onto the joint, possibly carrying other ingredients with it. Pine rosin, or the resin from which it is derived, is the old standby for this purpose. Synthetic fluxes that avoid rosin often replace it with polyethylene glycol (PEG). The paste filling of no-clean flux-core solder is often just some grade of PEG, possibly with a small amount of an activator added, much as rosin flux might contain an activator.

Polyethylene glycol is not to be confused with ethylene glycol, commonly used in antifreeze. The connection between them is theoretical: PEG has the structure that would result if you joined molecules of ethylene glycol into a polymer, and that determines its name, but PEG is not in fact manufactured by polymerizing ethylene glycol in practice, but rather by polymerizing ethylene oxide.

The properties of PEG vary depending on how many ethylene oxide molecules were joined to create each PEG molecule, so when PEG is used in industry, it's not just "PEG" but PEG with some number, such as "PEG 400" or "PEG 3350." Each of these will inevitably be a mixture of different-sixed molecules, but the number describes the target value for the average molecular weight. With PEG 3350, each PEG molecule has about 76 ethylene oxide units in it.

PEGs up to about 1000 are liquid at room temperature (getting thicker and stickier as the number increases). They tend to be good solvents that will mix with both oil and water. Many fluxes use a low-molecular-weight PEG as the main solvent and dissolve whatever other ingredients are required into it. Past molecular weight 1000, we're dealing with solids, which go from soft and waxy up to hard and plastic-like; but they remain water-soluble even up to very high molecular weight. All the PEGs are basically non-toxic, and they're commonly used in a number of pharmaceutical and food-additive applications, for stuff like coating pills. They also have many niche uses - for instance, woodworkers and archaeologists sometimes stabilize wood by soaking it in PEG 400 or PEG 1000 to replace the water with something that won't evaporate.

I wanted to use a solid PEG as the resin in my no-clean flux formulation, but I was faced with how to obtain that and how to direct do-it-yourselfers to do the same. The answer turned out to be PEG 3350. It's commonly sold in drugstores as an over-the-counter laxative. The intended use is that you mix 17g of this stuff (which is a substantial amount) into a drink, swallow it, do that once a day, and it keeps everything moving. It is basically an artificial form of dietary fibre: something that won't be absorbed in your intestines and creates osmotic pressure, limiting water absorption. In many places you can buy pure PEG 3350 powder for this purpose quite cheaply under a name like "ClearLax," "RestoraLax," or "Macrogol."



In researching this, I learned that another common medical product is "PEG 3350 with electrolytes," often sold under the name "Colyte." That's used as a laxative and to flush out the intestines before procedures like colonoscopy, I think. I'm not sure that the "with electrolytes" version is commonly sold over-the-counter, that is, to the general public. But my guess is that in some places it may be possible to find that and not pure PEG; and if you were in that situation, you'd have a bit of an issue because the "electrolytes" are going to be things like sodium chloride. Any chloride is bad news in a no-clean flux because it will support corrosion.

So even though I'm not sure how applicable this is to most readers, I ended up doing an experiment on purifying PEG by removing the electrolytes from a "with electrolytes" product. If you need to do that, or just find the subject interesting, you can go watch the video for it.

Unlike rosin, PEG is not self-activating. If we use it alone on a solder joint, it will only have a very limited fluxing effect. We need to add something else to activate it, and the activator should ideally be something that will function as an acid or other corrosive kind of chemical at high temperatures, but be well-behaved and neutral at room temperature. It also, obviously, has to be something we can actually obtain, not too poisonous, compatible with whatever we're using as solvent (in this case, water), and so on.

Citric acid, the main activator in the water-wash flux from last entry, might be one good choice. I ended up putting a little bit of that in my no-clean flux because I hope that in small amounts it will help reduce corrosion by chelating metals (especially when the flux is formulated with tap water). I feel justified in using it as one ingredient of a no-clean flux because it's recommended as such in that patent I mentioned before. But I think it's too corrosive to be the main activator, or used in larger quantities.

Instead, I opted to make the main activator be some form of amino acid. An amino acid in general contains both an organic acid group and an amine (which functions as a base, the opposite of an acid) in the same molecule. At low temperatures they basically neutralize each other, making the substance relatively inactive. At high temperatures, both groups become active, giving the effect of both an organic acid flux activator and an amine activator in the same ingredient. That's what it takes to be a good activator for no-clean flux.

And the other really nice thing about amino acids is that they are non-toxic and easy to obtain. You can get a whole menu of food-grade pure amino acid powders at relatively low prices from a "sports nutrition" vendor, because some athletes, body-builders, and so on like to consume pure amino acids as dietary supplements, hoping to get some kind of performance enhancement. (I'm not going to comment very much on that, but you might ask yourself: if these products really worked as performance enhancers, then why aren't they banned as drugs by the sports governing
 

WOPL Sniffer

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Frequently Asked Questions About Soldering Supplies in Costa Rica
Where can I buy Soldering Supplies brand online at the lowest price in the Costa Rica?
Desertcart is the best online shopping platform in the Costa Rica where you can choose to buy from the largest selection of Soldering Supplies products. Desertcart Costa Rica delivers the most unique and largest selection from around the world especially from the US, UK, India at a reasonable price and fastest delivery time. If you can't find a particular Soldering Supplies product on Desertcart, we pay you!

It says they order it in for you.
 

George S.

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Gene, did you get the wire kit ordered from Joe? It's mil-spec Teflon insulated silver plated copper. Do you have good wire strippers that will strip Teflon insulation? Do you have additional mil-spec 16 or 14 AWG for the AC runs? This is not included in the wire kit. Are you going to run a twisted pair or mil-spec coax from the control board to the RCA jacks? This also not in the wire kit. What kind of new RCA jacks are you going to use, Switchcraft, Manley, etc? Do you have the part #s for the replacement rectifier and snubber caps? How many sets of Phoenix Contact Connectors did you order, enough for one board or all three. Are you going to reuse the original chassis, or a new chassis from Joe? New cord through the Heyco grommet or a IEC socket. Lots of ducks to get in a row before starting so compromises you may later regret aren't made. Can't rush the build. Take your time and it'll turn out great. Your soldering equipment looks good. If I've left something out please add. Oh, it's good to run a tap through the PEM nuts after soldering, I can't recall the size, but you'll see it on the back plane BOM. The bolts that go in these nuts are socket head Allen so you'll need a driver bit.
Just a few things to think about. Ideally all wire in the amp should be Teflon insulated. That includes the wiring to the DCP. You'll also need about 100 zip ties if you wire it the Sniff way that I copied as best as I could on my amps.
 

George S.

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I have a old tin of Radio Shack Rosin paste. Only place I use it is a little on the copper bus bar. Don't need much at all.
 

gene french

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Gene, did you get the wire kit ordered from Joe? It's mil-spec Teflon insulated silver plated copper. Do you have good wire strippers that will strip Teflon insulation? Do you have additional mil-spec 16 or 14 AWG for the AC runs? This is not included in the wire kit. Are you going to run a twisted pair or mil-spec coax from the control board to the RCA jacks? This also not in the wire kit. What kind of new RCA jacks are you going to use, Switchcraft, Manley, etc? Do you have the part #s for the replacement rectifier and snubber caps? How many sets of Phoenix Contact Connectors did you order, enough for one board or all three. Are you going to reuse the original chassis, or a new chassis from Joe? New cord through the Heyco grommet or a IEC socket. Lots of ducks to get in a row before starting so compromises you may later regret aren't made. Can't rush the build. Take your time and it'll turn out great. Your soldering equipment looks good. If I've left something out please add. Oh, it's good to run a tap through the PEM nuts after soldering, I can't recall the size, but you'll see it on the back plane BOM. The bolts that go in these nuts are socket head Allen so you'll need a driver bit.
Just a few things to think about. Ideally all wire in the amp should be Teflon insulated. That includes the wiring to the DCP. You'll also need about 100 zip ties if you wire it the Sniff way that I copied as best as I could on my amps.
i told joe i wanted the phoenix option....i previously ordered the wire strippers that someone linked to abebar when he STOLE MY thread...lol
so i got what was recommended to him...i ordered the wire kit from joe...and no...i dont have any of the other stuff...i do have metric and sae taps...
would you consider shotgunning that for me before completion...i am sure i will need other stuff...
i can pay through paypal or internet banking...
i will reuse my chassis...i will have whatever phoenix connectors come with the kit...i have some coax here...not sure of the sizes or impediences...
was unaware of what all i would need...
thank you mr. george...
i will definitely photo and document every step...
maybe others can benefit also...
 

George S.

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Contact NavLinear here on the forum about wire and coax. He was selling the proper wire to members. He should know exactly what you need. I'll get you the part#s for the rectifier, snubber caps, and Switchcraft RCAs and anything else I can think of tomorrow. All available from Mouser, Digikey or your favorite parts warehouse.
 
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