phase linear 400

Longer standoffs for that WO chassis if you want to space more control board out further.
 
and it put a black spot
George S. said:
Also, is your relay still clicking and the contacts are clearly not welded? Additional fuses, bias transistors. No visible swelling or leakage of any electrolytic caps?
Click to expand...
dcp engaging...blue led lights when engaged ...right channel bias set...left side unresponsive....b+- voltage present
+- 15 volt present...
i checked every component on the left back plane comparing to the right...
found bad/shorted/open resistors...one left a mark on the board...it rubbed off...wasnt noticed at first...r3 i believe...i feel confident i am now ok...
 
George S. said:
Gene, while your at it consider getting a good Fluke meter and installing all the upgrades to the amp like feet and Phoenix Contacts on the backplanes. The Phoenix Contact part#s are at the end of the control board BOM PDF. Just saying, consider it. May as well at this point.
If you get a meter ask the guys for recommended model #s. My Flukes are older US Govt. NSN models made for general use, model# 77 B/N. Better are available.
Click to expand...
i am open to suggestions and recommendations...
 
George S. said:
Also, is your relay still clicking and the contacts are clearly not welded? Additional fuses, bias transistors. No visible swelling or leakage of any electrolytic caps?
Click to expand...
not welded..functioning...bias transistors tested good....i went through all...when i got different readings from left and right...i removed from circuit to confirm...
 
I had a 77 B/N for years and years. Bought another on eBay used so I'd have two. Flukes are very good meters. They both read within .001 VAC of each other. Buy quality. You can possibly get new for close to price for used.
 
They can be calibrated but for a hand held meter they are fine without.

If you need higher precision, get a bench top meter.

and the low end Flukes (old 10 and 11 etc.) cannot be calibrated. I had a 10 for decades for simple volt measurements of the guns.

The 77-V I have now was new via eBay, and it’s working great. I’m on my second battery now. I also splurged on a case which also holds an amp clamp (also Fluke) that does AC and DC amps. Most are AC only…

Good stuff.
 
gene french said:
that model 77 sure likes the same exact unit i had in the early to mid 80s....
they are cheap on ebay....
do they ever need calibrating...if so...can i do it??
Click to expand...
I have 2 and make sure you get one w the Case. They don't need calibration for what we do and they are very accurate . The Fluke 77 has a better case than the newer ones do. How many Resistors are bad?
 
v77...i really dont want to spend over 100..
4 emitter resistors and r1 and r3...
r3 bad powder burn under it ...it wiped off...but its definitely zapped..
all of this over a tiny line of solder i evidently left on the face down faceplate...
 
Gene, if you splurge for a Fluke, get the case/holster and ORIGINAL leads. The 77 B/N manual describes calibration, but one needs the proper calibrated voltage source, very expensive, so I've never pursued it or felt the need.
The 77 B/N were produced specially for the Federal Government and were very common in all military maintenance shops I worked in.
If I was buying my first Fluke, I'd shoot for something newer than a old B/N.
All the aftermarket miniclip leads and such fit perfect.
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
I use a Fluke 77 and an 89............... They are awesome. Spend a few extra bucks and don't scrimp on test equipment. When you rely on them to troubleshoot all your stuff, $150 is cheap. Cheaper meters will give you cheaper results.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/134202867454?epid=1824522723&hash=item1f3f1d3efe:g:Ji4AAOSwrKNi~aHm&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAAoI8wh1MW/WkxoAjt9LN1crcJOmzTaMFCAgdnlDblQ7lNGp5/HEwbqYiOvPC3Rlp/R/A2ZjKL8oaN1ad8sBcESquneegyD387MWSKMJD6gaR+4RV0ss9CFIEZ7lWwyS7uq1au+1SAAPSr8LKPZh13N+ZPPRBXQTI7t2Ja9Cw64kwfhCCUb/QuA6vkcIeuJZwWie7DWPJOZltm6oRnq5sCvek=|tkp:Bk9SR-bEicbbYA
Click to expand...

almost all advised the 77....
i guess the 77 or 89 will have to work....
its a litte more than i want to spend...
but, i am worth it...
lol
thanks guys....
the advice i really needed....
 
George S. said:
Gene, if you splurge for a Fluke, get the case/holster and ORIGINAL leads. The 77 B/N manual describes calibration, but one needs the proper calibrated voltage source, very expensive, so I've never pursued it or felt the need.
The 77 B/N were produced specially for the Federal Government and were very common in all military maintenance shops I worked in.
If I was buying my first Fluke, I'd shoot for something newer than a old B/N.
All the aftermarket miniclip leads and such fit perfect.
Click to expand...

bidding on a 77 now...model iv
thanks kind sir...
 
I use my 77 almost daily and I bought it in about 2000 when taking some tron classes after I retired from the Nav. It has never failed me. Well worth the money no matter what it cost. I always stress to not skimp when it comes to test eq. We've had several members here over the years trying to repair shit with a $10 meter and they seem to always be an issue. I might keep a $10 meter in the tool box for my truck but that's about it. When you use a meter almost daily, and it cost $200 and you are still using it 25 years later, screw the cost.
 
got more resistors on the way....sure hope this catches it...
a lot of trouble for not seeing that solder on the faceplate...
you can bet....i will never do that again....plus a lot of other stuff that i messed up too...
lol
again....
thanks to all
 
gene french said:
v77...i really dont want to spend over 100..
4 emitter resistors and r1 and r3...
r3 bad powder burn under it ...it wiped off...but its definitely zapped..
all of this over a tiny line of solder i evidently left on the face down faceplate...
Click to expand...
Might want to double check , you should have 3 Emitter Resistors .33 Ohms
and your R1 and R3 1 Ohm
But the bottom one have different value resistors might want to check to see which ones are bad R10 1 Ohm , R21 10 Ohms and R23 150 Ohms
 
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