Yes, found the solution after searching the globe.Is that the problem when we had our conversation about the heatshrink?
Yes, found the solution after searching the globe.Is that the problem when we had our conversation about the heatshrink?
Sorry to sound dumb, are the rail fuses the screw in fuses on the back? I never removed those. The amp was working after the DC and cap install. Does the copper bus bar between the large caps connect the caps + on bottom cap to - on top cap? I replaced the new ones the same direction the old ones came out. I did cut off the other white wire and remove from PAD5R. See pics, still -.019 on the test points. No trimmer adjustment.View attachment 66517View attachment 66518View attachment 66519View attachment 66520
The board is populated following the full comp directions. Thanks
You did Lee...Don't doubt it. I searched my shit and never found anything close....I hope i told ya that...
I am not insulted, I am new to this. I didnt know which way to build the board, full or quasi, I chose full. Im not sure how to answer what the output stage is.Soooo...the output stage is full comp also...don't get insulted bud, just makin sure...whatcha got for outputs?
I populated every thing on the PL 14 board to the full comp directions, should I have gone quasi? The transistors on the back panel are untouched and originalIvan, who built the DCP??? It looks like C7 is in backwards
I bought it pre built from wattsIvan, the DCP is the board from WattsAbundant for speaker protection. Who built it? Check C7 for backwardness insertedness
Oh No, I'll go back and rebuild it.You have to build the board quasicomp the way your back wall is stock