Mark goes at it again... just bought a PL700/II!

[MarkWComer]

Excellent! Waiting patiently for the new videos Mark, looking forward to the continuing adventures ahead. Thank you for doing them and the time you spend on them also.

Bought a new camera to cut the wandering “autofocus” issues, but this camera is a monster (Nikon D7500) and choosing the correct settings is confounding. Slogging through it, so progress is advancing despite my clumsiness.

 

[MarkWComer]

Pin 5 of the cylon meters connect to the bus bar.

Is it best to have one connection each to the bus or can I use one wire and daisy chain between the boards?

(I have a permutation option for this bus bar in mind...)

I wanted to verify this before proceeding for the video, my goal is to provide the best possible information for the “unofficial” White Oak video rebuild guide for beginners.

 

[Wheel-right]

Bought a new camera to cut the wandering “autofocus” issues, but this camera is a monster (Nikon D7500) and choosing the correct settings is confounding. Slogging through it, so progress is advancing despite my clumsiness.

All the technology that was coming we were told of growing was supposed to make everything easier, Not!
Thanks Mark

 

[MarkWComer]

All the technology that was coming we were told of growing was supposed to make everything easier, Not!
Thanks Mark

Options X choices = confusion!

15 options for autofocus, but no usable option for active autofocus in video mode...

It really wasn’t supposed to be a video camera in my estimation.

 

[Gepetto]

Pin 5 of the cylon meters connect to the bus bar.

Is it best to have one connection each to the bus or can I use one wire and daisy chain between the boards?

(I have a permutation option for this bus bar in mind...)

I wanted to verify this before proceeding for the video, my goal is to provide the best possible information for the “unofficial” White Oak video rebuild guide for beginners.

Hi Mark
Wiring instructions pertain to the White Oak Audio Cylon light boards below (taken from the installation instructions).


Pin1= Analog ground. Run a new 22AWG Black wire from Pin1 of the RIGHT meter board to Pin1 of the LEFT meter board.



Pin2 = Existing 12VAC YELLOW wire from the transformer Secondary 2 is AC1 Input and goes ONLY to the RIGHT meter board. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board. DO NOT USE AC FROM SECONDARY 1 WHICH IS A MUCH HIGHER AC VOLTAGE (75VAC) WHICH WILL DAMAGE THESE METER BOARDS.



Pin3 = Existing 12VAC ORANGE wire from the transformer Secondary 2 is AC2 and goes ONLY to the RIGHT meter board. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board. DO NOT USE AC FROM SECONDARY 1 WHICH IS A MUCH HIGHER AC VOLTAGE (75VAC) WHICH WILL DAMAGE THESE METER BOARDS.



Pin4 = +15VDC. Run a new 22AWG Red wire from Pin4 of the RIGHT meter board to Pin4 of the LEFT meter board.



Pin5 = Analog ground. The Existing BLACK wire that originates from the amplifier chassis (tripled along with the red and white wire) goes to Pin5 of the RIGHT meter board ONLY. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board.



Pin6 (Right Channel Meter Board ONLY)= Meter Board Signal Input. The Existing RED wire that originates from the amplifier chassis (tripled along with the black and white wire) goes to Pin6 of the RIGHT meter board ONLY. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board.



Pin6 (Left Channel Meter Board ONLY)= Meter Board Signal Input. The Existing WHITE wire that originates from the amplifier chassis (tripled along with the black and red wire) goes to Pin6 of the LEFT meter board ONLY. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board.



Pin7 = NO CONNECTION for PL400S2. For PL700S2, connect the wire from the meter attenuator switch. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board. Remove 120K ohm resistor usually applied between the attenuator switch terminals. One switch pole goes to the right meter board and the other switch pole goes to the left meter board.



Pin8 = NO CONNECTION for PL400S2. For PL700S2, connect the wire from the meter attenuator switch. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board. Remove 120K ohm resistor usually applied between the attenuator switch terminals. One switch pole goes to the right meter board and the other switch pole goes to the left meter board.



Pin9 = B- Fused (either -80V for PL400 or -100V for PL700). Run 2 NEW purple wires from the shell (not the tip) of the NEGATIVE rail fuse holder B- to Pin9 of each of the left and right meter boards.

 

[MarkWComer]

Hi Mark
Wiring instructions pertain to the White Oak Audio Cylon light boards below (taken from the installation instructions).


Pin1= Analog ground. Run a new 22AWG Black wire from Pin1 of the RIGHT meter board to Pin1 of the LEFT meter board.



Pin2 = Existing 12VAC YELLOW wire from the transformer Secondary 2 is AC1 Input and goes ONLY to the RIGHT meter board. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board. DO NOT USE AC FROM SECONDARY 1 WHICH IS A MUCH HIGHER AC VOLTAGE (75VAC) WHICH WILL DAMAGE THESE METER BOARDS.



Pin3 = Existing 12VAC ORANGE wire from the transformer Secondary 2 is AC2 and goes ONLY to the RIGHT meter board. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board. DO NOT USE AC FROM SECONDARY 1 WHICH IS A MUCH HIGHER AC VOLTAGE (75VAC) WHICH WILL DAMAGE THESE METER BOARDS.



Pin4 = +15VDC. Run a new 22AWG Red wire from Pin4 of the RIGHT meter board to Pin4 of the LEFT meter board.



Pin5 = Analog ground. The Existing BLACK wire that originates from the amplifier chassis (tripled along with the red and white wire) goes to Pin5 of the RIGHT meter board ONLY. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board.



Pin6 (Right Channel Meter Board ONLY)= Meter Board Signal Input. The Existing RED wire that originates from the amplifier chassis (tripled along with the black and white wire) goes to Pin6 of the RIGHT meter board ONLY. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board.



Pin6 (Left Channel Meter Board ONLY)= Meter Board Signal Input. The Existing WHITE wire that originates from the amplifier chassis (tripled along with the black and red wire) goes to Pin6 of the LEFT meter board ONLY. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board.



Pin7 = NO CONNECTION for PL400S2. For PL700S2, connect the wire from the meter attenuator switch. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board. Remove 120K ohm resistor usually applied between the attenuator switch terminals. One switch pole goes to the right meter board and the other switch pole goes to the left meter board.



Pin8 = NO CONNECTION for PL400S2. For PL700S2, connect the wire from the meter attenuator switch. Cut and re-strip the existing wire to get a clean length to attach to the new meter board. Remove 120K ohm resistor usually applied between the attenuator switch terminals. One switch pole goes to the right meter board and the other switch pole goes to the left meter board.



Pin9 = B- Fused (either -80V for PL400 or -100V for PL700). Run 2 NEW purple wires from the shell (not the tip) of the NEGATIVE rail fuse holder B- to Pin9 of each of the left and right meter boards.

Dammit... gotta start reading the docs before bugging you.
Smak me on the head if you ever see me!

 

[Gepetto]

Dammit... gotta start reading the docs before bugging you.
Smak me on the head if you ever see me!

I was going to say WTFV but then realized you were still working on that

 

[MarkWComer]

Ring terminals for the neutral bus: Yea or nay?

 

[laatsch55]

...

 

[Gepetto]

Ring terminals for the neutral bus: Yea or nay?

Sure, my wire kit includes 4 solder lugs for exactly that purpose Mark

 

[MarkWComer]

MarkWCoomer
View attachment 40323
Couldn’t hold back any longer bro...

Okay... I have to ask...
Is this supposed to be me???

 

[AngrySailor]

Okay... I have to ask...
Is this supposed to be me???

“Coomer” is a meme been around a little while, every time I saw your name and avatar I always read it as “coomer” and there’s arguably some semblance... I finally realized it was actually “Comer”. Wasn’t trying to be a dick or anything, I just laughed at myself for getting it wrong all this time!

 

[FredR]

Ring terminals for the neutral bus: Yea or nay?

Need a BABB. Have some extras. PM.

 

[MarkWComer]

Need a BABB. Have some extras. PM.

I have a bunch, thanks!

 

[MarkWComer]

“Coomer” is a meme been around a little while, every time I saw your name and avatar I always read it as “coomer” and there’s arguably some semblance... I finally realized it was actually “Comer”. Wasn’t trying to be a dick or anything, I just laughed at myself for getting it wrong all this time!

Well, yeah, Comer is a bit uncommon and is similar to Coomer, no biggie, yer notta dick!

We’re German, our ancestral name was Gaumer, somehow anglicized to Comer.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

HUH?

 

[MarkWComer]

Someone proofread me for mistakes. For the time being, this vid is private, so give me a "Kosher" approval and I'll make it public. Thanks!

42 minutes, 10 seconds...

 

[wattsabundant]

Mark,

It's going to take a while to get through the entire video. In the mean time, the blue "fast on" lugs can accommodate up to 12 guage wire. I used a micrometer on the secondary lead of the transformer and it read .086 inches. 12 guage is .080" and 11 is .o90. I think it's safe to say the wire is 12 guage. Getting all of the snubber caps and AC wires in a blue lug would be difficult. However, the yellow lugs accommodate 10 guage wire and everything would fit. Getting everything lined up before crimping would be a challenge and wouldn't give much leeway for mistakes. If you go the way of the crimp lugs it would be dsired to use a ratcheting type crimper vs. the universal bolt cutter/wire stripper/crimper pliers type.

 

[Gepetto]

Mark,

It's going to take a while to get through the entire video. In the mean time, the blue "fast on" lugs can accommodate up to 12 guage wire. I used a micrometer on the secondary lead of the transformer and it read .086 inches. 12 guage is .080" and 11 is .o90. I think it's safe to say the wire is 12 guage. Getting all of the snubber caps and AC wires in a blue lug would be difficult. However, the yellow lugs accommodate 10 guage wire and everything would fit. Getting everything lined up before crimping would be a challenge and wouldn't give much leeway for mistakes. If you go the way of the crimp lugs it would be dsired to use a ratcheting type crimper vs. the universal bolt cutter/wire stripper/crimper pliers type.

Get the big yellow crimpers from AMP/Tyco, they will be a good companion to your Heyco pliers

 

[MarkWComer]

Mark,

It's going to take a while to get through the entire video. In the mean time, the blue "fast on" lugs can accommodate up to 12 guage wire. I used a micrometer on the secondary lead of the transformer and it read .086 inches. 12 guage is .080" and 11 is .o90. I think it's safe to say the wire is 12 guage. Getting all of the snubber caps and AC wires in a blue lug would be difficult. However, the yellow lugs accommodate 10 guage wire and everything would fit. Getting everything lined up before crimping would be a challenge and wouldn't give much leeway for mistakes. If you go the way of the crimp lugs it would be dsired to use a ratcheting type crimper vs. the universal bolt cutter/wire stripper/crimper pliers type.

Right.. too many “finger acrobatics” to use the quick lugs on the rectifier, decided against it. I assumed 14ga on the transformer wires without measuring, I just compared it against some other wire I had on hand. I considered the lugs for the sake of repairability in case of a rectifier failure, a possibility, but rectifiers don’t fail that often as far as I know.