Glen's 700 series II build

Na - she's pretty cool. She's put up with me for 30 years. She'd just kick my ass for fun.
 
Yeah, that was just in general Dennis.....mines uber-cool too...
 
I know.

Have you ever seen a Series II with the wood sides and the gun metal top? That is a hot enclosure. Speaking of hot.

Sorry Glen - I just can't help myself.
 

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I know.

Have you ever seen a Series II with the wood sides and the gun metal top? That is a hot enclosure. Speaking of hot.

Sorry Glen - I just can't help myself.

I better not show this form to my wife! LOL

She is a good sport so no problem here just may have to retire early.
 
I hope everyone had a good thanks giving regardless of the weeks craziness.
I have 7 kids and 14 grandkids on both the east and west coast. 5 kids and all grandkids were born in the good old USA. We had lots of conversation with them this week. We usually go to Oregon for Thanks giving but it did not workout this year.

So the week was a bust on this little project.

Got the Pl14-20 put together tonight. I will work on finishing backplates this weekend if all goes well
Post photos tomorrow with some added features.

Night all
 
control board

This looks complete now

:hello1:

I added some heat sinks to Q1 and Q2

Any one have preference for cleaning product to remove excess Soldering Rosin from Board?


IMG_2858.jpgIMG_2856.jpgIMG_2855.jpg
 
Thanks Joe
I will remove the diodes

Glen

Nice job. Heatsinks are not required on Q1 and Q2 but is does no harm. Those are sized primarily for the inrush current which you want to be fast for no thump on turn on.
 
Mod to Backplate

Here is the nearly completed mod for Series two

After narrowing the boards with a router on a router table I filed and sanded the edges to very fine finish .I looked for any copper trace jumping between layers before coating the edges with some 5 minute Epoxy. I double coated then to yield +/- 1/32 of coating.
The boards now have only about .005 -.010 clear

I then added a length of 1 mi Kapton tape to the frame ( anyone think I should double or triple thickness please let me know)

So now ready to put together
Thanks to Joe for all his tips and Eagle eyes (I missed omitting some Diodes) on this procedure I can now move forward.

edge after narrowing board.jpgFirst problem.jpgIMG_2864.jpgIMG_2865.jpgIMG_2860.jpg
 
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Here is the tape I used. Thanks Dennis

3M™ Polyimide Film Electrical Tape 92


Typical Value
US units (metric)
Color Amber
Adhesive Thermosetting Silicone
Backing Thickness 1.0 mils (0,025 mm)
Overall Thickness 3.0 mils (0,076 mm)
Tensile Strength 30 lbs / inch width (53 N / 10 mm)
Elongation (% at break) 55% minimum
Electrolytic Corrosion Factor
(3M internal test method) 1.0
Adhesion to Steel 25 oz / inch width (2,8 N / 10 mm)
Comparative Tracking Index
(IEC Method 112) CTI Group IIIb
Printable Yes
Dielectric Breakdown > 7,500 V
Insulation Resistance > 1,000,000 Ohms
 
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Here is the nearly completed mod for Series two

After narrowing the boards with a router on a router table I filed and sanded the edges to very fine finish .I looked for any copper trace jumping between layers before coating the edges with some 5 minute Epoxy. I double coated then to yield +/- 1/32 of coating.
The boards now have only about .005 -.010 clear

I then added a length of 1 mi Kapton tape to the frame ( anyone think I should double or triple thickness please let me know)

So now ready to put together
Thanks to Joe for all his tips and Eagle eyes (I missed omitting some Diodes) on this procedure I can now move forward.

View attachment 17681View attachment 17682View attachment 17683View attachment 17684View attachment 17685

His eyes have saved me from more than one disaster...
 
Here is the nearly completed mod for Series two

After narrowing the boards with a router on a router table I filed and sanded the edges to very fine finish .I looked for any copper trace jumping between layers before coating the edges with some 5 minute Epoxy. I double coated then to yield +/- 1/32 of coating.
The boards now have only about .005 -.010 clear

I then added a length of 1 mi Kapton tape to the frame ( anyone think I should double or triple thickness please let me know)

So now ready to put together
Thanks to Joe for all his tips and Eagle eyes (I missed omitting some Diodes) on this procedure I can now move forward.

View attachment 17681View attachment 17682View attachment 17683View attachment 17684View attachment 17685

Look at where that AC inlet sits, right on the sheet metal fold, Geez. That is a big production no-no. The reins must have been very tight at PL during that period of time.
 
Look at where that AC inlet sits, right on the sheet metal fold, Geez. That is a big production no-no. The reins must have been very tight at PL during that period of time.
I was going to use some sjoow 14/2 for the power cord and still may. I will have to rework that little bugger I guess.
 
Backplates with components

So we have the Backplates ready from wires now. I am of to my shop to change out the old 2n3403 cans.

I was a little confused about D2 but it appears it is not required any more. Am I correct?


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That will be a challenge Glen given that spacing...
Spot on Joe
I will have to deal with now .

Choices
-use original setup 16/2
-replace with 14/2 and open up the original chassis fitting
-put in new plug at fan plug

I am thinking the middle one.
 
Nice assembly work.

thanks
I haven't done this for a long time. Just a little repair hear and there.
I bough a dual pencil station - Weller 80 watt x2 setup for this job off Ebay ( my favorite store)
It is very helpful to get the heat when needed with two at a time and reduces overheating the component. I set one at 650 and the other at 690. Got quite good at feeding solder with one hand while holding the #2 iron. I can grap the lower temp one for smaller parts and the higher one for bigger items and both to get those jumpers and resistors glued to the backplate.


Cans are now switched from old 2n3403's

Off to cut wires
 
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