Garrard Type A II
- Thread starter Pure_Brew
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Well, it would seem so but they were more or less free and the tuner parts went to a competant technician, one who actually engineered a few noncommercial stations, especially in Portland, OR, and it was for her TX-5500 that she had heavily modded. It was worse for my repairman, who had to stand all the time, even for HDTVs and a lot of rear projection ('bigscreen') sets so he was forced to retire.
He gave me a Leader LAB-120B for that though...his kids may have accidentally put it somewhere that it got dumped but that probably wasn't hard given the amount of stuff in the shop. I wish I could have afforded some of his Sencore equipment but I understood he had to sell it for all it was worth.
Repairmen don't seem to last long around here. I had one who tried to teach me but he had a few people bring in expensive jobs, stiff him and then a rock went through the front window and they just took them. He couldn't justify his business after more than 35 years and two cities and his wife's used book store up front closed with it.
If you aren't talking about hunting and fishing he'll have no part of it now.
The vacuum repair guy tried his hand at it and quickly swore it off as well. I can't tell you if it's the crappy state of TVs now or clueless customers...OR BOTH.
I guess that also brings up the challange Jer can have if he'd like to try his hand at the SA-1040 that was in worse shape than the 520 and blew at least 3 output transistors and needs some switches worked on or replaced.
I know this is WOPL Central but I love Mr. Matsumoto's wonderful company. They are Everyman's High Fidelity brand, much like the British were back then.
He gave me a Leader LAB-120B for that though...his kids may have accidentally put it somewhere that it got dumped but that probably wasn't hard given the amount of stuff in the shop. I wish I could have afforded some of his Sencore equipment but I understood he had to sell it for all it was worth.
Repairmen don't seem to last long around here. I had one who tried to teach me but he had a few people bring in expensive jobs, stiff him and then a rock went through the front window and they just took them. He couldn't justify his business after more than 35 years and two cities and his wife's used book store up front closed with it.
If you aren't talking about hunting and fishing he'll have no part of it now.
The vacuum repair guy tried his hand at it and quickly swore it off as well. I can't tell you if it's the crappy state of TVs now or clueless customers...OR BOTH.
I guess that also brings up the challange Jer can have if he'd like to try his hand at the SA-1040 that was in worse shape than the 520 and blew at least 3 output transistors and needs some switches worked on or replaced.
I know this is WOPL Central but I love Mr. Matsumoto's wonderful company. They are Everyman's High Fidelity brand, much like the British were back then.
That's quite a story. I worked for 2 electronics retailers, both closed, both had service departments and I did see some pain. I forgot that I lost a Kloss Novabeam during that time. Sad to hear about the shop owners demise. Seems like everywhere I go business is shrinking, and as far as repair you have to drive into a city, ship or DIY. And it isn't recent. I've had a lot of different jobs since '86 and 90% are no longer in business. My brother went a different route and started a business early doing 3rd party circuit board design. Had a good run from the 1990's until tech took a dive a few years back and had to get a job. Now he's laid off just recently from there.
Pardon my ignorance but I'm not familiar with the Leader/Matsumoto references. Please enlighten me!
Pardon my ignorance but I'm not familiar with the Leader/Matsumoto references. Please enlighten me!
Friction
Since I lubricated all moving parts, swapped the idler,motor pulley,and platter, I now have a reliably operating machine.
However, i can tell the speed is off a little bit. I don't have a printer for a strobe, but my 78rpm strobe disc for the Victrola does indicate that it is a little slow.
There are 2 more things to do that I can see to help with this:
1)Clean/swap out bearings on the center spindle 2)Take down and lubricate motor (Joe pointed this out early on)
For today, I'm just going to focus on the spindle bearings.
On the functioning table, the platter will spin for a few revolutions, then stop. On the parts table, the platter will spin for almost a full 3 minutes! I could tell there was something quite different between the two with the platters removed before I tried it this way. The spindles spun by hand were dramatically different, and they were both equally lubricated.
At first I thought I would have to take the whole TT apart- NOT GOOD. But now I see there is an easy answer for removal of the spindle and bearings, just a couple screws:
Since I lubricated all moving parts, swapped the idler,motor pulley,and platter, I now have a reliably operating machine.
However, i can tell the speed is off a little bit. I don't have a printer for a strobe, but my 78rpm strobe disc for the Victrola does indicate that it is a little slow.
There are 2 more things to do that I can see to help with this:
1)Clean/swap out bearings on the center spindle 2)Take down and lubricate motor (Joe pointed this out early on)
For today, I'm just going to focus on the spindle bearings.
On the functioning table, the platter will spin for a few revolutions, then stop. On the parts table, the platter will spin for almost a full 3 minutes! I could tell there was something quite different between the two with the platters removed before I tried it this way. The spindles spun by hand were dramatically different, and they were both equally lubricated.
At first I thought I would have to take the whole TT apart- NOT GOOD. But now I see there is an easy answer for removal of the spindle and bearings, just a couple screws:
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Lol.
Thanks for the replies.
This was a bit of a pain in the ass job. When you pull the spindle, all the washers are sitting there loose, along with the bearings. Damn good thing I have a magnetic probe as those tiny bearings nearly got away from me. Putting them back in was like the operation game, only a lot harder.
Visually speaking, it was hard to tell any difference. There may have been a little wear on the thrust washers on the slower spinning of the two decks. However, this set does spin with a bit more freedom so it's in. Cleaned all the parts and relubricated. The only benefit I can see at this point is a piece of mind that I have addressed the spindle. But without a precise measurement, I can't tell a whole lot. When I first fired it up on 78rpm, it looked just about dead on. Now it isn't.
Also, it was a bit stiff with the changing as the replacement gear needed a bit of grease. The idler I was excited over is showing its age on usage. Getting shiney rubber on it. Haven't spent much on all this, but if I go for a idler rebuild, I'd be spending about $60.
Thanks for the replies.
This was a bit of a pain in the ass job. When you pull the spindle, all the washers are sitting there loose, along with the bearings. Damn good thing I have a magnetic probe as those tiny bearings nearly got away from me. Putting them back in was like the operation game, only a lot harder.
Visually speaking, it was hard to tell any difference. There may have been a little wear on the thrust washers on the slower spinning of the two decks. However, this set does spin with a bit more freedom so it's in. Cleaned all the parts and relubricated. The only benefit I can see at this point is a piece of mind that I have addressed the spindle. But without a precise measurement, I can't tell a whole lot. When I first fired it up on 78rpm, it looked just about dead on. Now it isn't.
Also, it was a bit stiff with the changing as the replacement gear needed a bit of grease. The idler I was excited over is showing its age on usage. Getting shiney rubber on it. Haven't spent much on all this, but if I go for a idler rebuild, I'd be spending about $60.
The table no longer is running slow. Actually, it's a bit faster. The differences I'm hearing must be wow/flutter. I took out a Shure 33 1/3 test LP. The 1000hz test gives me 1014hz to 1030hz, approximately. Probably not so bad on a rig like this. I can keep tweaking it. Could be a wobble in the idler or the two platters may need to be rebalanced a bit.
Thanks, I'm actually pleased with some things it does. For one, some old records sound nice on this. Better then on the technics 1800/ AT440mla. But opposite for finer newer recordings. I ordered the stylus from JICO for the Shure M3D. Maybe a cart like that or the SC35C will be a smart headshell swap on the Technics for old records. I have a Pickering U38 too I might play with.
If anything it's fun to mess with. I keep thinking of more I can do, like rewire the headshell and arm. Perhaps in time. I really need to get a plinth on this. Not picky.
I'd like to make a tape off this at some point, just old records.
If anything it's fun to mess with. I keep thinking of more I can do, like rewire the headshell and arm. Perhaps in time. I really need to get a plinth on this. Not picky.
I'd like to make a tape off this at some point, just old records.
Ok so it might be a bit of a stretch to say this sounds better then my Technics SL-1800, but I did hear a few really nice sounds coming out of this, like some old Sinatra...Christmas music etc.
Anyway, I decided to finally swap out the idler. I sent it in to Terry's Rubber Rollers, and it's just what the TT needed to maintain truly solid performance, especially on changing.
When I say, just what was needed, I'm somehow reminded that "what's needed" equates to "more money", like every audio gear related thing I run into lol.
The idler also helps quiet things down. The harder old rubber would make a bit of light ringing inside the inner platter, also adding additional noise to be picked up by the stylus/cartridge.
The pic shows the new rubber (a bit gluey where it has been reattached). Also, the brass on the speed pulley is in nice shape. This pulley was sourced off a parts TT, you can see it has the fine ribs on it still. (the original was worn smooth on 33rpm)
Anyway, I decided to finally swap out the idler. I sent it in to Terry's Rubber Rollers, and it's just what the TT needed to maintain truly solid performance, especially on changing.
When I say, just what was needed, I'm somehow reminded that "what's needed" equates to "more money", like every audio gear related thing I run into lol.
The idler also helps quiet things down. The harder old rubber would make a bit of light ringing inside the inner platter, also adding additional noise to be picked up by the stylus/cartridge.
The pic shows the new rubber (a bit gluey where it has been reattached). Also, the brass on the speed pulley is in nice shape. This pulley was sourced off a parts TT, you can see it has the fine ribs on it still. (the original was worn smooth on 33rpm)
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Try this search, Joe...bound to be a pretty plinth in that mess for ya...
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p4069.m570.l1313&_nkw=garrard+plinth&_sacat=0&_from=R40
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p4069.m570.l1313&_nkw=garrard+plinth&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Thanks Again!
$20 bill for a parts deck will complete this. Those 301/401 are in a different league altogether. I have the schematic for a plinth top. The "A" is basically the same as the "AII", except the springs fit a bit different. Only need something basic, a box with cut outs. Without a shop it's no can do. However, I might be able to clean up this old drawer "box" it's in.
Got some Handel on this am. $1.50 for the box set. May grab a few more.
Got some Handel on this am. $1.50 for the box set. May grab a few more.
Well...you can't get a Chaska hooker for $20 but Joe can do anything else...
As the man to do 75% of anything under $50 you have my vote of confidence!
As the man to do 75% of anything under $50 you have my vote of confidence!
Got the parts deck for $20. That's replacement brass speed pulley, outer platter, bearings and a Shure M3D cart that's probably worth more then this whole table fixed up. Plus those piecemeal parts would have cost a bunch by them selves. Oh and the spiffy dust cover and single play spindle to-boot.
But I got lucky. Maybe that's why I don't need hookers. Maybe I'll get lucky again...
lol?