Double WOPL with Squeeze Builds by TheWiffer

Clip the bad cap off the board. On the exposed pads check continuity to ground.
 
I think the cap was crap... Maybe??? I have gotten bad parts before.... not to uncommon. I once bought a condom (NEW) that had a hole in it. Ha....
 
After C2 shot at me this morning, I decided it was safer to pound beers and throw darts. I'll hit the WOPL again in the morning. If it's acting stupid, I may disassemble it and call CSI.... Thanks guys for the help....
 
TheWOPLwhiffer said:
I think the cap was crap... Maybe??? I have gotten bad parts before.... not to uncommon. I once bought a condom (NEW) that had a hole in it. Ha....
Click to expand...

Hi Perry it blew because a fuse blew, not because the cap was defective. Those electrolytics were made optional to prevent what you experienced from occurring in the case of a build problem during initial bring up. They are not needed in the circuit and are a distraction when you run into a problem.

The rail voltage bypass function they serve has been replaced by the larger PP non-polar caps that are now on the BOM.
 
It was kind weird, The Amp came up as it should, just no -15 (maybe the whole neg rail was missing) but it ran for an hour. When I slipped off the -15 and blew all the parts, then it decided to pop a fuse and cap much later. I'll ohm the board in the am and compare it to the right side. I'll find it... I made a mouser order this morning to replace the other kits parts. I may have to get another soldering iron to pull the left side...

Peace
 
TheWOPLwhiffer said:
It was kind weird, The Amp came up as it should, just no -15 (maybe the whole neg rail was missing) but it ran for an hour. When I slipped off the -15 and blew all the parts, then it decided to pop a fuse and cap much later. I'll ohm the board in the am and compare it to the right side. I'll find it... I made a mouser order this morning to replace the other kits parts. I may have to get another soldering iron to pull the left side...

Peace
Click to expand...

Why do you need another soldering iron??
 
Perry, got your light plate, looks AWESOME thank you!!!!! Now I just need a WOPL'd 700B to mount it!!!
 
The solder cups that make the alignment of the TO-3 leads such a pain in the butt, and required the MTPI tool, are a slip fit fitting so that we don't have to solder the leads to the boards. The Rev A boards we did, not so with the B boards with the slip fit, teeny tiny solder cups. That's a new one, that one I haven't done yet. Although I have put the 6-32 standoffs on the wrong side of the board.
 
TheWOPLwhiffer said:
WTF? Step 26 says to solder them in. These assembly notes are killing me
Click to expand...

Hi Perry

2 build options are offered as explained in the release notes which come with each new product revision.


  1. Revision B allows either socketed connection to the Base and Emitter leads via the solder installation of precision, mil quality gold-plated socket cups into the Backplane boards OR solder connection to the TO-3 Base and Emitter leads.
  2. If solder in method is chosen, TO-3 Transistor Base and Emitter leads solder directly into plated through holes with generous clearance to allow easy swap out for service, if required. Eliminates original, low-cost sockets and the attendant intermittent connections that are common with the original aging transistor sockets in PL700 amps. Extremely reliable output transistor connections with either the socket cups or direct solder.

I will amplify step 26 to clarify that this is ONLY if you choose the direct solder method of assembly instead of the socket cups.
 
Gepetto said:
Hi Perry

2 build options are offered as explained in the release notes which come with each new product revision.


  1. Revision B allows either socketed connection to the Base and Emitter leads via the solder installation of precision, mil quality gold-plated socket cups into the Backplane boards OR solder connection to the TO-3 Base and Emitter leads.
  2. If solder in method is chosen, TO-3 Transistor Base and Emitter leads solder directly into plated through holes with generous clearance to allow easy swap out for service, if required. Eliminates original, low-cost sockets and the attendant intermittent connections that are common with the original aging transistor sockets in PL700 amps. Extremely reliable output transistor connections with either the socket cups or direct solder.

I will amplify step 26 to clarify that this is ONLY if you choose the direct solder method of assembly instead of the socket cups.
Click to expand...

See Joe, this is what I was talking about. It does NOT say "soldering is optional". This step just cost me some serious hours. You should be supplying new updated notes and boms with each kit so dummies like me don't fuck up. If I didn't ask about the updated Bom, I would be scratching my head for another few hours.
 
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