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Derek92994's 700 Ser II White Oak conversion
- Thread starter laatsch55
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Hey Darcy - here's a link that provides a good explanation of NPN and PNP transistor testing.
https://forums.phxaudiotape.com/thr...cs-thanks-to-markthefixer-and-echowars.10000/
https://forums.phxaudiotape.com/thr...cs-thanks-to-markthefixer-and-echowars.10000/
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Acurus RL11 arrived today. Been busy testing and checking, then installing into the setup. Can run it direct to WOPL or via a switch box if I want to switch between it and the P 3600. Did some A/B listening like this. switching real time, carefully tested with WOPL pots down low at first, to make sure no loud pops occurred when alternating between the 2 pre's.
Comparing the 2 with completely flat/bypassed settings, I notice the 3600 has a very slight 'coloring' or different character in the bass department, this is not a bad thing, as I really like how it sounds. Apart from this the 2 pre's are quite close, both sound great. I don't have the equipment to measure noise levels however. Sit back and enjoy the music!
The remote control for volume and balance is a god send, it really helps to be able to adjust these from the listening position. There is also a mute and power on/off function. Using a universal remote for this, as it was not included in the sale.
In regards to 'loudness' and 'tone controls', I have been doing a lot of listening without any of these over the past few weeks (Using the P 3600), I am surprised how good many albums sound. In a sense I have 're-calibrated' my ears to completely flat listening, have adjusted to that quite well. At first it was a bit of a challenge, but the reward of better sound quality is nice. Now the Acurus has arrived, it is not difficult to go without Tone or Loudness controls. It is also easy to switch between the two Preamps should I require tone controls at any point in time. Direct connection is preferred over the switch box method, however it is all setup depending on what I want to do. Good to have options.
Been switching back and forth between the WOPL and the T-Amps in a Bi-Amped configuration. The T's are run purely from 2x individual deep cycle batteries. This is during the mostly 'flat' listening over the past month or so. The WOPL having incredible clarity, power, and insane amounts of headroom. The T's having a "Tube" like sound with clean power 'up to a point', which is strange as they are a 'digital' amp, how on earth does a digital amp sound 'tubey'? The tri-path chip in those really has a lot to offer, at regular listening levels, its very clean and full sounding.
The WOPL will stay on the Jamo speaks, and the T's are going to be bi-amped into JBL 4311b's, once some stands have been built for them. The 5.1 surround setup will remain the same, but I cannot use the sub woofer, it blows out my tinnitus for some strange reason. Traditional speakers will have to be used to provide bass.
Now for some Acurus and setup pics. What do you think fellas? Original Capacitors?
Comparing the 2 with completely flat/bypassed settings, I notice the 3600 has a very slight 'coloring' or different character in the bass department, this is not a bad thing, as I really like how it sounds. Apart from this the 2 pre's are quite close, both sound great. I don't have the equipment to measure noise levels however. Sit back and enjoy the music!
The remote control for volume and balance is a god send, it really helps to be able to adjust these from the listening position. There is also a mute and power on/off function. Using a universal remote for this, as it was not included in the sale.
In regards to 'loudness' and 'tone controls', I have been doing a lot of listening without any of these over the past few weeks (Using the P 3600), I am surprised how good many albums sound. In a sense I have 're-calibrated' my ears to completely flat listening, have adjusted to that quite well. At first it was a bit of a challenge, but the reward of better sound quality is nice. Now the Acurus has arrived, it is not difficult to go without Tone or Loudness controls. It is also easy to switch between the two Preamps should I require tone controls at any point in time. Direct connection is preferred over the switch box method, however it is all setup depending on what I want to do. Good to have options.
Been switching back and forth between the WOPL and the T-Amps in a Bi-Amped configuration. The T's are run purely from 2x individual deep cycle batteries. This is during the mostly 'flat' listening over the past month or so. The WOPL having incredible clarity, power, and insane amounts of headroom. The T's having a "Tube" like sound with clean power 'up to a point', which is strange as they are a 'digital' amp, how on earth does a digital amp sound 'tubey'? The tri-path chip in those really has a lot to offer, at regular listening levels, its very clean and full sounding.
The WOPL will stay on the Jamo speaks, and the T's are going to be bi-amped into JBL 4311b's, once some stands have been built for them. The 5.1 surround setup will remain the same, but I cannot use the sub woofer, it blows out my tinnitus for some strange reason. Traditional speakers will have to be used to provide bass.
Now for some Acurus and setup pics. What do you think fellas? Original Capacitors?
Hey Derek, excellent photos, I'm going to download them and refer to them for my PLacurus2000 project as I had some questions about the ground planes.
I've always run my PL amps "flat" without any enhancements switched on, and agree they sound great.
From all the research I've been doing, yours appears to be stock and untouched. I read some about the upgrades on these, and personally, I'd leave it stock. Maybe recap the electrolytics at a later time when your really bored and looking for something to do.
You got a nice pre.
I've always run my PL amps "flat" without any enhancements switched on, and agree they sound great.
From all the research I've been doing, yours appears to be stock and untouched. I read some about the upgrades on these, and personally, I'd leave it stock. Maybe recap the electrolytics at a later time when your really bored and looking for something to do.
You got a nice pre.
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Thanks George.
The loudness thing started at a very young age for me, when I had shit components. Stereos always sounded better with it switched on, but I knew nothing about sound quality back then. I am 43 now so it took some adjusting, I found if I really listen, there was plenty of bass there without loudness, instead of it being 'boomy' and 'in your face'.
Yes certainly eyeing off those Electrolytics. It sounds fine and is very quiet in stock form, still tempted to replace with new, although how much difference does it really make unless the cap is outright 'failing'? For now I will be enjoying the listening.
That PLAcurus2000 project looks complex, wishing you luck with that and keen to see progress
The loudness thing started at a very young age for me, when I had shit components. Stereos always sounded better with it switched on, but I knew nothing about sound quality back then. I am 43 now so it took some adjusting, I found if I really listen, there was plenty of bass there without loudness, instead of it being 'boomy' and 'in your face'.
Yes certainly eyeing off those Electrolytics. It sounds fine and is very quiet in stock form, still tempted to replace with new, although how much difference does it really make unless the cap is outright 'failing'? For now I will be enjoying the listening.
That PLAcurus2000 project looks complex, wishing you luck with that and keen to see progress
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I recapped my L10 (nearly the same, no remote), stuck a bigger tranny in it, and a couple other things and it was better, but was not a big change at all. Must be built fairly good from factory, normally would notice a bigger difference with the amount of upgrades I did. It is an easy one to work on though if you go that route.
Those big, yellow Mexican coupling caps are reported to have the largest impact on sound quality from Aragon/Acurus components than any other change made to them. They are in my 47k and were in my D2A. I'm guessing good bang for the buck back in the day, but I'm sure some red Mundorfs would be quite welcome in there.
I went with some modern film caps in my D2A (Kemet 10uf / 5% / 400V for the D2A) as they are a decent brand, and this tolerance is tighter. Less cost than Mundorf as well of course... And they physically fit. I have not listened yet, but I felt if I did hear the difference on a select few well-known CDs moving it in the right direction I'd spring for the German stuff next, unless I replace the entire converter with a parallel ESS chip one, which is probably better spending of money...
I went with some modern film caps in my D2A (Kemet 10uf / 5% / 400V for the D2A) as they are a decent brand, and this tolerance is tighter. Less cost than Mundorf as well of course... And they physically fit. I have not listened yet, but I felt if I did hear the difference on a select few well-known CDs moving it in the right direction I'd spring for the German stuff next, unless I replace the entire converter with a parallel ESS chip one, which is probably better spending of money...
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