Cory's Phase Linear 300 Ser II

[laatsch55]

Left channel out, gotta love modular driver boards.

 

[laatsch55]

The culprits, unfortunatly, the same outputs used by the Pioneer SX 1980, so all spares have been scarfed up years ago. There is a seller on e-bay selling these for 70.00 a pair, and they look genuine, hopefully the Edster has some stashed.

 

[laatsch55]

Got a set of outputs finally, and a 12" X 12" sil-pad to cut some for the outputs. It has an LF-351 op-amp in the front end of each channel. I have some Burr-Brown OPA-134PA's i'm gonna try.

 

[jbeckva]

The culprits, unfortunatly, the same outputs used by the Pioneer SX 1980, so all spares have been scarfed up years ago. There is a seller on e-bay selling these for 70.00 a pair, and they look genuine, hopefully the Edster has some stashed.

What are those things - darlington's or somethin?

 

[laatsch55]

No, they are a large BJT, the extra leg is another collector tap to spread the load. Remember these also were the outputs for the Pioneer SX 1980. 270 WPC. A little current flows in that bugger.

 

[jbeckva]

Yow...

 

[laatsch55]

I'm thinkin I'll mount sockets and do a before and after on noise.

 

[laatsch55]

Cory had requested an on/off switch and I had originally talked him out of it. All the pushbuttons I have are only rated for 3 amps at the most. Soooo, that would require a relay, and a mount, and some rewiring, QUIT BEIN A PUSSY LAATSCH AND DO IT!!! OK, OK, drilling holes in faceplates is tedious... QUIT BEIN A PUSSY LAATSCH AND DO IT!!... So, I'm gonna do it. layed out the cut for the relay socket and for the button hole in the faceplate. The button will be inline with the on/off LED. The relay is a 120 volt coil, 10 amp rated contacts, which I will parallel to split the load.

 

[laatsch55]

To make a square hole, you drill on the 4 corners, then dremel with a cutoff blade, then hand fileto square. the sockets I had did not have mounting bosses with holes. They have one of those one way snap retainers. Holds ok, but they get destroyed taking them off.

 

[laatsch55]

Pilot hole drilled in faceplate. The button mikes at .382, the closest drill is 25/64.The question is, go smaller in case there's a problem you have enough meat left to straighten it out and risk taking too little on the last cut and hang up and make a bigger mess?? OR NUT UP AND TAKE THE SHOT???? Go for it. It's a neater cut going one time, and also irreversible.

 

[speakerman1]

Cory had requested an on/off switch and I had originally talked him out of it. All the pushbuttons I have are only rated for 3 amps at the most. Soooo, that would require a relay, and a mount, and some rewiring, QUIT BEIN A PUSSY LAATSCH AND DO IT!!! OK, OK, drilling holes in faceplates is tedious... QUIT BEIN A PUSSY LAATSCH AND DO IT!!... So, I'm gonna do it. layed out the cut for the relay socket and for the button hole in the faceplate. The button will be inline with the on/off LED. The relay is a 120 volt coil, 10 amp rated contacts, which I will parallel to split the load.

That 1st hole you need a new drill bit. LOL I like doing that stuff. When you do new cuts and stuff. Laying out patterns. I loved doing it. One try. Their were no oops.

 

[speakerman1]

Pilot hole drilled in faceplate. The button mikes at .382, the closest drill is 25/64.The question is, go smaller in case there's a problem you have enough meat left to straighten it out and risk taking too little on the last cut and hang up and make a bigger mess?? OR NUT UP AND TAKE THE SHOT???? Go for it. It's a neater cut going one time, and also irreversible.

If your scared say your scared. LOL Make it a tight fit. Cut leaving the line. File works great fitting it.

 

[laatsch55]

Here Larrt----me scarit?? Not a chance!! Took er in one shot,.

 

[speakerman1]

Cool. LOL Hey sometimes ya jest bight the bullet and go. LOL

 

[laatsch55]

Amen Buddy!!

 

[laatsch55]

Ya can't have the switch hangin in the air, so here's my solution.

 

[laatsch55]

Switch and relay in and wired up. Tested good.

 

[laatsch55]

Got the machined 8 pin DIP sockets in. Still have to cut some sil-pad to fit these 4 legged beasties. Waited week to get a 12" X 12" sil-pad. New outputs ready to go. When it got here it had 3 of the 4 blown. Was lucky to find these.

 

[laatsch55]

ready to be tested with the LM 351's in the sockets. the AP is warming up.

 

[NavLinear]

Looks like a Factory Build

Shit Lee - that switch looks like a factory installed job. I like the way you beveled the hole. Using a relay is another great idea and using multiple contacts will lengthen the relay's life.

Are those output transistors still made/available for purchase?

Some nice solutions for this repair. Cory will be one happy guy when he gets this unit back.