BIG problems

No it's not. There are some amps that all you will do is piss off the soft start, a variac is especially useful. Take it to 20%, wait for the bulb tro dim, walk it up another 20%, etc...
 
Alright then. It`s got a volt and ammeter, what kind of current draw would be deemed acceptable at the various voltages?

Should I bolt the heat sinks on with only the drivers running?
 
Can't mount the TO-3's without the heatsinks! Do you have the meter on each side of R38??
 
I'm working till about 2 in the afterniin tomorrow. Good amping!!
 
Michael F said:
DBT passes, however, 40vdc on right output, .022 on left:confused2:
Click to expand...

Plus or minus on both readings. Polarity matters to help debug what might be your problem.

Assuming the 0.022V is really -0.022V The offset is typically in the slight negative direction due to the bias current of the front end differential pair.
 
Did you check that Q6 (2N3403) was good on both channels before starting?
 
And if you have 40VDC in the outputb terminals and it is not blowing fuses it's usually contained in the board.
 
Gepetto said:
Plus or minus on both readings. Polarity matters to help debug what might be your problem.

Assuming the 0.022V is really -0.022V The offset is typically in the slight negative direction due to the bias current of the front end differential pair.
Click to expand...

Plus on both readings
 
Have you double checked the pinouts? Solder bridges? Did you replace any of the diodes? And double check the back to back you put on C6 to make sure they're going opposite of each other.
 
Good enough for a reference, yes. Q4 should not have been used for Q4. Q4 is the hardest working TO-92 in there. The e-bay seller should know that. It'll do to get you up and running, but it's not something that inspires a medal for reliability. Are you sure about Q6's number??
 
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