700B blew one Right channel 5A supply fuse

laatsch55

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#61
Good job Gary. You're getting them ferreted out. I am going to send you a complete set of transistors for both sides of the board. Q4 is a TO-92 form factor sitting right beside Q3, I was giving you numbers of what it SHOULD be , obviously it's something different...

Capacitors. There are a number of things you can do to help the factory board out. One of them is changing C6 to a 470uf/25 volt AUDIO GRADE cap, and then to eliminate the "latch up" tendency, add some 1N4148 diodes to the leads on the back of the board, this explains it..http://forums.phxaudiotape.com/show...-latch-up-tendency-in-Phase-Linear-Amplifiers

The rest of the electrolytic caps should be changed also and these will be in the box with the transistors.

The heatsinked RCA 40412V's were actually pretty robust, and the heatsinking adequate so I would suggest leaving them alone. There is a viable sub in the 2N3439 but it also will take a good heatsink, the 2N3439 is a better transistor by far so it will be in the bag with the appropriate heatsink also.
If a 2N1304, or 2N1305 went south then D9, or D10 went also, so there will be a handfull of 1N4148's in with the rest of the stuff.

The changing of C6's value greatly improves the low frequency response of this amplifier. I will also send the rest of the electro's to change out on the board. All diodes can be checked in circuit except D13, which will test at .079 or .080 both ways. One end of D1 or D2 will have to be pulled to test D1 and D2. One end of D4 or D5 will have to be pulled to test D4 and D5. The rest will test in circuit.

The 1N4004 diodes on the backwall are probably ok but with all the shorts you have the end of the left 1N4004 on each back wall will have to removed to test. Take em out anyway, I have had an amp returened because I didn't go with my gut feeling and did NOT replace that 5 cent part. Those will also be in the box I send.

The output transistors should be removed, the white goo cleaned up along with the transistor leads and new silpads put in their place, I will send 25 of those.
I need the values of C3, they can be different depending on which PL 14 variant you have...
 

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#62
Wow, that's some kind of help you offer.

Finding C3 took some time. There are 3 schematics in the service manual pertaining to this amp. The one I was following, dated Set 9, 1974 seemed to include this amp's serial number, but for the life of me, I cannot find a C3. Looking at an undated different schematic that does not seem to contain this amp's serial number, there is a C3 in close proximity to Q3 & Q4. It appears to be identified on the diagram as 4'1/100. Might be wrong, but the capacitor on the board I believe it to be is a 100 MFD 25V.
 

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#63
100uf is one of the options. C3 will be on the very left of the left hand side of the board and for the right channel about in the middle 2/3'rds the way down.. and it's not all that much help, I have thousands of some of those parts...
 

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#64
If that's so, then I looked at the wrong cap.

C3 is the largest cap, The schematic label I thought to be 4'1 is actually 47 so 47 MFD 100V.
 

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#66
The other electrolytics on the lower half of the board are all 50 MFD 35V.

Still wondering at the diagram discrepancies. I shall disregard the one with no C3 and use the digram that includes it.

Is Phase Linear know for doing on the fly modifications - adding or deleting circuit components?
 

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#67
Infamous for it. The circuit is very forgiving of some subs and others are super critical. What I send you will all be tried and true componeents and values that have always worked. Ya might PM me your address...for you are about to receive a famous "laatsch55 care package" very good stuff...
 

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#68
That is exceedingly generous and I'm sure I'll have questions once I receive it. What can I offer in compensation?

I'll PM you my address.

Thanks!
 

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#69
Believe it or not...30.00 covers most everything on that board, if you don't have to get it from those who think obsolete means expensive....
 

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If the shipping addess is in Canada, wait until you get the package, if it's in Sumas you can send it now. A care package bound for Toronto is still MIA and that was months ago....
 

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#73
Sending to Sumas is fine, usually much quicker.

Bought a pair of tweeters once from a US seller. After a few weeks of no show, I got hold of the guy who swore up and down they were shipped. Thinking MIA, I see a pair 3 months later for sale from Montreal and buy them. Got those in 4 days but ironically, the very next day, the first ones showed up.
 
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62vauxhall

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#75
Before I order a Mallory 10,000 MFD 100V as a mate to the one installed in 2010, is there any point putting in putting in 2 larger capacitors?

I ask because the shipped cost of a single Mallory is $58 and a local parts store, who are unsure of the brand, have 15,000 MFD 100V capacitors for $38 each. Physically they are the same diameter but shorter length than either the 2010 Mallory or the remaining original which are the same size - about 4".
 

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#76
What Mallory is in there now?? And if at all possible a rating of more than 100 volts is preferred. What is your rail voltage measurements, they can vary quite a bit...?
 

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#77
Sorry Gary, 100volt/10,000 gotcha.

We have put upwards of 22,000uf/100 voltcaps. We had a group buy of 160volt/15,000uf caps and I've put them in 2 700's so far. We paid 30.00 each for those. I can put 2 of those in the box too...
 

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#78
The single Mallory is US made 10,000 MFD 100V and the remaining original is a 9800 MFD 100V Sangamd also US made.

Not sure how to check rail voltage. Would it be the 90V measured at the right channel speaker terminal?
 

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#79
No, that should not be there anyway. Negative lead on the PS cap bus bar then positive lead to the other post on each cap. The one with the red wite will be a positive voltage and the one with the black wire a negative voltage.

Another investment which will save your butt is a DIM BULB TESTER..... a 100 watt incandescent light bulb hooked in series with the amp power cord. When powering up after a repair, the filaments will absorb any excess current draw in case somehing isn't right, VERY handy when used in conjunction with a variac, but not absolutely necessary to have the variac part...
 

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#80
I got 103V at the positve terminal of the Mallory cap and -103V at the original's positive terminal.

I've got AC plugs & sockets so can make a dim bulb tester - don't have a variac. Would like one but beyond my budget. I haven't done enough of this stuff to justify the investment.
 
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