700/1 “Tim” WOPL driver board

Yep, sure looks like that is what they were doing. One set straight to the board and the other set from the jacks to pots to board.. It's been a few years since I had a Series 1 apart... bear with me bud.

You can do this with one set of jacks and the switch. remove the direct set..
 
laatsch55 said:
Yep, sure looks like that is what they were doing. One set straight to the board and the other set from the jacks to pots to board.. It's been a few years since I had a Series 1 apart... bear with me bud.

You can do this with one set of jacks and the switch. remove the direct set..
Click to expand...
I think that would
Make sense, one set of jacks, tag the caps in with the switch. Am I reading this 220k without the .47 and 100k with the caps and level pots? If that’s the case do I need 100k resistors or is THAT the level pot? I’m not real familiar with reading these old schematics but it sure looks to me
Like they got an extra 100k resistor in there? No rush, getting it right it more important.
 
What’s the

R3
1R

? If that’s what it says

and what’s the 100k to ground perpendicular to the .47 in the PL drawing then? That’s what’s confusing me.
 

Attachments

  • 1F8F34BE-5EAE-42CD-921C-C21C9E0234CA.png
    1F8F34BE-5EAE-42CD-921C-C21C9E0234CA.png
    2.8 MB · Views: 5
R2 100k on the board
R4 is the volume pot
What’s R3?
 
Not needed with the WO board, just the input from the pots, inputs through the Direct/normal switch with one way through the cap, other withouit the cap. You should be able to wire the switch the same way I did on the pic i linked...
 
laatsch55 said:
Not needed with the WO board, just the input from the pots, inputs through the Direct/normal switch with one way through the cap, other withouit the cap. You should be able to wire the switch the same way I did on the pic i linked...
Click to expand...
Ok that’s pretty much what I figured, just didn’t want to make a big oopsie. Going with one set of RCA’s makes the switch and cap functional and ditches 12” of
Signal wire inside the amp, also doesn’t require changing plugs to use the switch.
I gotta just shit or get off the pot on this... clean a few things up and start installing WOPL goodies.
 
I guess im viewing this as a learning experience so want to know what’s up as I go along rather than just plug and play. Joes instructions were very clear but the 700/1 had a few differences I just wanted to understand before blindly soldering stuff up.
 
This amp has been molested some but I checked out the output sockets today, cleaned a bit of white goo in the house but spent some time innashop packing up other long term projects to reclaim some bench space. I’ll take Tim out tomorrow and hit him up with some harsher cleaner and compressed air for a final clean. Not one broken TO3 socket, found one bad connection at the power switch/light junction and one wire with bad insulation to a thermal switch that needs to be changed. Otherwise looks ok. Should I take the 4x 4uf caps out of circuit on the back plane and test them while im here? Anything else before installing the board and starting bring up?
 
AngrySailor said:
This amp has been molested some but I checked out the output sockets today, cleaned a bit of white goo in the house but spent some time innashop packing up other long term projects to reclaim some bench space. I’ll take Tim out tomorrow and hit him up with some harsher cleaner and compressed air for a final clean. Not one broken TO3 socket, found one bad connection at the power switch/light junction and one wire with bad insulation to a thermal switch that needs to be changed. Otherwise looks ok. Should I take the 4x 4uf caps out of circuit on the back plane and test them while im here? Anything else before installing the board and starting bring up?
Click to expand...


Leave those caps on the backwall..
 
Them big paper Mallory caps, looks like from output collector bus to the terminal strip yea
 

Attachments

  • E96D7294-BB6C-4FC7-BB65-D32ABC736AC7.jpeg
    E96D7294-BB6C-4FC7-BB65-D32ABC736AC7.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 8
laatsch55 said:
Yeah. They can stay for now
..
Click to expand...
Ok we just wondering if I should test em while they’re easy to get. I get that caps sometimes aren’t critical as is “YOU GOTTA RE-CAP!” But them old looking paper caps I figured be worth a test if needed while
Easy.

“stay for now” as in till you guys make me full comp my 700/1;)
 
AngrySailor said:
I’m confused about the PL drawing and the level pots. Looks like direct bypasses the pots but I haven’t ohmed it out yet (my bad)
Click to expand...

The one set of RCA jacks marked DC Input bypasses the POT when the switch is put in that direct mode. They changed that on the 700B where both normal and direct route through the volume pots.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top