700/1 “Tim” WOPL driver board

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
Yep, sure looks like that is what they were doing. One set straight to the board and the other set from the jacks to pots to board.. It's been a few years since I had a Series 1 apart... bear with me bud.

You can do this with one set of jacks and the switch. remove the direct set..
 

AngrySailor

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Oct 15, 2014
Messages
3,419
Tagline
---not quite right
Yep, sure looks like that is what they were doing. One set straight to the board and the other set from the jacks to pots to board.. It's been a few years since I had a Series 1 apart... bear with me bud.

You can do this with one set of jacks and the switch. remove the direct set..
I think that would
Make sense, one set of jacks, tag the caps in with the switch. Am I reading this 220k without the .47 and 100k with the caps and level pots? If that’s the case do I need 100k resistors or is THAT the level pot? I’m not real familiar with reading these old schematics but it sure looks to me
Like they got an extra 100k resistor in there? No rush, getting it right it more important.
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
Not needed with the WO board, just the input from the pots, inputs through the Direct/normal switch with one way through the cap, other withouit the cap. You should be able to wire the switch the same way I did on the pic i linked...
 

AngrySailor

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Oct 15, 2014
Messages
3,419
Tagline
---not quite right
Not needed with the WO board, just the input from the pots, inputs through the Direct/normal switch with one way through the cap, other withouit the cap. You should be able to wire the switch the same way I did on the pic i linked...
Ok that’s pretty much what I figured, just didn’t want to make a big oopsie. Going with one set of RCA’s makes the switch and cap functional and ditches 12” of
Signal wire inside the amp, also doesn’t require changing plugs to use the switch.
I gotta just shit or get off the pot on this... clean a few things up and start installing WOPL goodies.
 

AngrySailor

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Oct 15, 2014
Messages
3,419
Tagline
---not quite right
I guess im viewing this as a learning experience so want to know what’s up as I go along rather than just plug and play. Joes instructions were very clear but the 700/1 had a few differences I just wanted to understand before blindly soldering stuff up.
 

AngrySailor

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Oct 15, 2014
Messages
3,419
Tagline
---not quite right
This amp has been molested some but I checked out the output sockets today, cleaned a bit of white goo in the house but spent some time innashop packing up other long term projects to reclaim some bench space. I’ll take Tim out tomorrow and hit him up with some harsher cleaner and compressed air for a final clean. Not one broken TO3 socket, found one bad connection at the power switch/light junction and one wire with bad insulation to a thermal switch that needs to be changed. Otherwise looks ok. Should I take the 4x 4uf caps out of circuit on the back plane and test them while im here? Anything else before installing the board and starting bring up?
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
This amp has been molested some but I checked out the output sockets today, cleaned a bit of white goo in the house but spent some time innashop packing up other long term projects to reclaim some bench space. I’ll take Tim out tomorrow and hit him up with some harsher cleaner and compressed air for a final clean. Not one broken TO3 socket, found one bad connection at the power switch/light junction and one wire with bad insulation to a thermal switch that needs to be changed. Otherwise looks ok. Should I take the 4x 4uf caps out of circuit on the back plane and test them while im here? Anything else before installing the board and starting bring up?

Leave those caps on the backwall..
 

AngrySailor

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Oct 15, 2014
Messages
3,419
Tagline
---not quite right
Yeah. They can stay for now
..
Ok we just wondering if I should test em while they’re easy to get. I get that caps sometimes aren’t critical as is “YOU GOTTA RE-CAP!” But them old looking paper caps I figured be worth a test if needed while
Easy.

“stay for now” as in till you guys make me full comp my 700/1;)
 

Gepetto

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
13,553
Location
Sterling, MA
Tagline
Old 'Arn Enthusiast
I’m confused about the PL drawing and the level pots. Looks like direct bypasses the pots but I haven’t ohmed it out yet (my bad)
The one set of RCA jacks marked DC Input bypasses the POT when the switch is put in that direct mode. They changed that on the 700B where both normal and direct route through the volume pots.
 
Top