Rek O Kut B-16H Disassembly for resto
- Thread starter WOPL Sniffer
- Start date
I was referring to the cart on the Right in your post. 2 Wires there, Red and White. It is definitely an early 60's Pickering (most likely 350DS).
That cart although mono looks to be in great shape.
I'm not sure of the other cart in the Left side, that is a stereo cart, but not sure what that one is.
That cart although mono looks to be in great shape.
I'm not sure of the other cart in the Left side, that is a stereo cart, but not sure what that one is.
the one on the left appears to be a Pickering V-15 ATE mount with yellow grip Stylus with silver elipse logo Might be rare
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2250817931...R9ASddrG9EJCRrZMumQ3_F3kXvRymMHsaAnNIEALw_wcB
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2250817931...R9ASddrG9EJCRrZMumQ3_F3kXvRymMHsaAnNIEALw_wcB
Don't forget the fine gauge ground wire.
If you use Cardas Litz, the trick to tinning the ends is easy. Place the ends sticking straight up. Then run a solder blob from the tip, down, using gravity. Burns the insulation off and tins the leads. The trick is having the ends pointed straight up and starting the blob at the tip.
If you use Cardas Litz, the trick to tinning the ends is easy. Place the ends sticking straight up. Then run a solder blob from the tip, down, using gravity. Burns the insulation off and tins the leads. The trick is having the ends pointed straight up and starting the blob at the tip.
The new motor mounts should be here in the next day or so, got the new Iwata compressor all tested so paint will go on the arm maybe tomorrow. Sent the idler wheels in for rebuild today, I used the same guy who has done my R2R rubbers over the last couple years (Gary at V-M Enthusiasts), he has great prices and turn around times but it may not be that fast this time since these are odd-balls but I have time. Waiting for the weather to warm so I can get the cabinet sanded and painted. Guess i had better get my wiring for the arm done...................
I don't think so Perry but I have never used guys like this. When I used to do capstans, the durometer was a critical parameter. You don't want it too soft so it compresses too much under the spring pressure. You don't want it too hard so that it transmits motor vibration into the platter. Do they do turntable idlers for a living?
This is a quick blurb from the site.
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When I rebuilt my 1957 Thorens TD-124, I worked with a fellow in Switzerland and another in Italy to obtain parts. I did all of the precision fitting myself on the spindle bore and bearing, and new bushings. The inner plater weighs 9.5 pounds, so the fit and finish as well as lubricant had to be on the money. Diameter on the idler pully was 79mm if I recall correctly. The O.D. and durometer of the outer “tire” was very important. I lapped the bushing to fit the idler shaft. Durometer was a personal choice, provided by two military grade “O-rings”. One was Shore 50A and the other was somewhat harder at Shore 60A. I have always used the harder 60A wheel as the table comes up to speed in ½ revolution, and the eddie current brake allows an equal + and – speed adjustment. Transfer of motor/table vibration was very important going with too hard of an idler. I know there are softer “silicone” idlers out there, but saw no need to use, or even try one of them. The original wheel spec’d at Shore 67A. but it was about 59 years old when I completely rebuilt the TT. “Crusty” would describe the condition. I am very happy using the idler with the Shore 60A idler. I added new floating rubber bushings for the 10 amp motor, after I rebuilt it, and the isolation rubbers for the table to plinth level adjustment screws. No choice on durometer with these but the table is dead quiet. The SME 3009 tonearm uses small iso O-rings as well as an isolation gasket between the arm board and the plinth.