Rek O Kut B-16H Disassembly for resto

Still lookin for some 7.5uf, 600 volters meself..heatsink fan run caps for a Centrilift 330 amp drive..
 
as long as they're all the same volts, right? how much variance can each line have before it is an issue to spin a motor?
 
e30m3mon said:
Gotta love that place ... for me it is next-day delivery for cheap - or free shipping for orders over $100. I hope it is the silver bullet
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I've been cleaning/servicing a "Pile-O-Parts" for this beast, I'll post some more pics asap. I also found a place that makes the turn table platter pads so I got one on order. I peeled up the cork pad which was glued on so I could get the BAP (big assed platter) cleaned up and ready for another 60 years.
 
Spent a lot of hours this weekend cleaning the Sweet 16. I'm still buzzed from the Ass-A-Tone. I managed to get all the petrified grease and oil, and the glue off the platter. My new cork mat should be here in a week or two (coming from the Brits). The Pile-O-Parts took some serious work. Between the green scratchy, acetone, 409, beer, and a wire brush I got them pretty clean. I have to order a wire kit for the tonearm. Any suggestions (Any Oxygen Free Suggestions) on where to buy without breaking the bank???? The TT is going to be sold so no $300 power cords and shit.

ROK parts1.jpgROK Platter.jpgROK under platter.jpg
 
I disassembled the motor and cleaned the hell out of it. It was in nice shape inside. I wired up the cap and a temp power cord. I need to spin it up and make sure it's working correctly. Here is a shot of the plinth after another round of cleaning. In the next post, you'll notice that it doesn't even look like the same TT. I'm working on the tonearm which I saved for last. I am going to pull out the airbrush and do some graffiti on it. I wanted to go BRIGHT, but the wife said that's a personal touch and may not be the best thing for resale. If Sher is so smart, what's she doing hanging with me???????? So, I'm Toning (pun intended) the paint selection down for the arm. If I was getting the plinth painted, I'd go for it but industrial gray and fluorescent green don't look good (HUH?) together. I hope my Wicked paint survived this last year after coming north.


ROK motor.jpgROK controls.jpgROK Plinth.jpg
 
I inspected and cleaned the idler wheels and they LOOK ok but I have to spin it up to see what they do. A custom set of wheels is NOT going to be cheap. I did see that they make a Polished steel pully which drives the idler wheels but no in the combination I need which is 60hz, 33/45/78 with the 1/4" hole for the motor shaft.


ROK underside.jpgROK assy.jpg
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
I inspected and cleaned the idler wheels and they LOOK ok but I have to spin it up to see what they do. A custom set of wheels is NOT going to be cheap. I did see that they make a Polished steel pully which drives the idler wheels but no in the combination I need which is 60hz, 33/45/78 with the 1/4" hole for the motor shaft.


View attachment 73264View attachment 73265
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Looking great Perry,
That run cap looks better than the original !
 
Looking good so far, I'd live with it in the system a few weeks before selling it. I'm not about to sell my Rek anytime soon unless someone wants to trade it for an EMT.

Anyways I used this wire:

https://www.partsconnexion.com/CARDAS-64312.html

and these clips: (mine came with color coded heat shrink though)

https://www.partsconnexion.com/1877PH-75462.html

On my Pickering arm. I'd recommend a cart that tracks 2-5 grams on that thing. Though it might work okay with something that tracks at 1.5 grams. I dunno......

EDIT: I have another Rek O Kut B-12 sitting in my closet in pieces.......
 
Yes, really. Nice work. When the age is considered, it really came out nice. It's also nice to see how finely crafted the mechanism is. It was engineered and built to last. I just don't see anything engineered and built like that anymore. That table should make someone very happy.
 
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