WOPL 400 1st time build

If you have a DCP then you can connect your meters to the Speaker output extensions on top of the circuit board. This means the meters are showing exactly what the speakers "see" and you will avoid the meters pegging on the ON transient and the OFF "thump", which will not hurt the meters but makes me cringe anyway.
 
mlucitt said:
If you have a DCP then you can connect your meters to the Speaker output extensions on top of the circuit board. This means the meters are showing exactly what the speakers "see" and you will avoid the meters pegging on the ON transient and the OFF "thump", which will not hurt the meters but makes me cringe anyway.
Click to expand...

exactly!!!
it may not hurt them...but it cant possibly be a good thing either!!!
lol
 
Hi again. After quite a delay caused by the need to reorder a replacement bias transistor that broke during the installation of the power transistors, we were able to install all of them and then put the new driver board in and wired it up. About the light/meter board wires: which one is which? Take a look. Thank you for your help.
20220820_165417.jpg20220820_165438.jpg
 
plex said:
Hi again. After quite a delay caused by the need to reorder a replacement bias transistor that broke during the installation of the power transistors, we were able to install all of them and then put the new driver board in and wired it up. About the light/meter board wires: which one is which? Take a look. Thank you for your help.
View attachment 68193View attachment 68194
Click to expand...
Black = Ground
Red = Right Channel amp output
White = Left Channel amp output
Yellow = 6VAC in
Yellow = 6VAC in

And what are you doing with that old Light Board Peter?
 
plex said:
Hi again. After quite a delay caused by the need to reorder a replacement bias transistor that broke during the installation of the power transistors, we were able to install all of them and then put the new driver board in and wired it up. About the light/meter board wires: which one is which? Take a look. Thank you for your help.
View attachment 68193View attachment 68194
Click to expand...
dont feel bad...i cut my bias transistors too short...and had to reorder too...
all part of the experience....stories for the grand kids...
these guys here...took damn good care of me....
they will do the same for you!!!!
good like...
consider the led upgrade...not expensive...
adjustable...i put them in all of mine...with the ps cap upgrade...for the two stock units...
the wopl version has all of the bells and whistles build in...as you will discover...
good luck...
 
Hello again.I just did the dim bulb test to the completed amp and the light isn't dimming. I don't have any 100 watt light bulbs lying around,so I used a 3-way 50/100/150 incandescent bulb the first time and a 40 watt incandescent the second time. What could be the cause of this? I thoroughly checked all of my fuses and connections before and after this..
 
Well a 40-50 watt will not be dim per say. Then again not too bright if you had a variac the bulb would stay dim till about 3/4 the way up. Sorry this may not help two much but a 100 watt will be much dimme.
 
Are you hearing the DCP relay click? If it does click as it engages, that's a good sign. If it doesn't click, that's a bad sign of miss wiring or DC to the relay over the flying yellow output wires from the backplanes to the relay.
I've never brought a amp up to power without a Variac and DBT. Not sure what to look for without the Variac
 
Also, you said you did the DBT for the completed amp. Did you do the "bringing up" assembly procedure exactly as spelled out in the documentation? Was the DBT dim with the bottom row in, then the second, then the third, finally the fourth with the required checks?
 
I checked my wiring and checked the AC and DC inputs of the DCP board, and there is little to no power to them.
 
Oh OK thanks for the advice. All of the transistors are already in, and are not shorting to the chassis. I think I should check them again, though, for bent pins or such.
 
plex said:
Oh OK thanks for the advice. All of the transistors are already in, and are not shorting to the chassis. I think I should check them again, though, for bent pins or such.
Click to expand...
Pictures of your wireup would help us help you. Pictures always help.
 
If you think a output may have a bent pin or they were just very hard to line up, then check them against one of the original sockets. The pins were very blunt on the last amp I built compared to the two prior amps. Several outputs needed a little tweek, then no issues.
Also as Joe says, photos. Joe spots issues right away.
 
George S. said:
Are you hearing the DCP relay click? If it does click as it engages, that's a good sign. If it doesn't click, that's a bad sign of miss wiring or DC to the relay over the flying yellow output wires from the backplanes to the relay.
I've never brought a amp up to power without a Variac and DBT. Not sure what to look for without the Variac
Click to expand...
the last 2 dcp boards i bought had a blue led...that lit when relay engaged...
 
OK just removed all but the bottom row of transistors, did the DBT again, and the bulb dimmed and the relay clicked. So I suppose I will go ahead with the row-by row bringup as in the documentation tomorrow.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top