pioneer sx1080 help...

[gene french]

i hope others benefit from this too!!!
btw...
why would someone notch the lip on the front chassis near the volume control???
i did not notice that before when i recapped....

 

[VSAT88]

That soldier joint at pin 6 looks suspicious. That's just from here though.

 

[gene french]

pin 6 is a wire wind connection...
i appreciate your observations...
and help!!!

 

[markthefixer]

1 through 8 red and green

finger touch / hum injection points

somewhere in there the hum will stop. what number hummed last and what number fails to hum.

tip - the greens should all work.

gnite, won't be back tonight, be back sometime tomorrow.

 

[gene french]

good night...
when you have time....please explain the switch settings...
are the rca cables to remain on the tape in/out as before...
input in aux position??
with no input connected??
thank you...

 

[markthefixer]

cables ok
in = aux with no input

switch settings as normal, all up.

those labels were more for me. and the default settings and contact positions.

power up (on)

tone up (off)
duplicate up (off)
monitor tape 2 up (bypass)
monitor tape 1 up (bypass)
mode up (stereo)
loudness up (off)
muting up (no effect, if down, then it's on and sound is reduced 20db)

 

[VSAT88]

A few of the spots I spotted. Like I said just from here though. may be nothing to them at all. Mark is the man. I just hobby. Also looks (from here) like someone at some time removed the wires from some of the posts and soldered them back on the posts instead of just de soldering the wire and post at once.. Just sayin.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I see many cold solder joints on this board. It might be a trick of the light but it does look like you could pus some components right through

 

[George S.]

Gene, once you and Mark get this figured out, there are many suspect solder joints on all the boards shown. We know from experience that digital photos often make good joints look suspect, but those boards need additional work.
Use some sort of magnification to look for suspects, clean the old flux and carbon off with alcohol and a tooth brush, and resolder with fresh rosin core solder and a little paste flux if needed. If a solder pad needs additional work, remove the solder, add a very small and short piece of solid core wire strand as needed, and resolder.
Magnification will be very helpful, I suggest getting a Optivisor or Magnivisor.

 

[gene french]

good morning....another day above ground...has to be a good thing!!!!

understood....
i did recap....and change out the 992s....i am confident in the solder joints....
2 wires did break off during the recap....and i did solder them back on...
i did use flux...and good solder....
i will do as advised....clean with alcohol and toothbrush....soon as i finish brushing my teeth!!!
keep those eyeballs lookin....my eyeballs are showing their age!!!
thanks....
fixing to get the magic finger going....

 

[markthefixer]

They beat me to it. The crummy solder joints are on the back of the tone assembly, and are likely responsible for your tone control problems.
Quite frankly there are many more on that board that I would call dodgey...

at my bench, with a decent desoldering setup and an open container of flux and a small art brush, I would:
1. suck the old solder off the joint
2. while still hot, use the art brush to get a drop of flux on the joint and let it start doing it's job - if a paste the heat should liquefy the flux from the brush.
3. apply heat to the joint and then melt solder into the joint without touching the solder to the solder iron.
that will get a good flow of solder onto the joint. with the extra flux it should work fine.
4. use rubbing alcohol and or acetone after things have cooled down to clean the flux away
and I would do it for just about every joint on that board. That picture wasn't "pretty".

It looks to me to be a manufacturing defect, when they wave soldered the board originally they either went light on the flux
or that section of the board was highly contaminated.

also when soldering / desoldering , that open container of flux? I dip the tip into it so that the tip transfers heat easily.

When soldering or desoldering one should not have to PRESS the tip into the joint to transfer heat -
just TOUCH it. That's what the open container of flux is for.

The copper trace or solder eye is at it's MOST vulnerable when hot, pressing can rip it loose.

 

[markthefixer]

I have things that I have been neglecting too long, so I won't be back until later today - as it is for me, this is oh gawd dark hundred.
the only reason i'm up at all this early is that the visiting nurse was here earlier - to test my INR (blood clotting).

and she ended up waking me up.

 

[gene french]

better short of the suspect board after cleaning....
after i soldered each joint i did check the continuity between the soldered joint and connected components following the traces...to ensure connectivity ....

 

[VSAT88]

And what happened Gene ? Problem still there ?

 

[VSAT88]

And Mark I think you almost certainly were one of the men that helped me over at AK with my SPEC-4 amplifier years back. Either that or I was reading of your work there. I had a few issues after a tech in Atlanta fixed it to fix if you know what I mean. Its cool to see you here at Phoenix. I like the atmosphere over here much better than over there. The wildlife is better here too.

 

[gene french]

And what happened Gene ? Problem still there ?

this happened

 

[gene french]

i will have to wait on mr. fixer....i have never used the hum method of electronic diagnostics....
closest i came to using this method was putting a 9 volt battery on my tongue to see if it was good...

 

[gene french]

at least i feel like a little progress has been made...today
any ideas....until mr. markthefixer returns to enlighten me????
interesting...

 

[markthefixer]

I couldn't help myself.....

well done!!

next step - zeroing in on it!!

21 through 25

 

[gene french]

i cleaned the board a little better...
and took pic at different angle..
look any better???