PL 3300 Series II rebuild/upgrade

it looks like you have +unreg on one side of R1, and + reg out on the other side of R1 without R1 in the circuit. Can't work like that
 
Z102 A,B = B&B OPA2134PA. I'm going to have to go look up the pin outs to take any measurements on the other OPs.
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
Yep, R1, and R3 need to be in the circuit, I believe it is hooked up wrong.
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Okay, I think I'm confused. Are you saying that, along with the leads from the new board, the R-1 & R-3 resistors should have remained in place?
 
Look at the schematic, they are dropping resistors and yes, they must be there. It's hooked up wrong.
 
You gotta pop the top of your other preamp and look but I do believe your power switch is wired wrong. That would account for the button not working right. Sounds like a set of contacts are welded. 3 of the 4 contacts are soldered together. You can see that it's not right.
 
Okay, just to get everything straight — I'm attaching Lou's original instructions for his board. His paper seems to indicate that 1 & 3 should be replaced by the leads from his board. Are you saying the board I have requires the resistors to remain in place?
 

Attachments

WOPL Sniffer said:
You gotta pop the top of your other preamp and look but I do believe your power switch is wired wrong. That would account for the button not working right. Sounds like a set of contacts are welded. 3 of the 4 contacts are soldered together. You can see that it's not right.
Click to expand...
Okay, I'll go in now and pop that top so I can take a look.
 
Does your power LED stay lit? You have at least one constant hot wire, very dangerous. That Black wire is jumpered to 3 tabs of that switch eliminating the on/off function
 
Okay, I just pulled my other 3300 in here to the shop. I don't know who messed with the power switch on the unit I'm working on. It came to me that way. Clearly, I need to pull the whole thing loose and get it wired properly. When I did the build, I was using the schematic. I definitely wasn't winging it. But the issue seems to be those resistors, which are not in the board on my other unit, which I rebuilt years ago now. So I don't have direct recall of what I did back then.
 

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Your pictures are too big, use PIXresizer if possible. DO NOT REUSE THAT SWITCH... It is compromised. Replace the switch, and fix the wiring on the power supply.
 
I'm not having any problems with images, and although 6 MB is a little large the detail is really nice. That being said you probably don't require more than 1100x tops.
 

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orange said:
I'm not having any problems with images, and although 6 MB is a little large the detail is really nice. That being said you probably don't require more than 1100x tops.
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I use PIXresizer and the pictures take no time to open, and are sharp and clear.
 
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