PL 3300 Series II rebuild/upgrade

[WOPL Sniffer]

it looks like you have +unreg on one side of R1, and + reg out on the other side of R1 without R1 in the circuit. Can't work like that

 

[scottonnob]

Z102 A,B = B&B OPA2134PA. I'm going to have to go look up the pin outs to take any measurements on the other OPs.

 

[scottonnob]

Z 103 A, B = TLE2072IP

 

[scottonnob]

Current photos.

 

[scottonnob]

Looking for the pinouts.

 

[scottonnob]

Yep, R1, and R3 need to be in the circuit, I believe it is hooked up wrong.

Okay, I think I'm confused. Are you saying that, along with the leads from the new board, the R-1 & R-3 resistors should have remained in place?

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

Look at the schematic, they are dropping resistors and yes, they must be there. It's hooked up wrong.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

You gotta pop the top of your other preamp and look but I do believe your power switch is wired wrong. That would account for the button not working right. Sounds like a set of contacts are welded. 3 of the 4 contacts are soldered together. You can see that it's not right.

 

[scottonnob]

Okay, just to get everything straight — I'm attaching Lou's original instructions for his board. His paper seems to indicate that 1 & 3 should be replaced by the leads from his board. Are you saying the board I have requires the resistors to remain in place?

 

[scottonnob]

You gotta pop the top of your other preamp and look but I do believe your power switch is wired wrong. That would account for the button not working right. Sounds like a set of contacts are welded. 3 of the 4 contacts are soldered together. You can see that it's not right.

Okay, I'll go in now and pop that top so I can take a look.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

Does your power LED stay lit? You have at least one constant hot wire, very dangerous. That Black wire is jumpered to 3 tabs of that switch eliminating the on/off function

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

are you using the skizmo or are you winging it?

 

[scottonnob]

Okay, I just pulled my other 3300 in here to the shop. I don't know who messed with the power switch on the unit I'm working on. It came to me that way. Clearly, I need to pull the whole thing loose and get it wired properly. When I did the build, I was using the schematic. I definitely wasn't winging it. But the issue seems to be those resistors, which are not in the board on my other unit, which I rebuilt years ago now. So I don't have direct recall of what I did back then.

 

[scottonnob]

are you using the skizmo or are you winging it?

In comparing the two units, it looks as though all I have to do is cut the jumpers linking the front and back poles of the switch. Do you agree?

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

Your pictures are too big, use PIXresizer if possible. DO NOT REUSE THAT SWITCH... It is compromised. Replace the switch, and fix the wiring on the power supply.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

In comparing the two units, it looks as though all I have to do is cut the jumpers linking the front and back poles of the switch. Do you agree?

NO that switch is now toast

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

Fix it right, not like the last guy. don't be in a hurry.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...t=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=TV5+switch

 

[orange]

I'm not having any problems with images, and although 6 MB is a little large the detail is really nice. That being said you probably don't require more than 1100x tops.

 

[scottonnob]

NO that switch is now toast

One more time.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I'm not having any problems with images, and although 6 MB is a little large the detail is really nice. That being said you probably don't require more than 1100x tops.

I use PIXresizer and the pictures take no time to open, and are sharp and clear.