White Oak Audio Design - Model ONE 1000 Watt Stereo Amplifier

Gepetto

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#81
I went with the non-illuminated version of that switch in the end, because I ended up backlighting the bullseye level as the power indicator.

I probably spent more by the time the dust settled…
I like the green illumination ring on the switch. It goes very well with the deep black anodized faceplate finish.
 

mlucitt

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#85
I assembled the Faceplate so that I could wrap it in bubble wrap and set it aside until I was ready for it. Note the rounded corners at the top.
01 Meter Frame Rounded Corners On Top.jpg

02 Diffuser Plate - Textured Side Toward PCB.jpg

Between the VU Meter and the Circuit Board there is a "Light Guide" it has a smooth surface and a textured surface. The textured side goes toward the Circuit Board.
02 Diffuser Plate - Textured Side Toward PCB.jpg

A 5/16" socket for the Meter Board Nuts. Not too tight here, just enough. Maybe a drop of Red Nail Polish on the threads.
03 5-16 Socket for Meter Board Nuts - Not Too Tight.jpg

The Meter is fully installed but not wired up yet.
04 Meter Installed Back.jpg

Those are some pretty meters, expensive too!
05 Meter Installed Front.jpg

Installing the Power Switch (I went with Blue on this build), with a "No-Scratch" wrench.
06 No Scratch Wrench for Power Switch.jpg

Meters wired up. I bent the Meter Terminals down to keep them out of harm's way.
07 Meters Wired.jpg

The Faceplate is assembled, except for the Meter Range Switch. I had one with a short toggle, but I ordered one with a longer toggle, the same switch as used on the Power Control Board. You will need a 1/2" Deep Socket to install the Attenuation Potentiometers, they are recessed. The knobs are as original to Phase Linear as I could find, they are RS Brand, P/N 499-961. You will need a 1.5mm Allen Wrench to tighten the setscrews.
08 Faceplate Assembled.jpg
 

laatsch55

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#86
Do we really give a rats ass about the knob being original-like to a PL?

Also, I need some measurements when you are far enough along so I can get a cabbage case built. No way should those puppies be shipped in anything less. It will belong to the forum to be used by anybody shipping a Model 1....hell;, I'll get two built if we need to...
 

Gepetto

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#92
Whats the weight of the Model One?
57 pounds, 26 kg

The only practical way to build one of these is to purchase a small roll around cart. Put a plywood deck on the top and cover it with that foam wrap to keep from damaging things. That way you can access any side of the amp during the build process and spin the cart around as needed. To build one of these on a static bench is not practical unless you are as big as Shaq.

You can see the red cart I purchased to do this project in the pictures I posted earlier.
 
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Details, details
#93
57 pounds, 26 kg

The only practical way to build one of these is to purchase a small roll around cart. Put a plywood deck on the top and cover it with that foam wrap to keep from damaging things. That way you can access any side of the amp during the build process and spin the cart around as needed. To build one of these on a static bench is not practical unless you are as big as Shaq.

You can see the red cart I purchased to do this project in the pictures I posted earlier.
After wrestling with my 700 during the upgrade I can appreciate your comment about that BEAST...another 12 lb would really make a difference!
 

Hexis22

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#96

Gepetto

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#97
Joe, why 2 sets of holes in the faceplate?

To accommodate both 4” and 5” handles?
NEMA rack mount hole locations. We all have seen poorly executed attempts to drill NEMA rack hole locations in Phase Linear faceplates. It breaks your heart when you see one of those hack jobs. Knowing that, these holes are instead professionally placed by design in the faceplate. Crown DC300 amps similarly provisioned these holes by design.
 
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