Thirty Six Thousand Dollar Speaker Cables?

Doug that's that extra special MagJac insulation. Magnifies what's there so far it causes reality/perception conflicts well after the averted sale.....
 
What I'm using: 12-gauge zip cord labeled "Stinger." It was made for car-stereo installation, and cost so little that I don't remember what it cost. It works great with bananas at each end. My other speaker cable is Radio Shack's TOTL, and I don't use it only because of the length and termination. I've seen the innards of enough amps and receivers to know that the signal to the speakers too often goes thru parts made of the same stamped metal as the chassis. To me, that obviates the advantage of ANY high-end cable.
 
Richard, I think those are made expressly to separate a fool from his money......

The fact that you can post that here and not worry about being banned drastically increases my respect for this site, especially relative to another site that shall remain un-named.

I guess there is sanity on the internet.
 
What I'm using: 12-gauge zip cord labeled "Stinger." It was made for car-stereo installation, and cost so little that I don't remember what it cost. It works great with bananas at each end. My other speaker cable is Radio Shack's TOTL, and I don't use it only because of the length and termination. I've seen the innards of enough amps and receivers to know that the signal to the speakers too often goes thru parts made of the same stamped metal as the chassis. To me, that obviates the advantage of ANY high-end cable.

I get all my speaker wire at estate sales. Usually for a buck for a box of the stuff in the garage. I've got pretty much a lifetime supply of "good" speaker wire.
 
Been using the same speaker wires on my Elites for like 20 years. 8 gauge with an XLR at one end and bare wires on the other. Been using the same wires for my 901's since I started using those as well.
 
Rob, we like to think were sane, but that's all in one's perspective. I've been banned from a few of em. Gonna be pert near impossible to ban me from this one...
 
dismissing cables is not a popular sentiment in many corners. once i posted elsewhere that no wire can improve the sound, it only has the potential to change (change = degradation) the sound. i found the ensuing howls of derision to be hilarious, but noted that no one attempted to refute the statement.
 
dismissing cables is not a popular sentiment in many corners. once i posted elsewhere that no wire can improve the sound, it only has the potential to change (change = degradation) the sound. i found the ensuing howls of derision to be hilarious, but noted that no one attempted to refute the statement.

Here is one guy's opinion

http://www.theaudiocritic.com/back_issues/The_Audio_Critic_26_r.pdf

The ten biggest lies in audio....

I can't recall if I posted this link previously or not. Apologies if I have.
Doug
 
I've tried to A/B cables over the years and I can't say I've really been able to hear the differences. Doesn't mean there isn't one, but if it's in-audible to me then I just save money. However, I've noticed subtle differences on quality contacts, such as solid spade vs a loose feeling banana..
but in a blind test I'd probably be fooled.

For me, when I'm most concerned about cable quality, is when I was performing permanent installs where first code requirements need to be met, then secondly the quality of the cable and jacket & shielding concerns. I've seen plenty of installs where "lamp cord" was pulled throughout a home, cracked, turned green & failed.

The most current wire for my home stereo is radio shack,"flat" 14ga, so it would fit nicely under the 901 stands. I soldered on spades to use on the speaker end so they would stay solid and not pull/fall out. On the amp end I use some monster 2pc screw-down banana plugs that hold the copper very tight internally. Easy to take off for bare wire vintage rcvr usage.
 
I like the expandable banana plugs where the rod is forced down the center expanding the 4 pieces against the female jack.
 
Yeah those sound interesting. I had banana plugs at one time with another set of speakers but they would come out of binding posts real easy... did away with them.
 
It ain't the cables that bug me it's keeping the stuff that feeds them alive all along the line.

And that either the front USB port on this Dell 2350 is shorting out or the mouse is flatlining and I choose the USB as the choosy mother.
 
Ever heard of Roger Russell?
I am of the school of thought that good speaker wire needs three things: low impedance, low capacitance, and low inductance. And interconnects need three things too: low impedance, low capacitance, and low inductance. Increase any of those parameters and you change the sound...Like another poster said earlier, you degrade the sound. And people have been conned into truly believing that very expensive interconnects and speaker wire will actually improve the sound of their system. They can change the frequency response of your system, but the same thing can be accomplished by adding capacitance, resistance, or inductance into the circuit.
Here is a link to a White Paper on speaker wire by Roger Russell, of McIntosh Labs. It's really well written, and it's good reading.

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm


I love his style; he's a classically trained engineer that really knows his stuff from a practical, useful viewpoint.
Not that I needed it, but it gives me permission to use 12 gauge orange extension cords purchased at Home Depot...which I've been happily using for years. Works GREAT.
 
Ever heard of Roger Russell?
I am of the school of thought that good speaker wire needs three things: low impedance, low capacitance, and low inductance. And interconnects need three things too: low impedance, low capacitance, and low inductance. Increase any of those parameters and you change the sound...Like another poster said earlier, you degrade the sound. And people have been conned into truly believing that very expensive interconnects and speaker wire will actually improve the sound of their system. They can change the frequency response of your system, but the same thing can be accomplished by adding capacitance, resistance, or inductance into the circuit.
Here is a link to a White Paper on speaker wire by Roger Russell, of McIntosh Labs. It's really well written, and it's good reading.

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm


I love his style; he's a classically trained engineer that really knows his stuff from a practical, useful viewpoint.
Not that I needed it, but it gives me permission to use 12 gauge orange extension cords purchased at Home Depot...which I've been happily using for years. Works GREAT.


I use #14 THHN......
 
High Temp Thermoplastic Oil and Gas Resistant. Standard wire for the oilfield.
 
Back
Top