Rega Planar 3 Upgrade(?) path

I have full use of it.

They were going to scrap it. I fixed it up and it’s been earning its keep making tooling.

It’s a Hardinge second operation lathe. I dream of a Hardinge Super Precision. But even this thing holds 0.001 inch and repeats. Quality.
Nice, I played on my Dad's old Southbend when I was a kid/teenager. I plan to buy one but will wait until I retire so that I only have to move it once. Also want a 3 axis CNC router table big enough for 4x8 sheets, might do that before I retire.
 
I was looking at a thing called plasma cam that is designed for a plasma cutter, but works well with a router too. You can make signs and other art projects etc. never bought it however.
 
I’ve run a few Monarchs. If they are cared for, great machines. And much larger than the Hardinge, which swings eight inches maybe.

But the bed is one big dovetail that the head, apron and tail stock all share. Sort of like a neck-thru guitar.
 
Got the power filter/inlet assembly installed…

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…and then I broke a screw in the brass insert.

They say the difference between a good wood worker and a great one is how well they repair their fuckups. Let’s see which camp I’m in.

To be continued…
 
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and then I broke a screw in the brass insert.

They say the difference between a good wood worker and a great one is how well they repair their fuckups. Let’s see which camp I’m in.

To be continued…
Some of the worlds greatest achievements were born in a mistake.
 
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Had to make some changes on the fly- o-ring wasn’t cooperating. I didn’t fully assemble it because it might be very difficult to get apart again, and there’s still more to do on it.

But it’s mostly done.

I’ll probably grind those ears off because they’re just in the way now.
 
I got the power inlet sorted out today. Removed the bad insert and put a new one in.

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Opened up the area under the power switch so the assembly can lift out for service. I got a smaller four-pin connector so it can be removed and dealt with away from the table.

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Then I set the band saw motor on fire cutting the motor pod…

Good times.
 
Regarding DuPont, that's where dad worked the first twelve years of my life. The first ten at the Circleville, Ohio Mylar plant where they started out making the skin for the Echo satellites, then went on to making audio and videotape backing. We finally ran out of a roll of the metallized mylar they used on the satellites a couple of years ago. It was one of several dad brought home over the years that didn't pass QC. Great gift wrapping paper and even better box kite skin. Much lighter than newspaper.

So light, in fact that there's a law on the books (a remnant of the cold war) in Circleville that made it illegal to fly kites with metalized skin materials. Seems our box kites were so successful that they would show up on the radar as bogeys up at Lockbourne AFB south of Columbus, Ohio, just 25 miles up the road from the kite test center, er, corn field, behind our house. They'd scramble three fighters to check out the bogeys, only to find radar was chasing our kites. The Air Force finally got tired of spending money on jet fuel so they put some pressure on the town council to outlaw our, ah, research. But it was cool while it lasted.
 
Machine screws into metal inserts allows service for decades with no issues. I’m the guy who has to fix everything around here and the equipment built with quality up front is much easier to service than the cheaper stuff where they cut corners.

Based on research and feedback I’ve received this should provide a very neutral presentation, which is my goal. That way it will work as well with 80’s pop as it will with audiophile classical recordings.

I am also fully documenting everything on this build and will be able to offer a completed table if anyone is interested. (It won’t be very cheap however)
 
I am also fully documenting everything on this build and will be able to offer a completed table if anyone is interested. (It won’t be very cheap however)
Nothing of high quality is, within reason of course. Something with this much artistry and engineering should command a premium.
 
Those inserts are born from when we made guitars. The active ones needed periodic battery changes, and the wood wouldn’t last against a wood screw. So we started using brass inserts back then.

It’s also a nicer experience because you can easily feel when you are bottomed out, which isn’t as obvious with a wood screw and that also leads to thread failures…
 
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