(Possible) score- Pioneer SX-580 receiver

Ya know, the funny thing is, the receiver is also real wood, but covered with vinyl. I know the luan ply under the vinyl will not be nice but it amazes me that using printed vinyl, over a wood veneer, is enough of a cost savings on the final unit price to justify it.

I've seen plenty of steel cases with vinyl on them over the years but this was a head scratcher for sure.
 
Both of those PIO tables are as basic as they can be - belt drive manual.

I’ve owned a couple of 12D’s and over time, neither’s belt turned to tar but in both cases, their belts stretched and/or sagged so much they fell off pulleys and rims.

I would look to the obvious first. My bet is it’s the belt or lack there of.
 
Those motors are very quiet by design. I agree, most probably a belt issue. Worth checking out if price is right. If I take the belt off my AR, I wouldn't be able to tell if the motor is on or off without pulling the platter and looking.
 
J!m said:
Ya know, the funny thing is, the receiver is also real wood, but covered with vinyl. I know the luan ply under the vinyl will not be nice but it amazes me that using printed vinyl, over a wood veneer, is enough of a cost savings on the final unit price to justify it.

I've seen plenty of steel cases with vinyl on them over the years but this was a head scratcher for sure.
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Not that long ago, I traded in a batch of turntables. Among other responsibilities, a young fellow at the shop had the chore of refinishing/recycling turntable bases and polishing dust covers.

One of the tables I left there was a house branded CEC belt drive manual which was the one that young fellow seemed most eager to get his hands on.

He explained of not knowing what the base was constructed from but his practice was stripping off the vinyl then sanding and staining the wood underneath.

He said bases on lot of Japanese tables were made from the same stuff.

I saw the end result a few weeks later and it looked very nice indeed. And different because it was unusual.

Might be that the material those bases were made from is that Luan plywood you mentioned?
 
I can't say for that, but this Pioneer, and my ('7) Kenwood stuff, are the same Luan ply, with walnut as a final veneer in the case of the Kenwood stuff.

Luan has a pretty open grain and finishing it directly will require grain filler and a bunch of sanding. I'd rather acetone wash it and apply decent veneer- either walnut or rosewood. Brazialian cherry is nice too but hard to find as veneer.
 
Just before the Innovative Audio Garage Sale back in June, I brought out my CT-F9191 and a few other components to play some tunes out in my own garage - with a beverage, of course.

20210619_160607.jpg

Nando.
 
I bought my CT-F9191 a long time ago (13 years?) at the Salvation Army for some ridiculous price like $15. I had a retired technician, who worked out of his home, do a little servicing on it shortly after I bought it. Unfortunately, the technician died a number of years ago from dementia. He did a bit of service work on a few of my other components, including my Ariston Audio RD-80. His specialty was working on turntables. Great guy and he was well-respected among the technicians who were in the industry.

Nando.
 
J!m said:
Playing with the FM de-emphasis switch (5th photo) on the back and 25us sounds much clearer and more open to me than 75us.

What is it?

Headphone jack was a bit dirty (no sound on one side) put plugging/unplugging eleventeen times fixed that.

All pots are quiet and the loudness function works. I’d say she’s done!
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My Kenwood KR 7600 has a button on the front that kicks in 25us and it also sounds better using it. Clearer and a bit brighter. Never really checked out what the differences are some of my other receivers say to use 75us so never changed them but now maybe...
 
So, Nando, if a F9191 plays but does not FF or REW it’s probably got the bad clutch problem?
 
Yes, the deck can work in play mode but not fast forward or rewind if the clutch mechanism is failing/failed.

Nando.
 
The correct setting for the FM de-emphasis switch for North America is 75uS. I believe the 25uS setting was for Dolby FM, which never took off. Europe uses 50uS. To lower the HF noise, FM broadcasts pre-emphasize (i.e. boost) the high frequencies, the receiver then de-emphasizes these frequencies to give flat response. Not surprised that the 25uS setting sounds brighter - it should, but it won't be the correct setting. It's similar to turning up the treble.
 
Maybe my switch is still dirty too.

It did boost the treble (Nakamichi FM!) but it also cleaned up the rest of the band. A lot less “hash” which might normally be enhanced by a treble increase. Maybe I should clean the switch more…
 
BlueCrab said:
The correct setting for the FM de-emphasis switch for North America is 75uS. I believe the 25uS setting was for Dolby FM, which never took off. Europe uses 50uS. To lower the HF noise, FM broadcasts pre-emphasize (i.e. boost) the high frequencies, the receiver then de-emphasizes these frequencies to give flat response. Not surprised that the 25uS setting sounds brighter - it should, but it won't be the correct setting. It's similar to turning up the treble.
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Dolby FM confounded Dolby C on cassette decks, which is why you see a MPX Filter switch on some decks of that era.
 
BlueCrab said:
The correct setting for the FM de-emphasis switch for North America is 75uS. I believe the 25uS setting was for Dolby FM, which never took off. Europe uses 50uS. To lower the HF noise, FM broadcasts pre-emphasize (i.e. boost) the high frequencies, the receiver then de-emphasizes these frequencies to give flat response. Not surprised that the 25uS setting sounds brighter - it should, but it won't be the correct setting. It's similar to turning up the treble.
Click to expand...
Just another setting to use then, excellent! Thanks.
 
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