PL7000S2
- Thread starter George S.
- Start date
Yup, took lots of photos as I disassembled it!
Luckily all the clips and screws are standardized so they don't have to be kept in order, they'll go into one Ziploc.
I'll contact Terry's Rubber Rollers in the next couple days and see about getting the pinch rollers and idler tire rubber replaced.
There's also several rectangular rubber slip on brake pads that need replaced. If he can't do those then I need to search for neoprene tubing or perhaps heat shrink.
I'll post a photo later and ask for ideas about best way to go.
Luckily all the clips and screws are standardized so they don't have to be kept in order, they'll go into one Ziploc.
I'll contact Terry's Rubber Rollers in the next couple days and see about getting the pinch rollers and idler tire rubber replaced.
There's also several rectangular rubber slip on brake pads that need replaced. If he can't do those then I need to search for neoprene tubing or perhaps heat shrink.
I'll post a photo later and ask for ideas about best way to go.
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 74,627
- Location
- Gillette, Wyo.
- Tagline
- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
Mocking up the transport and measuring for belts using hemp twine(of course!).
There are no good belt kits available for this model, so I'll measure and order a small range of sizes.
Additionally, there is no info anywhere about the idler tire. But, I have it removed from the pulley, so should be able to find one.
Decided to not use Lubriplate. Good for motor assembly, but I've seen it separate and run in bicycle hubs and bottom brackets.
Using what I consider the best bicycle grease by far, Park Tools PolyLube 1000. Really good stuff.
For oil, Mobil 1 of course. Right out of the jug in the garage. 5W30, it'll work fine.
I did shoot Terry a email and photo of the pinch rollers. He did quote me a price. Very expensive.
I need to get it done regardless, as the originals have no apparent wear in the bushings, and yes, they're rock hard.
There are no good belt kits available for this model, so I'll measure and order a small range of sizes.
Additionally, there is no info anywhere about the idler tire. But, I have it removed from the pulley, so should be able to find one.
Decided to not use Lubriplate. Good for motor assembly, but I've seen it separate and run in bicycle hubs and bottom brackets.
Using what I consider the best bicycle grease by far, Park Tools PolyLube 1000. Really good stuff.
For oil, Mobil 1 of course. Right out of the jug in the garage. 5W30, it'll work fine.
I did shoot Terry a email and photo of the pinch rollers. He did quote me a price. Very expensive.
I need to get it done regardless, as the originals have no apparent wear in the bushings, and yes, they're rock hard.
Found some very minor cracking around the nylon pulleys that are press fit on the reel shafts. The nylon slightly shrinks as it ages.
Need magnification to really see it.
Have some 3M nylon structural adhesive coming.
I'll fill those small cavities between the hub and the rim on both sides. Should never have a issue with those very small cracks.
I'll use a moderate amount to keep the weight down and keep it balanced. Shouldn't be a issue as the direct drive motor and flywheel are massive.
The felt clutches look very good. I'll leave as is. If I find issue, McMaster Carr sells sheets and washers.
In-between the reel assemblies is the idler pulley/clutch and dismounted tire. Can't find a single photo of it anywhere, so perhaps this is the first. Distinctly different from the CT-F1250 version and it's ills. This one looks good.
Need magnification to really see it.
Have some 3M nylon structural adhesive coming.
I'll fill those small cavities between the hub and the rim on both sides. Should never have a issue with those very small cracks.
I'll use a moderate amount to keep the weight down and keep it balanced. Shouldn't be a issue as the direct drive motor and flywheel are massive.
The felt clutches look very good. I'll leave as is. If I find issue, McMaster Carr sells sheets and washers.
In-between the reel assemblies is the idler pulley/clutch and dismounted tire. Can't find a single photo of it anywhere, so perhaps this is the first. Distinctly different from the CT-F1250 version and it's ills. This one looks good.
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Got the DC motor opened damage free.
As installed it had a black rubber "condom" over it to absorb vibration.
It was totally degraded, so I'll replace it with bicycle intertube.
Got the red cap off by putting a safety razor blade between it and the housing. Rolled while gently tapping with a hammer. Permanent magnets, so be very gentle. Then two blades, with prying, and finally a screwdriver.
Commutator and brushes look good. Very dry bushings.
Very strong magnets in the housing that'll grab the thrust washers. You'll have hell trying to find and remove them.
The set screw on the drive pulley is a 0.9 mm, way smaller then a 0.050".
As installed it had a black rubber "condom" over it to absorb vibration.
It was totally degraded, so I'll replace it with bicycle intertube.
Got the red cap off by putting a safety razor blade between it and the housing. Rolled while gently tapping with a hammer. Permanent magnets, so be very gentle. Then two blades, with prying, and finally a screwdriver.
Commutator and brushes look good. Very dry bushings.
Very strong magnets in the housing that'll grab the thrust washers. You'll have hell trying to find and remove them.
The set screw on the drive pulley is a 0.9 mm, way smaller then a 0.050".
Attachments
Been reading about brake pads for several days.
The originals are in surprisingly good shape.
Still nice and pliable after cleaning.
Flipped them over and reinstalled them.
If I do need to replace them in the far future, think I'll use leather.
The nylon reel brake drums they contact are in good shape except for the micro cracking around the press fit. Should have that solved once the adhesive arrives.
The originals are in surprisingly good shape.
Still nice and pliable after cleaning.
Flipped them over and reinstalled them.
If I do need to replace them in the far future, think I'll use leather.
The nylon reel brake drums they contact are in good shape except for the micro cracking around the press fit. Should have that solved once the adhesive arrives.
Attachments
I'm also. Should be here tomorrow.
Very expensive so I ordered the cheapest cartridge that requires the digital gun and applicator tip.
I don't have those, so I'll weigh each of the two components on my digital scale before mixing.
I'll do some testing on scrap plastics before applying it to those irreplaceable parts.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b5005281015/
Very expensive so I ordered the cheapest cartridge that requires the digital gun and applicator tip.
I don't have those, so I'll weigh each of the two components on my digital scale before mixing.
I'll do some testing on scrap plastics before applying it to those irreplaceable parts.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b5005281015/
This one just sold this morning.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1161964684...NB_S8D7Qg2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1161964684...NB_S8D7Qg2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Got the adhesive, but after seeing the cartridge, going to wait until I get a cheap dual piston gun and mixing nozzles.
Got the nylon pulleys cleaned, sanded, and cleaned again. They'll sit under a halogen desk light today and bake to outgas, then I'll ziplock bag them.
No reason to rush this.
Got the nylon pulleys cleaned, sanded, and cleaned again. They'll sit under a halogen desk light today and bake to outgas, then I'll ziplock bag them.
No reason to rush this.
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- Joined
- Jul 26, 2011
- Messages
- 821
- Location
- Absurdy, new name of France
- Tagline
- You never have too much tapedecks ^^
