PL 700 Pro Build

Universal George, 400s and 700s same.

Not urgent, just passing along a further improvement that can be made.
 
Cool! Then it's worth doing. Copper plate was cleaned of old solder with the Hakko 470. Then shined with 00 steel wool. Using the proper toothed washer between the jack ground tab and copper plate. Appropriate fiber insulators of each side of the chassis so the jacks and plate "float" above ground.
 

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Wiring completed. #5 R+L jumper removed. Ground wires run from the copper bus bar to Control Board #5 R+L.
Used 16 AWG grey as I have lots of it, follows the existing wire color selections .
Listening to BTO.
 

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These Hakko 470s do a excellent job. Where most people mess up (I'm included) is turning them up too high. Setting #1 is supposed to be calibrated at 700 deg F.. Go no higher for normal through hole pcb desoldering.
I did these copper plates at setting #4. Awesome.
 

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The 400 S2 is done. Going to button it up and listen to some music. I'll do the other 400 tomorrow.
Had to drill a extra hole in the buss bar on this one. Put a layer of sticky tape underneath it and drilled. Worked good.
 

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I can clean up those copper plates with my WES 51, takes about 40 seconds..
 
Doing the updates to the 400 S1 this morning. After sleeping and thinking about the RCAs I did yesterday, I think leaving out the toothed washers and soldering is the way to go.
Going back into the other two amps today and pull the toothed washers.
 

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Calling the 700 Pro build finished after getting the longer standoffs installed, and Joe's updates done. Got the RCA ground tabs soldered to the copper plate. Thanks y'all. Later.
 

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George S. said:
I always thought the meters should be accurate like a speedometer on a car.
I do like the meter attenuation switch on the 700 that supposedly matches the 700s meters to a 400s full scale meters. But, you know, I might be wrong about this. I don't know.
Any how, I'll probably put the original resistors back into the 400 S1 so they accurately read 100 watts at the 0 db 100 marking on the meter faces. That's how they designed it, much smarter people than me.
Click to expand...
Anyone have the par number of the 700II meter attenuation switch, been searching and all I find is the power switch. (That is unless I am blind which is a distinct possibility.)
 
Looks like the power and meter range switch came as a assembly "2-Station ass'y (power & range) ...129-0093-0" mounted on the bracket.
Both switches are Alps, and secured to the mounting bracket with bracket extensions that are crimped to secure the switches.
The meter range switch is very similar to the Alps push button switches in the PL2000 preamps.
These can be taken apart and cleaned, just watch for the spring loaded small parts. I don't remember seeing a part # on my meter range switch, nor see one in the many photos I have of it during the build.
 

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Plenty of Alps push button switches on the Bay, I even see a couple "TV" power switches that would probably work for the On/Off switch
Just make sure you get a "locking" version as some are momentary.
 
George S. said:
Looks like the power and meter range switch came as a assembly "2-Station ass'y (power & range) ...129-0093-0" mounted on the bracket.
Both switches are Alps, and secured to the mounting bracket with bracket extensions that are crimped to secure the switches.
The meter range switch is very similar to the Alps push button switches in the PL2000 preamps.
These can be taken apart and cleaned, just watch for the spring loaded small parts. I don't remember seeing a part # on my meter range switch, nor see one in the many photos I have of it during the build.
Click to expand...

Hey George
You know those resistors come off the meter attenuation switch when you use the White Oak Cylon boards correct? That feature is built into the Cylon meter boards

Pin7Attenuator switch wire 1 (remove 120K ohm resistor usually applied between the attenuator switch terminals)

Pin8Attenuator switch wire 2 (remove 120K ohm resistor usually applied between the attenuator switch terminals)
 
Joe, here's a photo with the resistors removed. Thanks for noticing and questioning this! I seldom get this stuff correct the first time.
 

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George S. said:
Yes sir, that was the original wiring. I've learned to photo pretty much everything electrical before I take it apart. Sure beats drawing it all out like before cell phones!
Found a potential power switch and a meter switch(although it's a little long with extra contacts).
Links follow:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-HAFLER...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alps-SDU3P...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Many others are listed.
Click to expand...
I will keep searching, but that Hafler will work just overkill. Went through Alps catalog and no more bracket slide mount crimp types.
 
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