PL 700 Pro Build

WOPL Sniffer

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Yep, if you think that's a real issue. Was overcome on all 3 of my WOPLs. All three had alignment issues with that bottom right output. Used a drill bit on my two 400s and a tapered reamer on the Pro. Really not a big issue to me. I'm partial to the original chassis. The Pro had the typical bends beside the transformer. Built a simple wooden lever press in the garage on a workbench and massaged it back straight. Then filled and relocated some screw holes to make a stiffer structure.
I like reusing the original chassis and original paint or anodizing. I don't mind the patina.

Yes, I did the same on a stack of the Clair Brothers units. I started using Joes chassis' and heat sinks and saved a bunch of time. Having the anodized White Oak Chassis' with machined screw holes eliminated the risk of sheet metal crumbs from falling inside the amp due to sheet metal screws. And having his IEC receptacle is a bonus not to mention the extra room. But it's all moot since the face/chassis has mating dimples.
 

grapplesaw

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Yes, I did the same on a stack of the Clair Brothers units. I started using Joes chassis' and heat sinks and saved a bunch of time. Having the anodized White Oak Chassis' with machined screw holes eliminated the risk of sheet metal crumbs from falling inside the amp due to sheet metal screws. And having his IEC receptacle is a bonus not to mention the extra room. But it's all moot since the face/chassis has mating dimples.
Sales pitch?
 

George S.

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Well, I was thinking. Maybe fill that countersink on the faceplate. Using the WOAD chassis would be easier. But then, doubt the faceplate and painted rack handles are going to be blemish free and match that beautiful chassis. The rack handles on my unit are standard anodized aluminium handles that are painted a slightly lighter shade of shiny olive drab than the face plate. I spent a lot of time mixing Testors enamel and fixing the worst of the scrapes, and it looks a lot better, but I think it goes better with the original chassis which is also painted a greenish charcoal.
To me the Pro just isn't as elegant as a Clair Bros or normal S2. It's got square cut faceplate corners and paint over the anodizing. But, it's rare and unique, so that's cool. Hope your faceplates and handles are in great shape, that'll help a bunch.
Oh, and the transformer bell has that unique Pro sticker. My bell was bent at the top from other amps being slid in on top. Cast aluminium that I was able to carefully work flat. Wood blocks cut to size were required.
 

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Gepetto

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Yes, I did the same on a stack of the Clair Brothers units. I started using Joes chassis' and heat sinks and saved a bunch of time. Having the anodized White Oak Chassis' with machined screw holes eliminated the risk of sheet metal crumbs from falling inside the amp due to sheet metal screws. And having his IEC receptacle is a bonus not to mention the extra room. But it's all moot since the face/chassis has mating dimples.
The countersinks in the back of the faceplate are of no matter Perry...
 

GaryCooper

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Hmm, was looking for something similar, but old style, pre-plastic. Phase Linear used a woven flexible tube to protect the power cord on a long run inside the 400s. Looks almost like fabric, probably flame retardant.
Been looking for it on eBay, Mouser, and Digikey for a good while with no luck. Chances are it is woven Asbestos so that's why I can't find it
We have a big Microcenter store up in Cleveland that sells all the braided plastics. Wonder if someone braids Teflon or Nomex. Going to look. Thanks Jim. Nice looking cord!
George look more for heat wrap sleeves. https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/high-temperature-braided-sleeving
 

George S.

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Thanks Gary! That's a great site. That sheathing also has lots of automotive use I can immediately think of, like the starter wiring on a small or big block Chevy and the crank sensor wiring on the Buick 3800.
 
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GaryCooper

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So found the issues. These old Dell power cords are funky. They came with the XPS 700, 710, or 720 with the 1000 watt power supply. I've got 2 XPS 700s and 2 720s and they all suffered from intermittent restarts. Now I know why. I can slightly move that cords end plug and watch the voltage drop.
Second issue is the Radio Shack True RMS meter. It's junk, gives a totally different result each time I take a reading. I'll keep the leads and new batteries, rest is going in trash
Going to order some new cords, and peruse the bay for another Fluke and a decent Simpson 260 or 270 analog meter.
The 12 VAC is right on the money if I slightly twist the cord end to make good contact.
You know George I hate when I find something like that ,that has been bitting me in the ass and wasn't even my or your fault right?
 

George S.

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I agree. Went with new cords on all my amps and upgraded the test gear.
Really hate to see Radio Shack being long gone though. One of the few places I could pick up a genuine Shure cartridge or stylus. Think they sold more Shure products than any other retailer.
And Shure discontinued cartridge production in 2018, saying:
He explained while sales numbers have remained steady over the past 15 years, the 36 parts suppliers that made Shure cartridges, styluses, cantilevers, magnets, wire, etc. were struggling to keep up with demand and maintain the quality standards Shure requires.
https://www.cnet.com/tech/home-ente...-lovers-shure-exits-phono-cartridge-business/
 

GaryCooper

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Met
So look at all that room. Going to get some longer standoffs and space that control board away from the back planes a little more like Glen does his.
Going to lay a towel over the transformer and fins, lay the intermediate plate on it, and start wiring it.
Meters alot of that room.
 

GaryCooper

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Calling the 700 Pro build finished after getting the longer standoffs installed, and Joe's updates done. Got the RCA ground tabs soldered to the copper plate. Thanks y'all. Later.
Thank you for sharing this build it helps a lot on questions I had now ive seen wopl I can picture what everyone is talking about .
I'm gonna do it just gonna have to do some part time work a bit .
 

mlucitt

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Got the RCA ground tabs soldered to the copper plate. Thanks y'all. Later.
George, as a possible alternative, the RCA Grounds on the Copper Plate are not necessary. The Input wire shields receive their Ground potential from the Control Board on Positions 2L and 2R. There is much more noise around the Main Power Supply Capacitors that you do not need. Additionally, you want the Input Wire shields isolated from the chassis, when you connect these shields to the Copper Plate (STAR Ground) there is one wire that is connected to the chassis. This effectively connects your Input Wire Shields to the Chassis and creates a Ground Loop back through the Control Board.

I have wired every WOPL upgrade this way and the results are good. By the way, your wiring looks very neat.
 

George S.

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Mark L., so, ditch the RCA ground tabs and make the coax I use be a single ended ground at the control board 2R and 2L?
And get the RCA grounds where?
Originally I wired the RCA's full floating and isolated from each other with fiber washers on both sides.
Joe said the RCA grounds needed to be tied together, so I reinstalled the RCA copper plate. The entire RCA assembly with copper plate floats above chassis ground.
Perhaps I misunderstood what Joe was saying(wouldn't be the first time). :)
 

Hexis22

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George, as a possible alternative, the RCA Grounds on the Copper Plate are not necessary. The Input wire shields receive their Ground potential from the Control Board on Positions 2L and 2R. There is much more noise around the Main Power Supply Capacitors that you do not need. Additionally, you want the Input Wire shields isolated from the chassis, when you connect these shields to the Copper Plate (STAR Ground) there is one wire that is connected to the chassis. This effectively connects your Input Wire Shields to the Chassis and creates a Ground Loop back through the Control Board.

I have wired every WOPL upgrade this way and the results are good. By the way, your wiring looks very neat.
As Sniff would say HUH??

I tried reading your statement above several times and not sure I understand your point.

The intent of the copper plate is to ensure a robust connection between the RCA jack grounds back to the source component. This eliminates potential ground shifts between the two inputs due to noise on interface cables acting as potential antennas.

You want the best ground connection between each RCA outer shell as soon as the input enter the housing and both isolated from the amp chassis ground.
 

mlucitt

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I tried reading your statement above several times and not sure I understand your point.
I did not say anything about the copper plate where the RCA Inputs come into the amp. I was speaking of the Copper Plate that goes between the Power Supply Capacitors.
George had the RCA Input Jacks wired properly. I was pointing out that he did not need to Ground the Input Jack Copper Plate to the Copper Plate (Star Ground) between the Capacitors.

I can see how the first line of my statement can be misleading. There are two Copper Plates in a PL amplifier. I should have written it this way:
"George, as a possible alternative, the additional RCA Ground wire you connected to the Buss Bar (STAR Ground) between the Power Supply Capacitors is not necessary. The Input wire shields receive their Ground potential from the Control Board on Positions 2L and 2R. There is much more noise around the Main Power Supply Capacitors that you do not need. Additionally, you want the Input Wire shields isolated from the chassis, when you connect these shields to the Buss Bar (STAR Ground) there is one wire that is connected to the chassis. This effectively connects your Input Wire Shields to the Chassis and creates a Ground Loop back through the Control Board."

Sorry for the confusion, it was late.
 
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