PL 400...the beginning

Cajunmech said:
Returned that POC I bought on Ebay and found a PL400 WOPL. Bought it. Done! It gets delivered today. But I will certainly open it up and review that all of the White Oak parts are there. Thanks to everyone for their help.
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You found a 400 WOPL on ebay??? Or you found one from..........
 
Skratch said:
New Rev C 400 light board which you can use a toggle switch to have 3 different meter sensitivity ranges and also able to adjust the brightness of the LED lamps
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Use a switch like this to control meter sensitivity. DPDT ON-OFF-ON


Mfr. #:
100DP3T8B13M1QEH

E-Switch
 
Skratch said:
New Rev C 400 light board which you can use a toggle switch to have 3 different meter sensitivity ranges and also able to adjust the brightness of the LED lamps
Click to expand...


Ah, meter settings selection.... I had never heard of "meter selection" since there are only 1 per side.... cool
 
Maybe when I sell this last WOPL I am building, I'll find a 400 to play with. Hmmmmmm, Lime green, with purple laser etched face.... :)
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
Maybe when I sell this last WOPL I am building, I'll find a 400 to play with. Hmmmmmm, Lime green, with purple laser etched face.... :)
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How about doing a WOPL faceplate in Army camo with Mil-Spec lettering, or maybe UAV stealth grey (I could get you some of that anti-radar reflective paint from the guys down at NAS JAX), probably only cost a tin of coffee. Everything cumshaw costs a tin of coffee.
http://www.jacksjoint.com/sailor_terminology.htm
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
Check with Joe, he may know if any of the builders have openings to get your amp done. I think me and Lee figured out that Parts alone were nearing $1000. Labor would be about 40-50 hours worth. I usually don't recommend pumping that much into a 400 when the parts are about the same for a 700B/II

You could easily have $1800 into a 400 and a 700B (if you have a core) would be not much more. It all comes down to selling in MY book. WOPL'd 400's don't go for nearly as much as a WOPL'd 700B/II and you'll get twice the power (500WPC RMS out of the 700). They are not cheap but for an amp that will last you a lifetime????
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Hi there, I’m new here and was pointed to this forum from WO. I have 2 PL400 in need of repair. Since you wouldn’t recommend going “full Monty” on the 400 (I’d agree) what would say would be the minimum bang for your buck upgrade you’d put into the PL400?
 
Two things to evaluate on any 400; are the output transistors under the heat sink covers original? Is the circuit board inside brown or pale green?

400s blew up so often that most have unmatched output transistors installed. The brown circuit board also blows up, green is the factory upgrade and is later production. I have two working 400s here in Nashville on consignment. The stock amp has a harsh enough sound that I would recommend it only for running woofers.

Cheap DC protection is a 3 amp speaker fuse.
 
I have a 100% stock never blown 400 that is very clean cosmetically for $275. You probably would not need your faceplate. This one has had 2 owners, the second of which bought it from me to run his whole house system. he converted to a zone amp and needed more channels. I can't remember the story behind the first owner except that I checked it and it was one of the few originals I've seen. IIRC the outputs are XPL909 transistors! I have another that is dirty that I haven't opened up yet, but I was told it worked (attic storage).
 
I am interested in one or the other 400. I'm getting to where my ears can't tell the difference between 400 and 700 any more and after a new control board, bulk caps, and new outputs, a 400 is almost loud enough.
 
Gepetto said:
Use a switch like this to control meter sensitivity. DPDT ON-OFF-ON


Mfr. #:
100DP3T8B13M1QEH

E-Switch
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Joe, can you check that P/N again? I ordered (1) Mfr. #:100DP3T8B13M1QEH and received this:
E-switch.jpg

I like the one in your picture better than this monkey-fisted switch, maybe Mouser pulled the wrong part?
 
mlucitt said:
Joe, can you check that P/N again? I ordered (1) Mfr. #:100DP3T8B13M1QEH and received this:
View attachment 46161

I like the one in your picture better than this monkey-fisted switch, maybe Mouser pulled the wrong part?
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That looks right Mark. Not sure what you mean by monkey fisted, please explain. The switch I used was ON-ON as it was what I had handy, not ON-OFF-ON like the one you got.
 
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