PL 3300 Series II rebuild/upgrade

Wow, I'd love to get said kit from you. Just tell me what I owe for the material and shipping and I'll PayPal it off to you immediately. And you are correct, the soldering on perf boards always looks amateurish. It works, but it's kind of embarrassing.
 
It probably wouldn't have made any difference to you, but I now realize I should have popped the cover off of my upgraded 3300 and taken a picture of Lou's board.
 
Don't fixate on the non-electrolytic cap sizes, I stuck those in there as placeholders for the footprints. I think we can play with those values big time. I'll try them with .01uf and maybe .22uf... (I have those on hand)... I think that the assembly should take care of any noise though.
 
Very cool Perry. I have a 3300 in the pile -O- PL. I guess I have some reading to do.
I think you should have had your name printed on the boards though.:dontknow:
 
Well, they seem to be working just fine. (the + and - 15 regulators)......

The connectors don't fit but a piece of wire fits just fine. As I said earlier, with 12 regulators in instead of 15's and it should work great too.


IMG_4674.jpg
 
Wow! I just received a pair of boards from Perry. I guess I wasn't paying attention, because I thought I was just buying the empty PCBs. However, I opened the box and found fully populated boards ready to be installed. Great bargain. A hell of a contribution to the PL community. Many, many thanks to Perry for all the time and energy it required to have these boards produced.
 
It keeps me busy and out of trouble... Hook one up and check it out, should work fine... :)

I do have a few left
 
You are amazing Perry, don't understand shit what the boards are for but if you built them, there is a very good reason and your work is always stellar

I will be giving you a ring this week anyway. I have a few questions to ask you anyway about the Technics TT
 
The purpose of the regulators is to keep the +/- outputs at 15 volts over a wide range of input voltage. The spec (P.3 of the manual) says the range is 90-132 vac. 132 is 10% high from a nominal voltage of 120 volts. 90 volts is 25% low from a nominal 120. Typical power supply design is +/- 10% from nominal. I would suggest using a variac to drop the line voltage to 108 VAC and make sure the input voltage is still above the minimum input for the XX15's. If it's borderline use XX12's.

It wouldn't hurt to put a reverse clamp diode (1n4004) from input to output of the regulators to make sure the output cap of the regulators discharges properly at turn off. To do this on the 7815 the anode of the diode connects to the output, the cathode (band) connects to the input. The polarity of the diode reverses for the 7915. If a scope is available look at the output of the regulator with the variac set at 108 VAC and make sure it doesn't oscillate or show other signs of instability.

I just noticed that the schematic Perry posted has reverse clamp diodes from output to ground. Although it won't hurt anything they probably won't do much either.
 
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Northwinds said:
You are amazing Perry, don't understand shit what the boards are for but if you built them, there is a very good reason and your work is always stellar

I will be giving you a ring this week anyway. I have a few questions to ask you anyway about the Technics TT
Click to expand...



It has been a while since we have yapped on the phone.... Gimme a call anytime...
 
Spent the day mounting the board Perry got to me. I'd already installed the wiring when I was soldering in other parts on the board. I had some threaded 1" nylon stand-offs laying around, but there really isn't enough meat on the PL board in that area to allow for drilling without risking hitting a trace. So I just hot glued the stand-off, then drilled Perry's board and ran a #6 screw in there. Many thanks again to Perry. I still can't believe he only charged me around $10 for the board, and he tells me he has a couple more left, if any of you guys are interested.

Also, it was really nice to plug in the OPA 2134's Dennis was generous enough to sell me. He's a great asset for parts.

3300 — LU1.jpg

3300 — LU3.jpg

3300 — LU6.jpg

3300 — LU5.jpg

3300 — LU8.jpg
 
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I just changed out the regulators with a 12 volt set and installed one in a Carver C 4000 yesterday. Gonna run some tests on it today. Instead of hot glue, I used RTV.

Lookin good.....
 
You could have used the heat sink holes to mount it too but I used the goo too.....
 
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