NAD 6300

J!m

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#22
Thank you! I'll take a look but the service manual I have didn;t have any mechanical information at all.... Maybe it was missing a lot of pages or something.

Get well soon!
 

vince666

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#23
Any ideas what’s on the heads? Do we think acetone is OK to use to clean it?
that's corrosion/oxide too... i've seen it more times and I guess certain alloys used to make heads produce that kind of yellow oxide, rather than the good old classic red rust.
unfortunately, I doubt cleaning with any kind of solvent would remove it... usually, I've solved by lapping the head.
anyways, at least for the tape contact zone (which is the one which really counts), you might also wait the tape slowly "lap" the surface and get rid of that stuff.
I would stay away from any of those methods regarding polishing pastes and such because, to begin with, it's the method of applying them which is unproper... in fact, when I lap a head I do it on a flat glass surface, with suitable lapping film (for metal alloy heads, then not glass and/or ferrite, the 3M Imperial Aluminium Oxide self adhesive film is OK!) and while really knowing what to do and, most of all, what NOT to do (i.e. bending the guides to be able to lap the head at the center of the glass surface, running for long segments in a flat way on the lapping surface because it would remove material just from the gaps, which must be avoided, and it would also ruin the natural contour of the head, lapping in any other direction which isn't the tape running one)... etc...
Of course, a properly done lapping job will restore the heads just nicely... but a single mistake will ruin them for good... so, be very careful if you think to go on this route by yourself. ;)
 
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J!m

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#25
Thanks, Vince. I'm not pulling the heads as I have no way to properly re-align them. They will stay. I'll try other cleaners and then ignore the problem.

And Chris: that manual you sent me is far more complete! I don't see any tolerance specs on anything (unlike Sony for example), but it MUCH better than what I had. Thank you!
 

J!m

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#26
So, I’ve been busy scrubbing filth off this thing. I took the cover off the transport (plate behind the tape) and found the second belt… well the sticky remains of it anyway. What is the purpose? Just a back tension for when FF is stopped?

IMG_2252.jpeg

It goes between the supply reel table and the ratchet wheel on the left. When the heads come up, the lever engages pawl of the wheel.
 

20tajk7

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#27
Yes it's the back tension belt, when broken the deck will randomly eat tapes.
I use Ø27x1.0mm square belt for replacement.
The left pinch roller looks badly cracked.
 

J!m

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#28
Yes it’s cracked but only on the edge… the entire roller assembly should be changed but I can’t find any parts. The roller alone was not replaced individually, same as the old Kenwood.

That belt should be in the kit I ordered but if not or it’s wrong I know what to get.
 

vince666

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#29
Thanks, Vince. I'm not pulling the heads as I have no way to properly re-align them. They will stay. I'll try other cleaners and then ignore the problem.
realigning properly is another point I didn't mention (or that I had taken for granted)... anyways, if the head has the simple 2 screws plate where one screw is fixed and only the azimuth screw is spring loaded, the head height and tilt angle are just automatic and, since the holes on the head plate are always slightly larger than the screws so that you have some play, you only have to get the head horizontal, at the right left-right place and set the right penetration, which is easier to do with a gauge but it's not impossible to do it without and, last, you have to align the azimuth as usual with a test tape.
But if the head plate has 3 screws, they all would be spring loaded, then without an alignment gauge it's simply impossible to get it right on anything.

point is that kind of corrosion might be nicely removed only "mechanically", then with something abrasive which polishes the head surface...
or, more simply, wait for the tape to slowly do this kind of work on the tape-head contact zone, which is the easiest and safest option... after all, outside of the tape-head contact zone, the problem is only cosmetic and it won't affect the performance.

Go figure... lately, I happened to replace heads on a couple 2-heads decks, then heads with 2-screws plate with only the azimuth one spring loaded, but the replacement heads (being NOS but VEEERY old) had different mounting geometry and I had to enlarge the hole and the slot on the head plate, otherwise it was placed just wrongly... of course, without an alignment gauge it was difficult to realize the head was out of place and impossible to place it right, especially after working on the head plate and then getting huge plays with the screws... so, it you happen to have to work on heads more times, a gauge is just a must have tool.
 

J!m

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#32
Worth a shot.

It sounds okay so I guess it’s not in the tape path but it looks nasty.

Those rusty pins are rivières to the plate I think. Might have to get creative with cleaning them.
 

Chris Cables

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#33
If this deck was on my to-do list Jim, well tbh it wouldn't be- it's too far-gone and corroded for my liking, but if I was going to tackle something with this level of internal corrosion I'd be considering stripping it down completely as the idea of any particles or bits of contaminant/rust/corrosion making its' way into any part of the tape path and spoiling precious tapes would fill me with dread and anxiety.

The transport should come apart easily enough, but those springs especially are eventually going to release crud you didn't manage to extricate in the first place.
A sonic bath will help rid all the non-electrical parts of the brown stuff.
 

J!m

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#40
So, those Cratex sticks I use are the Aerospace version of the "pen eraser" with grit (Tungsten Carbide) embedded in the rubber.

The advantage is that the Cratex is extremely consistent, so pick a color (grit size) and it's always the same.
 
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