My First Phase Linear Restore- New Guy to the Forum

premiumplus said:
I never found a solder sucker that worked as well as good solder wick does...but then again, I haven't looked at solder suckers in 10 years either.
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Some rework hints:

If you intend to change the Backplane boards from one configuration to the other, make sure that the component leads you solder in are straight and NOT FLARED on the backside of the board. Flaring the leads will make it a bear to remove them. The Backplane boards have huge thermal mass on purpose because they need very large copper planes to carry the currents produced by this amp in driving the load. As a result of all that copper plane, it takes a good temperature controlled iron to make good solder joints for the connections into these planes. The boards are designed with no thermal reliefs around the vias on purpose in order to drive inductance and resistance of the amp connections to the minimum possible.

If you do not flare the leads, you should be able to rework your connections later on. It is also easier to sacrifice the component to be removed rather than salvage it. Cut the leads off at the body of the component leaving enough of a lead stub to grab it with a pair of tweezers. Apply heat carefully and once the solder is molten, grab the lead stub with the tweezers and extract it. It is always easier to remove a single lead, unattached to a component than to remove leads that are still attached to a component. Unless it is a very high value component, the board is ALWAYS more important than the component (this is close to rule #1). After you have the lead out of the hole, it will be much easier to clear the hole with a solder sucker or solder wick than with a component lead still in the hole.
 
Never thought of cutting the component away from it's leads and then just pulling the lead....DAYAM....learn something new everyday. Perhaps it's time for a " Tricks I've learned that saved my ass thread"" ??
 
Whenever I replace a dual in line DIP package or similar, I take my pointy dykes and cut each lead at the body of the part, chuck the part and then extract each lead. Generally when you heat each lead it will stick to the tip of the iron due to surface tension of the solder so you do not even need to use tweezers. Then I just wipe the tip on the solder sponge to eject the scrap component lead and move onto the next lead. Quite a fast process.

Then I flip the board on its side in my Panavise so the plane of the board is vertical. I put the sucker on one side of the board and the iron on the other side, heat the solder and pull the trigger on the sucker.

It is very gentle on the board compared to trying to heat and suck from the same side of the board. Good for delicate boards.
 
Michael F said:
Are you guys talking about through-plated pcb`s?
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Yes Mike, as double sided or multi-layer boards with plated through vias are the most typical.

The hints and tricks also apply to single sided boards though.
 
Gepetto said:
Yes Mike, as double sided or multi-layer boards with plated through vias are the most typical.

The hints and tricks also apply to single sided boards though.
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Thought so. I used those methods replacing a couple of diodes on your meter board. That reminds me, I must update the meter thread I started :)
 
Still just 100 volt. I was browsing Mouser last night and Chemi-con's 32D series had a 20,000uf at 110 or 150 volt in the 2-1/2 X 4-5/8 size.
 
Their factory didn't fare to well during the tsunami, but I would think those problems are gone. Joe has had some issues with them during that period...
 
So, another case of getting what you paid for. I guess there is no getting around the CD caps Joe had mentioned. :sad2:
One might probably be better off with the OEM caps rather than take a chance with a subpar cap, they did last 40 years after all.
 
If Mouser has stock in them, NCC caps are fine. Watch out from other sources than authorized distributors. NCC caps are the most counterfeited ones out there.
 
I don't see that Mouser has any stock of Chemi-Con above 100V in the screw terminal type.
 
Not even that Lee. They have a 39KuF 100V in stock but too big to fit.

All the other listings just say no stock. There would be a minimum order and a lead time.

If we all worked to converge on a value and satisfied the minimum order and waited the lead time, we could get some good, properly rated caps.
 
Whats the minimum Joe?? I'm thinkin 20,000uf range at 120 . What do you think Joe?
 
No, sorry Lee. Not even that. The 2.5 x 4.125 has only 2 options, even if you want to wait.
 
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