My First Phase Linear Restore- New Guy to the Forum

mjstriker

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laatsch55 said:
Hookay, check the bias first chance ya get...
Click to expand...
Checked the bias today and I was sitting at close to 500mV on each channel. Adjusted each down to 400mV at it stayed pretty stable at that value. Haven't had a chance to hook it up to some speakers.

Don't really know if the bias being that high would be an issue but at least now it is back to spec per manual. Any suggestions on a good value to adjust to? I assumed 400mV was better seeing as the manual says adjust closer to 300mV would give you higher distortion albeit less heat production
 
laatsch55

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If you think a 400 wakes those D-9's up, wait till ya throw a 700 on em, my goodness...
 
mjstriker

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laatsch55 said:
If you think a 400 wakes those D-9's up, wait till ya throw a 700 on em, my goodness...
Click to expand...
That is definitely in the works. My Dad has a 700 powering 4 Bose 901's in his garage. Once I get the 400 all upgraded the plan is to get that unit over to the bench and see what kind of White Oak magic can be done to that beast. I have been reading some threads on 500 WPC which I am sure is crazy loud!!
 
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My Super K's love that kinda power. Long as it's clean, and it is. The 500 WPC is achievable with B voltages of over +/- 103 volts DC. Had one do 525 before clipping....
 
premiumplus

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laatsch55 said:
My Super K's love that kinda power. Long as it's clean, and it is. The 500 WPC is achievable with B voltages of over +/- 103 volts DC. Had one do 525 before clipping....
Click to expand...
Ahhh, that's music to my ears. The 700B I just got runs +/- 108. Should be pretty muscular, eh?
 
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Dave, no doubt that's a HOTTIE!!! I have a 400 transformer that Ed gave me, it's also 108.6+/-. The tranny winder was smokin some good shit that day...
 
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laatsch55 said:
Dave, no doubt that's a HOTTIE!!! I have a 400 transformer that Ed gave me, it's also 108.6+/-. The tranny winder was smokin some good shit that day...
Click to expand...
I went to the White Oak store today and was looking around. The logical next step is a Rev D board, and I've asked my wife and son to buy me a couple of them for Christmas. Is there a fully complementary option for the 700B? Do you use the PL-14 Rev D board for that, or is the change to full complimentary covered in the backplane board (which seems only available in the 400 model)? Also, I was looking for 700B main filter caps and didn't see any options. So many questions...
 
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I don't think a full comp 700B version is available yet? I thought just the 400
 
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premiumplus said:
I went to the White Oak store today and was looking around. The logical next step is a Rev D board, and I've asked my wife and son to buy me a couple of them for Christmas. Is there a fully complementary option for the 700B? Do you use the PL-14 Rev D board for that, or is the change to full complimentary covered in the backplane board (which seems only available in the 400 model)? Also, I was looking for 700B main filter caps and didn't see any options. So many questions...
Click to expand...

You'll want a Rev "D" board, that allows full comp operation. Joe is working on the backplane boards as we speak, don't know the timetable yet but I'd guess right after the first of the year. I've got 5- 700B's waiting for that day. Filter caps for the 700 are not available from Joe for the 700. They are not hard to get. Go to mouser or digi-key and check for uf available in the 2-1/2 X 4-5/8 to 4-3/4 range. Anything at 20,000uf and above will work justfine.
 
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Caps for PL700 - 150VDC

Mouser part number for PL700, 11KuF 150VDC

598-DCMX113U150CC2B

As Jer will attest, the 100V rated caps are a crap shoot. Bring paper towels...
 
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Michael F said:
$75 a piece :confused2: ouch.
Can a Rev C board be used in a comp version?
Click to expand...
Yes, ouch...

Yes on the RevC question with conditions Mike, Rev D provided the hooks for this to be done in a clean manner. RevC needs to be kludged to make this happen.
 
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Gepetto said:
Yes, ouch...

Yes on the RevC question with conditions Mike, Rev D provided the hooks for this to be done in a clean manner. RevC needs to be kludged to make this happen.
Click to expand...
Joe, am I right in assuming that the Rev D kit works either quasi-comp or full-comp?
I am doing one 700 and one 400. My family wants to buy the board kits for me for Christmas.
Can I use the Rev D boards in quasi-comp mode for both, then switch the backplane arrangement later to go full complimentary in the 400 only?
Need to clarify so they can order them for me.
 
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The RevD is truly ambidextrous in its ability to do either QC or FC. The PL400 backplane board are ambidextrous as well although once committed are more difficult to convert (8 jumpers per board and 4 transistors per board have to be swapped)
 
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And a few components on the driver have to be added and subtracted, namely C18, D13. Maybe an hours work total Dave once you have the boards where you can get to the component side. Not that difficult if you have a decent solder sucker. I have noticed while working two sided boards, desolder the components while gently pulling then go back with the solder sucker and clean the holes. While trying to remove all the solder with the component still there it takes a lot more time and heat and could lead to trace lifting in extreme cases.
 
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premiumplus said:
Joe, am I right in assuming that the Rev D kit works either quasi-comp or full-comp?
I am doing one 700 and one 400. My family wants to buy the board kits for me for Christmas.
Can I use the Rev D boards in quasi-comp mode for both, then switch the backplane arrangement later to go full complimentary in the 400 only?
Need to clarify so they can order them for me.
Click to expand...
Attached is a rather lengthy (sorry) set of instructions and details about the build options on the backplane kit and the RevD control board.

View attachment Assembly Notes for PL400_Backplane_RevA PCB.pdf
 
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laatsch55 said:
And a few components on the driver have to be added and subtracted, namely C18, D13. Maybe an hours work total Dave once you have the boards where you can get to the component side. Not that difficult if you have a decent solder sucker. I have noticed while working two sided boards, desolder the components while gently pulling then go back with the solder sucker and clean the holes. While trying to remove all the solder with the component still there it takes a lot more time and heat and could lead to trace lifting in extreme cases.
Click to expand...
I never found a solder sucker that worked as well as good solder wick does...but then again, I haven't looked at solder suckers in 10 years either.
 
laatsch55

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I didn't like the offerings either so I built one out of a hospital room vacuum pump, 1/4" hose and an air nozzel turnesd backwards. Does 23" vacuum. most parts fall out before you can turn the board over, except those pesky two siders....
 
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